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I don’t have a USB to RJ-45 interface cable to update via the connector in the battery compartment of the A3.
I dont remembrer it was any RJ45 connector in the battery compartment. Are you sure of that ? To me it wouldn’t make sense since the A3 is not a connected device. Also because there is no way to easily access the battery compartment : you have to unglue the plastic sheet in the center of the cradle.
My A3s are charging right now, I’ll tell you about the software version as soon as they wake up.
What I wonder is if they the A3 would be more convenient without the battery. When you plug it, it seems to charge the iPad first and then the A3 battery. This means that when your iPad is full and the A3 low (red light)n then it is when the iPad is not responsive. Maybe if We take the battery out it will act like any other charging dock and work as soon as the iPad is docked.
I’ve seen replacement batteries are available for around 40€ but the thing is that I don’t trust too much batteries that are sold now for devices from another age: you never know for how long they have been stored.
I remember using IPA
You use… Beer? 😉
All right, thank you both of you.
This surface coating, very “à la mode” in the nineties, always turn into a sticky mess.
I won’t hesitate to call this one of the major industrial fails of that era!Now, I can’t answer on large surfaces even more if yo can’t take appart the part, but I’ve stripped it of a Beosound 3 wall mount, leaving it satin black where it was before velvet mat black. If I remember well I did this rubbing the coating with warm water.
They are various articles on the web about coating again the part with “Plastic-dip’ paint.
Often Beosound 4 and Beolab 3.Luckily the back of my Beocenter 6 doesn’t show any sign of stickiness but I’m afraid it won’t last forever.
Hi everybody,
At XavierItzmann, Thats a nice project and it will be good that if could upgrade that lovely system and make it life for years more. I’m looking forward what you’ll find.
I have two A3’s, one has an iPad 1 64Go and works basically as a giant iPod with built in (B&O) speakers. The other one has an iPad 3 and is used as a mobile Beovision: I use it to watch through VLC, movies or tvshows streaming from the main media server.
Honestly I can’t say that they are the most useful piece of B&O hardware I use today. Its more like Millemissen said, nostalgia (appart from the giant iPod that is use on vacations).
Nevertheless, I’ve notice a small issue thought: when the iPad and the A3 are low on battery (you never actually know how charged is the A3 battery…), the touch function of the iPad become erratic. You have to let it plugged for a while before it start to behave like it should again (on both A3’s with different iPads).
Can new members, just ask politely, say “hello”, “please” (in full letters) and “thank you”?
That said, because I’ve not BL6000 I can not design the clamps. But outrageously expensive solutions solution exists around, so that’s possible.
Nothing to do with your question but it nevertheless allows me to talk about it:
Somebody, is selling wooden grills with that design on classified ads and it unfortunately happens to be in the town close to where I live. Easy to recognize them as they use the very same wood bits than the one on this site: squared front, half rounded sides, Bulk and curvature of the whole grid all the same…Thats ok, I gave them away, if people is more ‘entrepreneur’ than me, all good to them.
But if anybody comes with a similar solution for Beolab 6000, I’d like it give it away for free for forum members.
Beoworld gives, and you gives to Beoworld.
That’s the way.
(a capacitor or somesuch?)
I hate those capacitors, they really turning our lives into a continuous nightmare…. 😉
Is there a way of finding out what the software version on the A3 is?
The Beosetup App. but if I remember well, they are not that much SW version and they do not bring anything obviously useful.
Bonjour Jeff et bienvenue sur Beoworld.
À priori, mais ce n’est qu’un avis naif, je ne vois pas pourquoi ça ne pourrait pas fonctionner.
Selon moi, on entend une enceinte quelle que soit sa position. Mais j’ai l’oreille peu sensible et je ne suis pas très délicat non plus.Ceci étant dit, un puriste pourrais dire que le tweeter des BL6000 se trouve presque à mi-hauteur de l’enceinte, ce qui fait que pour des 6000 accrochée au plafond il risque d’être environ 50-60 cm au dessus du niveau moyen de l’oreille lorsqu’on est assis.
Est ce que ça ruine “l’experience” ? je ne sais pas, je dirais que non mais encore une fois je ne suis pas très initié.
Je tenterai avec les enceintes sur des tables ou meme carrément avec des amis qui les tiendraient à bout de bras à l’envers, juste pour voir (entendre).
