[trackbeo]

(1) To put a finer point on it, the Emerge is believed to be unavailable worldwide because some of the chips it uses are the same as could be put into more expensive products like the Level or the Balance. Even in Denmark, the black one cannot be ordered from the website, only the more expensive wood one — and even that availability is quoted as November! (2) Allegedly Canada imported its stock thru the USA, but even if not anymore, they still suffer the same availability (and pricing) issues. Emerge isn’t visible on the USA version of bang-olufsen.com, so that means Arvato Supply Chain Solutions isn’t shipping any to North America. If it were, I expect the more-expensive one (which will be the only one available, remember) to cost about CDN$ 1100! How is this possible?!?! Convert Euro/D.kr average price to USD, no discount despite no VAT, plus add an additional 10%. Convert that to CDN, plus add another 5%. Q.E.D. (3) Bummer about Toronto, really you can’t ask “the buyer” at Holt Renfrew, even if you could figure out who that was.

As to your potential Copenhagen airport buy, labelling is required by EU law: Just turn any unit over and look at the bottom, for something saying “INPUT ~ 100-240V.” But you don’t even need to ask a kiosk attendant: Despite claiming 60watt+30watt+30watt amplification, the Emerge power specs list a USB-C cable! This means a wall wart power supply, probably a 45-watt USB-PD (USB “Power Distribution” type) unit like comes with the Level. Its ~100-240 etching is almost invisible, but has international, slide-on, power prongs. Despite B&O intentionally not supplying multiple plugs, you’ll just add a simple adapter to the one they give you, no voltage converter needed. (Something like the “Kriëger” travel plug, US$ 6.) Even if I’m wrong and they ship some single-country wall wart, you can buy a USB-PD supply matching the same specs for the higher negotiated voltages. Just magnify the etchings & you’ll see. Good luck and let us all know how it works out!

[trackbeo]

— What location? (Generally I mean – I don’t want to snap up your bargain, I promise.)

— Is it for new orders or a for a showroom pair? (You’ll know: An April order for 18s in the USA wasn’t quoted delivery until June.) Showroom displays must be refreshed every year or two, so you’ll see an occasional discount from that.

In the USA March 1-April 30 there was a 15% reduction on Beolab 18/19/20/28, which diminished the 30% “U.S. stupidity fee.” (18s cost 29% more than EU prices incl. VAT! After recent price increases now only 23% extra.) After that sale… Beolab 20s were gone from the website/EOL. EOL on the 18s is always possible; maybe some marketing maven thinks the Beolab 28s are a better speaker than the 18s, and also pushes whole-line margins up? (Arguable whether a test tube & dog bowl can replace a pencil…)

But as design icons, I would expect that if 18s were going EOL, B&O would produce some unique “final edition”, like they did with the Beolab 5s. Maybe they’ll just update the electronics, which are dated, but still perfectly OK. So you wouldn’t really get shafted by that. But start with #2 above. Presumably you already did *ask* your dealer and got no answer?

[trackbeo]

Talking through my hat here, but that part *looks* like a mounting shock bumper: A narrow bolt/machine screw goes down into the whole thing thru the bottom (narrow) hole, tightening a flat metal washer which fits (stops at) the middle hole/shelf. Having now attached this bumper to the chassis, the top (largest) hole either supports a flat board that is affixed elsewise, or has an inverted screw on it, which slumps into the upper indent/saucer. Or invert it, if you have a screw fitting into an upper board or chassis part that rests on a base: it’s a rubber foot that can be firmly fitted to one item but without squishing the whole thing making it pointless. The key will be whether you also have an extra screw & washer lying around!?!

P.S. Just looked at your newer pic; not sure I would ever rest a mechanical part onto a (flexy) circuit board, thus agree with you that doesn’t look right.

