[NQVHNWI]

Well found. Thank you

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Hi,

IIRC, (50:50) the BV10 has only an SPDif Input. No audio digital ouptput. Thus, the BL5s can only be fed via powerlink.

If you are using the BV10 as a Master and have say a BeoSound5 in the setup via Masterlink, then you can connect the BS5 SPdif output to the BL5. However, you will still need to connect the powerlink from the BV10 to BS5 for volume control.

I was never convinced, but you can also continue the SPDif/Coax out of the BL5 to the BV10 SPDif input in a closed loop. This in theory should give optimal sound from the BS5/BV10 if you choose (for any bizarre reason) through the centre channel.

As above. 50:50. You may want to ask a friend for an alternative answer.

[NQVHNWI]

Hi,

I think you are in a territory not many Beoworlder have wide experience of. i.e the combination non-B&O TV with current SOTA actives loudspeakers, and passives with separate amplification.

Some of my points…

1. Subwoofer. Can add this later. If you are pre-wiring in a build, wire in for a sub.

2. We suspect that B&O will release a new sound bar in September. It is suspected that it may be a Beovision Eclipse sound bar of sorts with pluggable external loudspeakers and 5.1 processing. If true, this would simplify your whole home theatre approach…..

[NQVHNWI]

Motivated by other Users photos, I decided to get my Beogram wired and fired into the circuit.

Let It Bleed. Rolling Stones on 33.

Beogram 8002, MMC2

Pro-Ject Phono Box E BT 5 Wireless Transmitter/Phono Amp

Beosound Essence MK2

Beolab 3

 

I wont say Wow…but “how quaint”.

 

[NQVHNWI]

All,

Reading this, I would add my two cents.

The OP is asking for help. The OP has a B&O related product which is not B&O but can help renovate older B&O products…which frankly is what is most of the patrons of this site do. If we were all into new gear, Im sure B&O would have a share price more like Apples SP.

This site is great at hitting itself in the face. It is very difficult to “chat” with the right person (who are the moderators? who are the decision makers?) I dont know.

I see the initial post as a reach-out and some people have tried to help. There has been some very short-sighted interactions here Im afraid and participants are more interested to over-control, rather than let the forum flow naturally. And frankly, since the new forum…this place is dead in terms of footfall. We need to be more open and dynamic so we can all enjoy more participation.

Im sure that if the OP can up his business, and get the contacts they are enquiring about to help their business (and our older equipment more functional), they may well become “future donors” to Beoworld.

Short-sighted.

[NQVHNWI]

I would comment with all due respect, that there is a fraternity of people out there who like to compare the DAC chips against one another. Some DAC chips are deemed good, other less so. This of course is your prerogative. I recall that the DAC is a Burr-Brown (circa 2003 vintage) and would likely not have been revised in that time.

In my opinion, B&O tend to make products with mainstream quality components rather than rely on “moon-cheese unobtainium rare specialty components”.

I would also say in my opinion what you are doing is at best unwise, and perhaps at worse, wont work(??). The BL5 is essentially an all-in-one digital active loudspeaker. loudspeaker, digital amplification, DSP and ADC/DAC are all incorporated withing the chassis.

I do not think you can bypass the internal DACs because of this. Line-in and Powerlink (essentially the same bar a few voltage differences) are analogue and will have been generated via another external DAC. The SPDif input may bypass the the ADC by definition, but will still have to go through the central processor and internal DAC.

Finally, I would say listen to the final output. Are you happy with the sound of the music? i.e. don’t listen to the DAC as the be-all and end-all.

Attached BL5 Process schematic.

[NQVHNWI]

No idea why but B&O have ensured that both the cars have an old EoL 13 speaker Beosound system in the cockpit and all the amps and DSP in the nose cone.

Apparently, it’s a really rocking sound over that 13000rpm engine. Unfortunately, the added 40kg is probably why the car is a little off-pace and at the back of the grid again.

Fans on the home straight can really appreciate the clarity and neutral sound of the Beosound playing radio 4 and have apparently a longer listen time than other vehicles using the track at the same time.

[NQVHNWI]

I dont know if Im teaching you anything. Im very rusty on this kind of thing and being on B&O Actives all my adult life, Amps, Ohms and Impedence (imaginary component of resistance and reactance) is something I’ve never bothered about.

I may be wrong…..

1. An Amp only delivers as much power as the work you give it. If the “work” required is too much, the amp cannot supply enough power (its the opposite as we normally see it).
2. Impedance is internal resistance of a loudspeaker driver (voice coil?). Difficult to drive units are I believe either heavy, big, or rigid diaphragms. There is a lot of “work” to be done to move a unit and overcome inertia and change in acceleration (direction of drive).
3. Monkey-coffin loudspeaker and amp manufacturers try to standardise a simple equation (Power, resistance, sensitivity) to give the average punter an idea of what they can buy combination-wise. I would assume that If your in the market for the wilson XVX, you would likely be in the marker for several very-high-powered, very high quality amplifiers.

No idea if this helps or its just telling you what you already know but it gave me 5minutes to think about it.

Flame me if Im wrong on the physics?

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Millemissen wrote:

@trackbeo This is not about ….First. This is about avoiding multiple threads about the same subject. By the way – this doesn’t even deserve multiple threads IMO MM

Yes. Because this Board needs to cut down on threads, topics, Posters and comment turnover!

