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There’s no substitute for listening yourself! At a dealer (Hallandale race track, Florida) the 20s sounded more “balanced”, but less “precise”, pardon the silly audiophile terms. If it’s your only set, or you listen to douf-douf, maybe get the 20s. Otherwise, add the 19, because your 18s are way more handsome than those little nuns. Yes, beauty matters, because none of the speakers at the dealership (including 5s at that time), reproduced, e.g. the timbre of a trombone or a brass ensemble better than what I already had! (I did succumb and buy a set of 18s later, at/for another location.)
From failing memory, there were two types. And the Beovision 11 used the second type. They can’t be swapped, just use stretch knit fabric to re-cover your original grille in the new color. P.S. Make sure the grille is firmly attached before letting go — I ripped one fabric corner open by having it fall off, onto the floor. [Edit: Maybe try to buy an old one? One such part # is 1605213, B&O calls that ‘BeoVision 10-46 Front Cover Silver'”]
After it is repaired, @beowillie suggested using the pins on the USB connector to drive a tiny heat sink fan internally — at half-voltage so it doesn’t make noise — and “strategically placing” it inside the case. He rather hand-waved verbally on the BeoTalk podcast as to where he shoved it, but apparently with the case open this was obvious?
60,000 Euros. That’s what I think. A hefty price increase of the 72-23 over the 72-22, not just from the 18s–>28s?
Steve, does your cable have ginger-colored cloth braided jacket?!?!
But @Die_Bogener (or the picture hosting service) does upload them here in a moderately high resolution: The example above is actually 1024 × 768 pixels.
Rather than clicking on the picture, control+click (or right-click) on it. Then, from the pop-up menu, do NOT choose a menu item starting with “Open Link in…”, but DO choose “Open image in…” menu item. (Approximate wording, depending on your browser.) Then you will see the image that was uploaded, rather than an image the website down-sized to fit in the running text width. Once you have a new window or tab with that image in it, it will be larger but maybe still reduced by your browser to fit — but then you should be able to click on it to see the full resolution, or save the file if your browser is unwilling to enlarge. Again, pic above should end up 1024 x 768.
Suggestion: If the manuals section had a list that was browse-able by any registered user, one could see whether a particular manual was available — if one paid for a Gold upgrade! (Not visible to un-logged-in users (or spiders), but directory listable to all Bronze&Silver.) It would be free advertising of the benefit Gold Membership brings! (N.B. I just resorted to scanning a (tiny:-) manual, because I couldn’t tell a newbie to upgrade and download it, with any certainty that it was even available.)
I couldn’t see if BeoWorld has the Floor Base 2119 manual online for Gold Members, so have uploaded it below. It does not carry a copyright notice, and besides it’s a protected use per 17 USC 107 anyway.
The tool that the bases came with! Or, any wide, flat, piece of steel. The long middle part of a typical cheap “church key” can opener with both rounded (bottle) and pointy (can) ends would work OK. The essential knowledge is that the nut will not be tightened beyond the point that a simple flat pry bar would run into the bolt and be bumped off. Getting the nut off is harder(*), and would require using two smaller flat-head screwdrivers held in a “cross grip”, like a plumber would do. (That’s if you don’t have the double-tipped tool. The mistake people often make, is trying using the double-tipped tool to tighten the nut — they bend the tool tips. You tighten with the flat part of the tool, which gives you more torque and won’t set the nut beyond the end of the bolt.)
[Edit: Such precision tightening requires the presence of the 2mm thick lock washer between the nut and the base plate. Your photo shows one, but if future searchers are DIY with no tool, maybe washers were missing too?]
* “That’s what she said.” (Sorry, been watching to much of the BeoTalk / BOTF bros.)
I’ll do a Gold Membership again if you actually get a service manual, and give it to Lee or Keith to scan! In the meantime, here’s a take-apart video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sF3mNfomxI (The Vietnamese subtitles and auto-translation are weak. Notice that he had already removed the antenna connectors and also taped up the metal surround for prying. It’s a 2nd-gen.) Last week on the BeoTalk stream, @Mikipedia mentioned the 3 bottom plastic covers break easily and @Beowillie confirmed, saying he kept spares in his parts stash.
Could It be possible to connect a Bluesound Node and use the hdmi output on that and connect to the Theater?
Nope, sorry. Node’s HDMI connector is for input only, from the eARC out of a TV.
Or an iFi Streamer and analog out and in on the usb-c using a dongle?
Again, I don’t see the point of stretching for a hi-res data stream, and then doing a conversion to analog in the source device, only to resample it back to digital at the input of the Theatre (later converting it back to analog again to drive the speakers).
The only other possibility I can imagine is if there are applications in the LG panel, or the AppleTV, for your hi-res music service, which can output to the eARC — that supports up to 24-bit 192-kHz. (Don’t forget to read the HDMI cable markings, because it needs 48 Gbps transmission bandwidth to send that.) Also bear in mind, if you use any of the self-calibration features of the Theatre or the TrueImage speaker steering, it’s going to muck around with your pristine digital data anyway!