[trackbeo]

In the USA, thru June 30, 2022, 20% off any one Beosound Level or Balance, using code “BESTSELLER20” at checkout from the website. Depending on which device & color, that’s $50-100 less than amazon.com sold them for, last year. Not as good as importing a Level from the U.K. last week, but if you were planning to buy (say) a white marble Balance anyway,…

(Note: The footnotes say the code is “unique to you” but it isn’t, of course. Also right now if you add a pair of items to your cart they both get discounted.)

[trackbeo]

No, the touch controls on, e.g. a BeoCenter 9500, worked perfectly! (As did those big-office-building elevator buttons — remember their NE-2 glowing glass rings? — back in the 1980s.) This is why I suspected something about powering down the keypad. Well, that combined with the fact that a powered-off “full sleep” Sonos Move loses almost 6% of its battery every day but the BeoSound 1 somehow only loses about 2%!

[trackbeo]

One of my Beosound 1 (2nd gen, non-GVA) is the fussiest touch-button in the house! I had suspected that sleep mode (even on AC), was powering down the “keyboard” until the motion sensor (which can be very-low-power) picked up something. This may be all in my mind, but one thing isn’t: It always takes at least 2 tries to start it up. And it’s fussy about a “full finger” press the second time, not too long, not too short, must be centered. Mine is flaky enough that I can’t tell for sure if it’s pressure-sensitive or just needs enough moist flesh to trigger a capacitance detection. It’s hokey — and maybe yours just needs to be returned under warranty — but lick your finger, turn around three times, click your heels together, and try again. Once mine is running, the swipe functions work fine… but getting that first LED lit and the “boop” play sound takes multiple tries.

[trackbeo]

pepps wrote:

Orphan Black (Beogram 2000 (I think))

Wait, there’s some mind-blowing production work to get 4 clones in a dance party together, and you’re looking at… the turntable?!?! See the clip, from Season 2 final episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsTc_o5ixU8 and the reveal edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XE2u_N8g6cs

[trackbeo]

Not to mention, how else to record the FM-Simulcast onto the VCR audio track? ? ?

[trackbeo]

Just to confirm, @MM is correct as usual: using the “Aux Link” (as it was called in the MCL2 days) had various features, but two of them were: “Sound from the Radio, CD Player, video tape recorder, or turntable thru the TV speakers.” & “Sound from the TV or video tape recorder thru the audio system speakers.”

[trackbeo]

Kiran wrote:

Trackbeo, so can I use this as Line Out to the core? All I want to do is select Line In on the Core and then control the Beomaster stack with the Beolink 7000.

I don’t own a Core, so not sure of which pin-to-pin cable… But solely regarding audio signals supplied and received, yes, that should work. Using the Beolink 7000 to drive the Beosystem as an (unknown type, non-integrated) “auxiliary source” will certainly work. But that’s what I meant about “remote control and proper Core integration” — using two remotes is fine but maybe someone with more experience has a B&O integrated solution? For example, my understanding is that the DataLink connector for Tape2 is capable of powering up the system — that’s how the “play” button on Tape1 or CD7000 fires up the main unit. But is there some way that the Core could trigger this? I dunno.

[trackbeo]

You can use that Line-In/Out port, but then the Beomaster will not play anything thru its own amplifier. That existing clear plastic plug is a crossover, output-to-input. (I used that jack to loop in an equalizer.) I don’t know about selecting sources with the remote control and proper Core integration, but would use the output pins on the Tape2 connector to get a line-level output (which is always supplied). That way no surprises when someone plugs passive speakers into the Beomaster and it “doesn’t work”!

[trackbeo]

For dullards like me to whom this is not obvious, by “screws at the bottom” @Beoaddict means “at the bottom edge of the rear panel,” and “flip over” means “…so it is resting on its rear panel on your floor/bed/…” The service manual instead assumes you have a service stand holding the TV upright, so you would be sliding the front glass/frame assembly up vertically. (I’m pretty sure it was available here, to gold members? Anyway, it’s board-level service only.) Here are the screw locations.

[trackbeo]

Suggestion: Name your carrier & location, and the CPE model number. Thus someone knows if their experience might be helpful to you.

