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It should be attached with some pretty strong adhesive if I remember correctly.
I never experienced it as well.
Was the remote stored/placed directly in the sun or got exposed to high temperatures in some way?Hi. There was no problem with the installation. The question is specifically about the switch next to the connector for the external microphone. This switch is marked by a microphone symbol and when switched to one position a red LED next to the switch is lighting up. What is the function of this switch?
I’m pretty sure the switch turn off all the microphones also internal. The LED is determined by the state of HW mute (switch) and SW mute (APP setting)
HW not mute AND SW not mute -> LED white
HW not mute AND SW mute -> LED red
HW mute AND SW mute -> LED off
HW mute AND SW not mute -> LED offWhat exactly is “software mute” and how and where is it effected?
It’s basically the same feature but the implementation is different. Software mute just turn off the microphones through software where my guess is HW mute physically disconnect the microphone input.
I also found out how to switch SW mute on/off and it wasn’t in the APP it’s by long pressing the microphone button on the top UI.
i fiddled around with the BST and now there’s a red microphone logo LED on. Not sure what I did or how to disable it(?)
If I remember correctly then the red microphone LED is when software mute is enabled. There should be a setting somewhere in the APP. Else you can turn off the LED completely by using the physical mute switch in front of the BST (behind the front cover).
Thank you for that.
I just ripped out a Sonos system and there was no audio delays for this same type of scenario. I wonder if there is something Sonos has patented that B&O can’t replicate…
A couple more questions if I may:
Is there a switch or some device that allows me to keep my Core and still benefit from directly connecting the BST to the beoamp2? Such as a device from Almando.
Is the speaker group/listening position configurable from the B&O app or has to be selected configured from the B&O remote? (and yes, my kitchen and living room are in the same space as right now I hear an echo when using multiroom)
For the Theatre, having lip sync was more important than keeping multiroom in sync. You could try and turn down the Beolink multiroom latency and preferable connect your setup to Ethernet for lowest latency. But I fear it will never be perfect until B&O have decided to implement a switch between lip sync and multiroom sync or something similar.
Hmm… Can you record it and share it?
My BT is connected to BL9s, and there is the occasional humming noise that is driving me crazy. I shift the power cables or PL cables a little and it disappears for awhile, but always comes back again. Would be grateful for any help.
What kind of Powerlink cables are you using? It is known if you use an unofficial cable without proper shielding the Powerlink data telegrams can cause periodic noise.
Received the update 3.2.1 yesterday. Sound volume from TV has decreased drastically. Normal listening volume was around 50, now I have to crank it up to 55!! Switching between channels causes audio loss! Sometimes no sound at all. In other words, drama. Anyone else with the same problems?
Hi Marc,
Can you describe your setup? Are your external speakers connected via Wisa or Powerlink?
Also what formats are you listening to? Dolby Digital, ATMOS or PCM? Or is the volume decreased on all formats?I don’t believe that the BLI integration issue is the fault of Khimo. In the B&O app there should be an option to select the BLI from a list of B&O devices on the network. That is not present.
To my knowledge the B&O app can’t do anything with a BLI. Is it the BeoLiving app you’re using? That’s also Khimo who’s the owner. So it could be they have only updated the BLI device and not their app yet 🙂
Khimo has otherwise fully integrated the Theatre in the BLI. I have even been able to play albums through the Theatre using the secret hidden system in BLI that starts playing a vinyl record album as soon as I place it on a stand. However, this involves the daunting task of editing about 300 macros that I’ve created for my entire vinyl record album collection.
Sounds like a cool project though 😉
Separate satellite box. Connected to Theatre. PUC control.
Okay, does the satellite box itself turn on? Or is it both that doesn’t turn on?
Is it possible for you to provide the brand and model? 🙂It is a very weird problem. It is a G2 panel. The problem only occurs when wanting to turn on satellite. It is not present with any other sources, the sources built in to the G2 turn on promptly. Sometimes when turning it on, the audio comes on briefly, then stops, then the audio and picture both come on.
Satellite is that with the built in tuner or do you have a separate box? If it’s a box do you control it over CEC or PUC? Because almost all the set top boxes I tried they have limited (only on/off) or none CEC support. Have you connected it in the Theatre or the TV itself? 🙂
I still haven’t received the update on this side of the pond. The two big issues I’m hoping it might fix are (1)allowing us to use speakers connected via Wisa with Beoreceiver 1 and (2) fixing the issue of the Theatre not powering on the LG TV. I’ve been finding that I keep seeing the message in the app to integrate the LG TV even after I have done that.
2) Is it even after a “factory reset” + setup of B&O app? Or is it only some devices/apps that it can’t turn on?
Geoff’s explanation makes sense about how Dolby Atmos could be a reason for a change needed in the volume level. I had never been able to use Dolby Atmos with B&O before the Theatre. I just do REALLY hope that the True Image upmixing will be fixed to allow MORE Beolabs beyond the 7.1.4. The whole point of True Image upmixing seemed to be allowing more B&O speakers to fill out the soundstage. Yet, now we’ve actually LOST speaker roles that were previously allowed in the Beosystem 4.
Also, an explanation for why we can’t use the side front-firing speakers of the Theatre to add to the center channel role would be really welcome. Is it because the sound signals would interfere with the middle speaker?? It would just be nice to have an explanation so that we don’t see this as just an oversight or flaw in the software programming.
If the Theatre at least had support to forward LIGHT/CONTROL signals to the BLI I could program a macro to let me turn on the LG TV. I paid $3000 more for an LG C2 for the very purpose of having a seamless integration with the TV!
