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Hi suhy2, according the MCP 6500 manual, you need to press SET, to store the settings you want it to start with:
Hope this helps.
Johan
A little update of some of today’s tinkering: I found a left alone Airport Express that I connected to the optical input of the Core. Its only role is Airplay. In the BLC driving the main Masterlink network I assigned the A.AUX command to Optical of the Core. It is a command that is also available on older remotes, which is the reason why it is easier for me to use than using Airplay of the Core. System looks like this now:
I added the option settings of all the equipment too (for me to remember them ha).
Merry Christmas all!
Johan
Hi, my usage of the app is on an iPad and a Samsung phone, actually only for selecting music from my DLNA library. Switching the (MasterLink) system on, volume control, changing radio station etc. I do mostly with remotes and/or the buttons of an IR eye (kitchen).
Interesting to see some of you dedicate a phone/tablet, even mounted in a fixed place. Somewhat like a BS5 or moment.
Johan
From the B&O website (where you might expect some B&O products :-)), there is something strange going on in the beautiful home of Malene and Nikolaj. https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/nl/story/sounds-like-home-malene-and-nikolaj. In the video, at the end, the BG4000 is spinning backward! Does it need a fix? Are they trying to find hidden messages? Probably the editor prioritizing aesthetics.
Hello Hockey44,
You can run either PowerLink, Masterlink or Network Link over regular in wall Cat7 S/FTP solid wire ethernet cables. Check also the handbooks mentioned top right on this site.
You can terminate such cables using RJ45 keystones in standard wall (or floor) outlets at all places where you need such a connection. And only there use an adapter cable (when needed), like an off the shelf RJ45 to 8pin DIN (for BL3 or BL9) or custommade RJ45 to ML for the BS9000. You could even make custom RJ45 to mini jack adapter cables for the BL5 volume syncing connection if at all needed. This would mean that you can install very standard cabling, but use it very specifically for your (heritage) B&O equipment. The other advantage is that normal diameter tubing can be used as you do not need to pull (large) connectors through them. Normally the wall outlets (at least here in the Netherlands) can hold 2 tubes and two keystones each, the mounting plate for the keystones looking like this:
Apart from the mini jack cables I use all of the above connections. Example of the kitchen BL4000:
For the digital coax connection to the BL5s there are S/PDIF coax keystones too, allowing to pull coax cables without connectors. Again standard cabling.
In my mind it would be most elegant to use a central utility room to connect all the cables. In that room, the CAT7 cables can be terminated in a (clearly labelled) patch panel, ready to be used for a specific purpose. It will keep a lot of the inevitable cable clutter out of sight. Maybe even your streamer. And to some extent you can call it future proof as you can use the CAT7 cables when you upgrade, even your LAN, and the conducts allow for pulling other types of cables if ever needed. I must mention that some people will say that this use of a central utility room will give more connections in an even longer signal path, but my eyes are better than my ears :-).For all places where you could want to place a speaker (no Atmos plans?) I would advise to: a.) make power available, and b.) run two conducts to the central utility room (in most use cases you will need one tube only with CAT7, for the BL 5s 2 conducts is best: one for digital audio coax, one potentially for the volume leveling connection if required).
For all places where you could want to place a TV or other AV equipment, I would advise to run more conducts to the central utility room: for Ethernet 2x (TV & e.g. Apple TV), (for Masterlink?) and best one per two of the potentially connected surround sound speakers (note that it is not easy to pull 2 CAT7 cables through a standard tube, Dutch ones at least), the good thing is that one PowerLink cable carries the signals for two speakers (like L&R).
For the places where you want to place the BS9000, best is to have (next to power) two conducts with CAT7 cabling, one for potential use of MasterLink, one or two for PowerLink, and one for the digital coax out if required.
To connect everything you will need someone that understands the B&O BeoLink logic, (maybe make) some specific cables, perhaps a few PowerLink splitters.
I think you will get my general advice: bring power and sufficient conducts to the places where you want speakers or AV equipment, and tie it all together in a utility room.
Hope this helps a bit! Best of luck, let us know how you get on. When you are not up to doing all this yourself, best is like MM says, to find a good B&O installer to make the plan and do the installation. Perhaps someone here in the UK can give you advice on that. I doubt it will be cheap, as nothing is with B&O, but at least it should be good value.
Regards, Johan
Hello McRib,
The frames are made of plastic. See also this thread (where I posted some pictures of me putting new cloth on). https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/changing-cloth-on-beolab-8000-instructions/
I would say that it will not be easy to make the flanges and the top part align perfectly as on some (stock) images, especially when redone.
The original cloth was welded to the frames. Mine are not 100% flush. The flanges stick out a bit. I think it is because of the added thickness of cloth and tape. Still they are now much better than before!
Regards,
Johan