E-mail blast to North America: code “PRIVATESALE23” offers 25% discount on “a selection of products.” But the only products discounted are Balance w/ Google Voice Assistant. Also available at dealers, thru May 22 or none left.
Also, not available online, but local dealers with leftover stock of Beoplay A9 4th Gen, Beosound 1, & Beosound 2 will be selling at “special offers” in stores. (Each of these but the BS2 has been offered at 25 or 30% off, long before their EOL now.)
[Edit: As of May 24, the offer was extended on A9 4th-gen black only, until they run out.] [Edit 2: As of May 29, amazon.com still has white A9 gen.4 for USD 2537.50, slightly lower than dealership prices for the remaining black ones.]
Probably a Mk.1. My Mk.2 says item no. 1665522. But it’s also easy to tell without guessing at decoding numbers: If your Beosound 1 were a Mk.2 the label on the bottom (line 2) would say, “Model: BeoSound 1 2nd generation”.
That extra D-to-A plus A-to-D resampling round-trip seems anathema, in the high-res world. Might one solution be acquiring an “old” Oppo UDP-205 for its jitter-eliminating secondary HDMI Audio-only port, and using it as the streamer, thus preserving the signal digitally, into one of the Theatre’s HDMI inputs? I don’t remember the issues vs. Roon-ready after all this time, but I thought this allowed hi-res all the way until the final renderer’s (Theatre’s) D-to-A?
Is there a recommended height range for the Theatre soundbar
When Geoff Martin was asked long ago about how BeoLab 18s could be located properly, given that the tweeter acoustic lens was not on a level with the listener’s ears, he said the crossover and sound profile had already been adjusted for a seated listener to get the most even frequency response. (I believe he even named a seating distance and a height measurement.) Your best course of installation would be to assume that the same has been done for the Theatre. Also, the Theatre is designed to calibrate itself based on you placing its microphone at your listening position, so — theoretically — it can make up for unevenness, in each channel individually.
Therefore, adjust the screen the best you can, so you aren’t craning your neck or slouching to get the maximum immersion, then let the Theatre do its work! Typically, that means mount your television so that in a seated position, the viewer’s eyes line up with the middle of the screen, then mount the Theatre hard up against the bottom edge, as the B&O stand does — that’s assuming it’s a LG G-panel or thinner and free-standing. Otherwise, mount it a few inches lower if a thicker screen blocks the drivers. The closer to the screen, the better the sense of location from the center channel,… BUT… for example, a Sonos soundbar recommends at least 4″ of distance so the upfiring drivers can radiate before reflecting off the screen, and also recommends at least 1 foot from the wall.
Does the Technical Sound Guide really not address this issue? May be ripe for a 0.1 edition!
works with the iPad Air 2, also
Good to know! Charging devices like the A3 (or A8 gen.1) [with 30->Lightning adapter] are the last hurrah for an iPad Air 2: Battery replacements are no longer available from Apple in the USA, and chain third-party repair centers (e.g. BatteriesPlus) can no longer order their franchise’s repair stock. Thus battery replacement is a DIY challenge from iFixIt.com (difficulty=High) unless you can find an independent repair tech who will take the liability of using “customer’s own materials.”
So run it on the A3 (or any charger) until the old battery bulges the screen, then dispose of it ASAP before the battery’s “foil sack” ruptures. [Edit: iPadOS 15.7.5 and latest Spotify 8.8.30 run OK.][Edit 2: iPadOS 15.7.7 released 6/21/2023. iFixIt battery DIY was a multi-hour tussle: lots of heating adhesive to loosen & twist out screen, motherboard, & battery. But it worked OK and no soldering was required.]
Can someone photograph or verify the wall wart that comes with an A5? Aren’t they the same USB-PD (“Power Delivery”) wall wart as the Level? See a previous thread questioning the Emerge using that same power supply and scroll down to the photo near the end to see what Level’s specs read: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/new-member-looking-to-add-an-emerge-to-my-collection/
USA & Canada, thru April 30: Beoplay H95, 25% off, dealer & website.
@Earle weiß, dass sein Level ohne GVA ist, weil er bei Amazon bestellt hat. Da Amazon Alexa herstellt, verkaufen sie keine Google Voice-Produkte.
Außerdem: (sollten) Sie in der Lage sein, dies zu erkennen, indem Sie den Mikrofonschalter ausschalten und das Gerät ausschalten. GVA-Produkte beschweren / “erinnern” Sie daran, sich beim Einschalten über das stummgeschaltete Mikrofon.[please pardon Bing Translate]
Apparently the Winter Park store is going from “soft opening” to “open hard”? Their invitation: “Ribbon Cutting on Thursday, April 13 at 11:15 and our Grand Opening weekend April 13-15! Come by and help us celebrate!”
Someone should take some pictures now that they have finished installing everything. Bear in mind that B&O asserts absolute editorial control over dealer’s postings, but anyone local could snap a few “unauthorized” shots for the rest of us lurking here…
I would measure the resistance of the good and the bad drivers to ensure they are approximately the same. Mere continuity could be anywhere between working and a dead short thru the coil or the wires rubbed against the frame, though you probably would have seen the latter. (N.B. Being a bear of very little brain, I hope someone else can suggest something more sophisticated.)
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