LIGHT/CONTROL should be forwarded to BLI the same way as all the mozart based devices. So it could be khimo, the creator and maintainer of BLI, that have missed it when adding support for the Theatre. I can see apparently khimo wants an extra fee for PRO which is required for LIGHT/CONTROL macro triggers in general (BLI – doc). Do you have PRO?
I really hope there will be some Home Assistant support. So you don’t have to pay multiple times for the same device 🙂
Also, I’ve found that not only does the Theatre not show up in the Moment to use its speakers, but also I can’t even JOIN what’s playing on the Moment with the Theatre.
Do you have any other Mozart based B&O speakers that also don’t show up in the Moment or is it only the Theatre that doesn’t?
I don’t think you’re quite understanding We need to indicated in the B&O app (or via a direct web browser interface such as for the NL/ML Converter) which device is the home automation hub that we’re directing any B&O device to forward LIGHT/CONTROL commands to. Otherwise, the B&O device does not know where to forward the LIGHT/CONTROL commands to. For example, we could have multiple BLI or BLGW units on a particular network. Therefore, the B&O device needs to know which hub to use. This is done through the B&O app or web interface for each and every device. It’s not done through Khimo’s app.
Ahh that’s because I have mostly experience with newer Mozart devices. Mozart devices doesn’t need to know who to send LIGHT/CONTROL commands to. But it’s the BLI (I don’t know about BLGW sorry) that needs to attach/listen to the Mozart device. So you should only need to do configuration on the BLI itself 🙂
So if I use a hdmi 2.1 cable from the Nvidia to the Theatre using Hdmi A, can I get Dolby Atmos or not?
Yes if the Nvidia and the content it’s playing support Atmos. The Theatre will extract it directly from the HDMI stream, so no need for eARC in your case 🙂
Guys, I connected my Nvidia Shield to the Theatre using Hdmi A. Is that a Earc connection or not?
Just to answer your original question no it’s not an eARC connection. The eARC HDMI port on the Theatre is only on the HDMI out port.
Some devices have something called eARC passthrough where the input port also have eARC but this doesn’t really make sense for the Theatre because that would mean using another audio system which kinda defeat the purpose of a soundbar 🙂
I just read that it only has 1 eArc connection!!
Is it possible to choose the eArc connection for the Nvidia and Hdmi A for TV?
eARC doesn’t work like that. The ARC stands for Audio Return Channel and is used between TV and an AVR (Theatre in your case). And the “e” stands for “Enhanced” Audio Return Channel.
So eARC is only useful if you want sound to go in the opposite direction of the normal HDMI signal flow. Source (Shield) -> AVR (Theatre) -> TV
So:
Normal (video and audio): Source -> AVR -> TV
eARC (audio only): AVR <- TVNote eARC can coexist so you can get video and audio one direction and audio the other direction.
Hope it helps 🙂
My Theatre was delivered on Friday and i hooked it up with my Beolab 90’s cabled via Powerlink. I also borrowed a BS Core for testing and paired it to the BL90’s and the Theatre. Now the Theatre won’t recognize the PL-Connection automatically … looks like a software bug. If i want to watch TV i have to choose wireless mode for the BL90’s via Beo-App … switching to music via Core using the BL90’s only requires interaction with the app again, in order to switch back to Powerlink input again manually. Any ideas? Could be my faulty work, too of course. Cheers Tom
What is the benefit of adding the core?
The Theatre already has Mozart so it can be a music system as well. I don’t have a BS Core so I don’t know if the old ASE platform still has some tricks up its sleeve 🙂
… wireless has restricted/less resolution.
I might have missed something, but can’t you just connect the Beolap 90’s with powerlink to your Theatre? Or is it because you want optical or similar instead? 🙂
I wanted to use the BS Core for listening to music (only) through a dedicated source/transport. When i listened to BL90’s in the B&O store using a BV Harmony compared to using a budget Bluesound Vault2 directly feeding the BL90’s via coax the same day, it sounded better without the TV in the chain.
That’s why i wanted to try the Core. TV and movies is not my priority with the BL90’s … for me it is 90% stereo music, und 10% surround music playing live concerts etc.. What would you suggest in order to exploit the best sound possible out of the BL90’s in stereo and alternatively in a 5.1 or 5.2 setup? I would think, that the BL90’s should benefit from a decent source feeding them.
You should be able to setup a listening position on your Theatre with only the Beolab 90, then you have a B90 only stereo setup with the Theatre acting like a Mozart “BS Core” 🙂
3) I think only the C2 and G2 Panels are supported. With LG, you need to download the B&O LG App to enable remote control via BR1. I dont know if this LG app is compatible with the CX. But you can test this now I think?
Found CX, C1, C2, GX, G1 and G2 are supported source 🙂
4a) the way the Beoapp seems to work is you can add 4 sets of wired speakers and I think 4 pairs of WISA speakers. When I do a quick test to do a new wired speaker config with a BL2 first, I can add only 1 BL90 to the BL2. I cant add a pair. So I imagine you use 1 of 4 connections adding a subwoofer.
4b) When you add a speaker, you add to that speaker 1 extra unit. This can be identical model, a different model (i.e. BL90 – Front Left and BL3 – Front Right) or it can be solo (just a Bl90 Front left)You should be able to add 8 single channels but my guess is BL90 and BL50 is always a pair. Thus occupying both left and right channel. A single subwoofer should only occupy one channel 🙂
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