Donc en résumé, ça depend beaucoup de votre exigence.
Techniquement, je pense que ça ne pas leur faire que du bien : les BL6000 ont comme toutes les Beolab de cette époque des mousse internes qui se décomposent et finissent par fondre sur l’électronique avec pour consequence de grignoter les circuits imprimés. Les avoir à l’envers fait que la mousse désagrégée ne tombera plus sur l’électronique, la préservant ainsi.
Dernière chose, il existe d’autres Beolab qui sont plus pratique à installer en enceintes arrières : Les 3 est leur support mural, les 4000 avec leur accroches au plafond ou au mur, les 4 aussi, discrète et facile à suspendre.
The strange thing is that the channel plays on both speakers and when I dial down the balance both speakers go quiet.
Ok, I read too fast again. Then just do as Guy told!
Sorry.
Can you please explain?
I understood that you have a balance problem only when playin an AUX.IN source.
Then DIN adapters sold on the market are not always correctly wired, sometime AUX.IN, sometimes AUX.OUT, sometimes exotic combinations of both: better make your wires yourself or talk to a specialist!Now if the problem is there even when playing a CD that’s another story. Then I would for from more simple to the more complicated:
1-Check with an headphone.
2-Check the line in switch of your Beolabs as suggested by Guy above.
3-Check the Powerlink cables by inverting them from one speaker to another.
4-when you’re certain the wire is not the problem, check the Beolabs by inverting them again or using the line in socket if they have one.If no one of this works, then it may be an internal problem with your 9000 and it’s beyond my knowledge.
Good luck.
Check adapter wiring?
Hi,
Glue it with whatever glue is relavant and punt something around it to make it stronger, from a pipe ring to an O’ring, or a very little rislan if you can conceal it. Maybe also orthodontist wire wrapped around…
Maybe not the best solution, but dismantling this part involves taking off the thin wires from the head and after that, adjusting all the arm mechanism. Definitely not something I would do unless mandatory.
[…] where you can select how/where to direct the sound, […]
Doesn’t this require more than a woofer and two tweeters?
Um I don’t know what bluetooth really has to do with the battery?
Nothing, just that those two speakers are used as still speaker and placed where they cannot have a power cord. I already had to find tricks to hide the Airplay brick but the two speaker still rely on their batteries to work and requires being charged like twice a month (not working daily).
My problem is that I have a 6-year old A6 in the bedroom and a P6 , couple of P2s and an A2 all minty good condition in storage box somewhere doing very little.
It’s all said, you are just not a Bluetooth guy! I have A1 an A2 but booth feed with an Airport express. Quite convenient in terms of placing but not that much when it comes to power.
From the pictures I find it nice (I always have loved the Beolit 12 form factor and thought it dis loose something by going bluetooth only…). I rather the nordic wave version but I should change when seeing them in real.
But the pictures with the designers holding it over the shoulder like an old gettoblaster is… Too much cheesy!
Hi enrob,
It was there a spamGPT answer that point to a faulty ribbon cable and warning you to be careful when opening the device to check this part.
I mention this because this is not totally dumb. Nevertheless I believe those answer are as useful as a picture of the Pope in white puffy jacket running away from the police.
You’ve already explore the old forums so you may already know most of what wiz know on this common issue, most digitizers ends up developing a touch fault. Sometimes its the ribbon cable but sometimes it’s not. Think someone explored another track on this but I dont remember he found a solution.
Good luck.
Seen that on my very smart cell phone…
but the styling really doesn’t do anything for me.
I agree it is a little bit to much “hippie” looking.
Pretty amazing for the size
Sorry it ends up on you, but I’ve always found this is the silliest, most useless and still most used argument to describe B&O stuff: the P2 is “amazing for its size”, the A1 is “amazing for its size” the P6 was “amazing for its size” (noticed how we don’t ever more heard of it?), the Emerge is “amazing for its size”… Etc.
Does this make the Beolab 90, after all “not so great given its size” ?
You buy B&O and the B&O signature sound. Whatever the size it should sound great (or B&O like at least) and size must not be an excuse for sounding a little bit under the expectations.
So if a speaker sound “amazing for its size”, make it a little bit bigger and sound just “amazing”.
My point of view (photographers around?). 😉
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