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But the light grey bars in the centre have low-res writing and suggests possibly LAN connections and PL (x2)???

[NQVHNWI]

So just looking at the available detail.

1. The 88″ is 2 x 6cm than the 83″. Slightly wider soundbar frame and grille each side.
2. Internals on the 88″ and 83″ are probably the same,
3. The Lift is the same
4. 83″ G-panel retails in the order of £7k (4k panel)
5. 88″ Z-panel to retail in the order of £25k (8k panel)
6. That puts the Soundbar/Lift combo at £24k and £14k for 88 and 83″ respectively.
7. £10k is a hell of an additional premium (on a premium) for an extra 12cm of soundbar/grille??

Please explain if I am wrong here? Also, who or what does 8K media at the moment? Im a little behind the times.

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Lame excuse but when I looked at the B&O webpage, there were 2 83″ entries and the one I picked was £48,840.

That page is now showing 88″ rather than 83″

Regardless, two new products in this economic climate for a flagship TV at £20k and 50k respectively still screams that they wont be able to build them and ship them fast enough for queues wrapping around the block to get their order in with the AD. I fear a riot if people cant get this bargin.

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Emilos88 wrote:

“So it is because of different thing, so this is a explanation not that I don’t think it is overpriced.”

Really. OK. I’ll move on and leave you with that thought.

[NQVHNWI]

83 incher – £50k.

They’ll be sell’em by the truck load. Buy your B&O shares now before the market sees the upside in P/E ratio and they become too expensive.

[NQVHNWI]

Hi,

Im a bit rusty on BS5 settings with ML TVs. Hopefully this will give you pointers to self-diagnose.

1. BeoSound 5 / Beomaster 5

   Connection Audio

   BeoSound 5 can be placed in a setup, where either BS9000, BC2, BC2AO,

   BS3200 or BS4 is used as audiomaster and BeoSound 5 is used

   for N.MUSIC and N.RADIO.

    

   Audiomaster YES/NO on BeoSound 5 must be set to NO in this setup.

   This will disable OPTIONS setting for the BeoSound 5.

   The OPTION setting, referred to in this conclusion refers to

   the Audiomaster.

    

   Selecting option on the audio master

   Option: AUTO configurating (option 0)

   ********************* AUDIO/VIDEO/LINK SYSTEM SETUP *******************

   Connection

   Connect the Master Link socket of the audiomaster to the MASTER LINK

   socket of the TV-set using a BeoLink cable.

   ********************* REMOTE CONTROL FOR MAIN ROOM ********************

   The recommended remote control is Beo4

   The following remote controls may also be used:

   Beo5

   Setup for Beo4 remote control:

   Beo4’s “LIST” must contain the following items in order to be able

   to operate the Main Room products.

2. You will not see the BS5 on the TV. However, you will get Beomaster5 contents on N.Music or N.Radio
3. Connect Beolabs to the TV PL outputs and not the BS5

[NQVHNWI]

https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/SOUND_SYSTEMS/BEOSOUND_5/beosound5_userguide_english.pdf

 

 

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This is good fun……80’s rock on Amazon HD, like MOTs but not MOTs.

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Speculation…I wonder if they are attempting to make an Android phone/PC DAC Dongle – like the Audioquest Dragon Fly but with Bluetooth compatibility (that sentence though makes little sense of a HiRes DAC leading to lowRes BT transmission unless they have a new standard coming out).

[NQVHNWI]

Interesting.

When using my BL90s in “Audio” mode i.e. attached via XLR to my Auralic system (i.e. not controlled by a Beovision), I use the “BeoEye” IR receiver and an Essence Remote in IR mode. It works but is a little clunky and insensitive to volume control.

It will be interesting to see what the functionality of the Halo will be – whether it just uses IR or is true WiFi/BT control? Perhaps the more important aspect is the control of the BL90 being threshold triggered on/off by the Halo to enable instant switching from the Auralic to Beovision ecosystem?

Further, if the BL90 is getting Wifi/BT control (no sign in the BL90 firmware yet), then does that extend to BR1 being updated?

Interesting

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MaxH,

Glad you are optimistic. I am just being realistic I feel.

I too watch the watch markets with a relatively good collection. Unfortunately, the forums like this for Rolex, AP, PP more lately VC are full of idiots who think it is great that their 3 year old £5k Sub is now £12k. I feel that they are basically speculating by either putting their disposable cash (or even borrowing) and wanting and un-earned return – except they dont sell, thinking they will get an extra £x k before they consider selling.

Great I say……Hope they do. However, there may come a time when everyone dumps there SS Rolexes onto the market all at the same time and……

I think they call this tulip mania.

 

Further, I could go on about the Dealers. Sure there is making hay while the sun shines but there are so many Authorised Dealers now who are either quietly trying to bundle or insist you have a good six-figure spend to be “moved up the list”

I don’t mind the capitalist bit – in fact I embrace it. I just don’t like the snobbery and snootiness of those who forget 5 years ago……shifting £10k and plus plus watches (especially stainless steel ones) was a rare event normally reserved for city boys getting their annual bonus.

As mentioned in another forum….I stated that I will wait patiently on the side for another 6-12 months until I spot the AD in an overcoat trying to shift gear on the street corner for cents on the dollar.

It has happened before…and it will happen again.

[Author]

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