An experiment you could try is substituting an old bell ringer phone, or even a moderately-old AT&T slimline. Does that work? Then parallel it with your Beoline. Does that work? “Their end not mine drops the call” implies that something on your end is picking up and immediately hanging up, though it’s not clear where in the chain that something is. A DSL filter added should both be unnecessary anymore, and should make no difference, which it doesn’t, so that’s good at least.

[trackbeo]

@LeMirage, you may already have tried this, but the typical response for certain “other” wireless music systems (coughSonosSneeze) is to assign static IP addresses in your Wi-Fi router for each and every system component, and move its DHCP base address higher than any of them. (And reboot everything afterward, plus make sure you have not assigned the same static IP addresses to anything else, of course.)

This absolutely should not be necessary — but consumer residential router firmware is sometimes as buggy as B&O’s. Especially across single devices being unplugged or the internet connectivity going down temporarily, this kind of thing “just happens”. It’s a pain, and you don’t know if it did any good until days later, but it’s worth a try.

[trackbeo]

Martin’s list of units that take his newly manufactured feet.

[Edit: Ooops, sorry, his are for BeoGRAM 9000/9500/etc/etc/etc. not the Systems.]

[trackbeo]

From “Open House NYC”, March 6, 2022: the apartment of celebrity hairstylist Frederic Fekkai. BeoLabs are 8002 even though you can’t see the LED. The Beolink Eye is unnecessarily center-mounted, forcing the TV even higher up above the fireplace, and the Beocenter 2 is… oops.

[trackbeo]

If you PM me I’ll pass along Willie’s e-mail address, and you can ask him to post here, maybe? Or if you have the stomach for it, review old BeoTalk casts at chipmunk-speed on YouTube (pre-#150), or maybe e-mail its host (also PM) to ask which one.

What I recall was that Willie pulled the USB voltage off the interior of the connector to a fan on the case back or bottom, not board mounted — which would draw air past the offending video engine chip. He wanted some brand fan (Noctua?), but had to go with something smaller (and/or thinner?) because the full sized one wouldn’t fit. Then it was too loud, so he soldered in a couple resistors to tap the lower voltage. Sorry I don’t have that TV so I didn’t really follow where exactly he mounted it.

Or maybe you could join next Sunday’s BeoTalk chat and ask (or throw them a couple bucks of so-called “superchat”) and we can all listen to the details again. Good luck!

[trackbeo]

At least 5 of those colors were auctioned off at Sotheby’s:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/five-reasons-these-super-rare-beosound-1-wireless-speakers-are-so-desirable

There was a thread about it:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.ouronlineserver.com/forums/p/33354/250756.aspx

[trackbeo]

[Pardon me for interjecting, kindly ignore if I got this wrong…] Your suggestion is helpful @BeoFrederic, but… ¡¡¡Noooo!!! (Please, please no.;-) The very idea of switching over to a VNC app in order to choose an item out of a list in the Mac UI, then switch back to the Audirvana app (Audirvana Remote?), is completely off-putting — and iTunes (now Music.app) doesn’t need it. If it were needed, that pretty much disqualifies Audirvana for casual multi-room use. At that point one might as well stay in the VNC app and just drive the Mac Audirvana directly. (Spoken as someone who has done just that with Windows iTunes and Microsoft Remote Desktop Connection. Too 20th-century, to my eternal shame and horror but it was so cool in the day, viz🙂

 

[trackbeo]

Relays clicking, the sound of motors whirring (that’s the doors), and a final relay clack are all good signs when power is applied. Next is basic CPU working at all, and ribbon cables connected, so: Does the little red dot in the upper right display show up? Do any of the buttons work? I.e. “Load Tape” & “Load CD” ought to whir the motors even if the doors are frozen shut. And “Sound” button ought to make the upper display show “Volume” and lower display show arrows lower left. Any of that? This much functionality is required before playing or amplifying anything. I don’t know enough to walk you all the way thru, but “does not work” is pretty broad. So maybe with these three answers or a few more details, others with more experience can make good guesses…

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