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It didn’t work.

The Beo6 Is still out of battery even thought it was docked for hours and the battery was healthy before the “incident”.

That’s three of four Beo6 that show the same symptom and that’s only because I’ve not tested the fourth one.

The only common history they all share is that they have been teared down and up again many times. Is it possible that it was a sensible component about power management that may be hurt in the process? The service manual or the BW replacement procedure article say nothing about a specific thing care of.

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Hi,

Another problem, but still Beo6 battery related. Today, my beloved an trustful Beo6, heart of the living room, started to show a problem: some keys did’nt emit anymore.
In the end it was some sort of config corruption and the easy way would have been to set the remote to standard config via the internal menu and then back to the the custom config.

But before I knew that I did the usual: opening, checking, trying to swap the keyboard, etc.
In short I openend the remote disconnected all and connected it all back.

The key are working again but the remote is not charging anymore, the battery last a few seconds before going off. I would say like if it was no battery at all but the remote is working for a few seconds when left from the base. Even when on the base, using the remote also drain the battery immediatly leading to a reboot.

The power on this remote is really a mystery to me… Any hints?

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Very common IR board fault. Two capacitors to change. Follow the guidelines in the link provided by Guy above.

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Beovox “something” in the very mind-puzzling movie “The Father”.

I have had hard time trying to find to what they are connected. Found some hints but not sure:

A Beosystem 5000 behind the table? Maybe…

Or perhaps the Beosound Century MK2 seen in the mirror?

Because I know it can’t be the Beolit 12 in the kitchen, right?

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I’d like to add that, to me, the most obvious problems just that it is… Ugly!
The 72-22 was very nice: mat silver, dark wood, always sexy Beolab 18, whatever ridiculous the price was, the system is beautiful.

There, it is just… Ugly. And as far as I can tell but I’d like to have your views on that, This color scheme do not make me think me to any Scandinavian dawn.

Beolab 28 with tweed like fabric? Really?

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Hi everyone, Hi Steve again,

I don’t share Steve’s enthuthiasm (and he very well know why, right?).

Whoever Beoworlder coud make “almost” the same set for the fraction of the price; most of the money economy being in a forum-guided-beogram-4002-refurbishement-project, up to everyone to choose his own components. My choice was an original BG4002 because I like the color (loved the 4000c in his champaign color promo pictures but real life yellohish pictures proved to be too much “nicotine*” to me), Beolab 8000 over Beolab 18 because its all I can afford and a 70€ Playmaker and some Powerlink wires instead of a Core, Emitter and whatever else.

The result may not be Hi-Fi or two-point-zero but I’m listening to records with the eye candy.

I remember Leo or maybe Moxx, ironically saying “new beoplay=new colors”. I feel the same here and it’s sad for me. Not that I dont understand people that will go for it, they surely will and its good for them and for the brand (moneywise). But sad in the idea that they sold us (the few of us) an idea that was “we’re going to recreate many of our iconic products, wait and see”. I remember a thread in BWII where people where guessing what would be the next “recreated” products, part of the new “recreation” program. In the end it’s just the Beoplay, new colors strategy. Nothing more. Up to anyone to like it or not.

But to be complete, the exercise, yes, would have to have ginger colored wired! 😉

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Madskp, I love you and am for sure following this.

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Really ? Sorry to be bitter again but this is starting to look like the Omega brand that can’t stop to produce infinite different flavors of their “once in the past” bestseller Speedmaster watch.

Appart from the fact I don’t like the color scheme at all, I wonder how many iterations we’ll see in the future: pop colors Basquiat yellow/red/blue? All mat black version? Limited original colors version? Beoplay H4 tangerine like edition?

It just kill the hope I had in the “Recreation” trend when the first 4000c came out, that made me hope for some other comebacks that I understand will never be.

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You’ve got the answers, you’ve got the schematics, you’ve got the value, that’s all the tutorial you’ll need.
Hello, please and thank you would have been welcome also.

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Hi everyone,

I would like to keep investigating. I’d like to try different source of power but to help the process and remove the variables I’d like to know how the thermal protection works.

If I want to remove it for my tests how do I mimic it? Do I need to short it (Meaning red wire and white wire connected together) or just remove it (meaning white wire disconnected?

Thank to anyone who can help.

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Too bad! Thank you for looking.
(It would be nice and useful to launch a thread on these Beo4 screen fault and find solution! I still dont understand when the fault is before or after the gummy band…).

Enjoy the beer!

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Guy wrote:

the only fault was a damaged screen – it displayed fine but had damage in the corner.

Wouldn’t it be possible to repair the screen? I don’t remember well how they’re made and what cause the leaking, but if it can be removed and the glass repaired, that would made a better remote that one with a missing line of pixel or very dimmed digits.

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Hi Xavieritzmann,

Did you have the main charger plugged all that time?
By now all batteries would be dead or weak at the best and as you said, I wouldn’t trust too much a 10€ battery. This added to the fact that you already had charging issues before, I wouldn’t say that the A3 is dead yet.

Do you have a way to borrow an iPad 1 or 2 to check A3 in its normal condition, then assess the battery health and then, once you know, play with the adapter? I feel like you have too many “variables” in your equation there.

It is possible the A3 is faulty, but I think its a solid piece of hardware so, I would insist a little more to bring it back to life.

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solderon29 wrote:

Is Ouverture 4000 a model?

C’mon, I think we can be forgiving there, Bang & Olufsen being the first to have numerous confusing model names, right?

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Follow Dillen’s advice has always proved to be te way to go…

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Exactly.

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Maybe it worth asking Keith if he have any manual related to the A3.
I think the A3 is a very delicate thing to open, not that delicate actually but the chances to harm the aluminium trims are there, so no ay to look inside to see any markings on the PCB.

Here is the picture of a 1.0.4.0 SW A3.

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So, One A3 is SW 1.0.4.0 and the other is 1.0.0.0.
Trying to check for update leads to an error.

I didn’t notice any different behavior from one to the other.

Both iPad charge up to 100% (Actually, the iPad 1 charge to 99% but I believe this is an iPad issue).

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And I suppose this tester can also serve as Ethernet network tester wit the right “reversed” adapter too.

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XavierItzmann wrote:

it only wants to charge the iPad if the iPad has less than about 60% battery.

Idiotic guessing: couldn’t this be caused by a change of nature or capacity in new iPads?

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