[matador]

[matador]

Yes it is.

[matador]

ajames wrote:

From my own experience my secondhand Beolab 8000s sounded awful compared to Beovox S45-2, S60 etc. However this may have been because the foam rotted. Certainly several years before when I bought some brand new ones the bass was fine and i thought they sounded amazing.

Same experience here when BL8000’s MK1 replaced S45-2 and then P50’s.
I changed the foam (black rotten with brand new white) and get a little increase in bass but not that much. They still didn’t even compete with my BL4000’s.

But the pencils are now driven by a Playmaker with the bass cranked up a little and mostly used to listen to analogue music (Beogram) and I must say I’m happy with it: not those deep chest striking bass but bass low and round enough to my taste. When listening to digital sources they are more “average” but as this is often background music it works also. And as already said, the benefit of the iconic design. It’s not a perfect deal but it’s ok right now. Sometimes I’d like to add a BL2, sometimes not because it is hard to place in my room and wires, etc… The Beolab2 is also quiet expensive even in second hand. There is one around for 350€ but it’s faulty and i don’t know how easy/difficult repairs are on this unit.

aJames, you also compare second hand BL8000’s with brand new you bought years ago. Were the the same mark because the brand new may have been MK2 with improved bass and the second hand MK1, couldn’t they?

[matador]

That’s sad one can’t easily print his own records, it would have been a nice reedition!

I may make myself one with and old 45′, just to hold it or have it in display! 🙂

[matador]

Always on the edge “Museum Henrik”!

By the way, I wonder how they could fit 5 tracks on one 45 rpm side (and 3 on the other)?

Martin, would you share the other tracks as well?

[matador]

Dillen wrote:

Wow, – now just three left…

You’ve become an influencer Martin! 🙂

[matador]

Please Martin,

We already had that talk here and in private, I reckon I may need to see a doctor or talk to someone or even chill out a bit when it comes to money but I am what I am and we all have our little weird habits. Not to mention our budget limits.

Anyway, if the record was 9€ I would not have considered buying it. So I won’t consider paying 9€ for shipment.

[matador]

(… And I still will make a re-edition, just for the pleasure of it)

[matador]

You’re right, thank you for pointing this to me.

9€ shipping for a 3€ record is a bit too much unbalanced to me.

Nevertheless, I thought this would be more rare and will keep an eye on Discogs.

Thank you Martin.

[matador]

• Hard to find, here…
• Pricey…
• Shipping cost if anywhere else…
• Any combination of the above.

😉

 

[matador]

Hi,

 

Torx N°5

[matador]

Being blessed enough with a somebody who would fancy gift me with a Stage if I ever wipe out all the little Yamaha cubes around the sofa, I’d like to know how the it compares with the Theatre in matter of “just” sound, not connectivity or expandability or whatever else. Lest’s say just in terms of sound and “spacialization” (pseudo rear channels).

[matador]

Ok,

After watching this thoroughly and to echoes Trackbeo’s post, there is something that bother me. (Bother me as to be taken as from someone who can’t afford it, if it matters. And also from someone who spend time “reverse engineering” wood lamellas on BL18):

The wood strips are so apart you can see the plastic structure holding them. It would work for a far (should I say “ignorant”) point of view, but to client used to B&O perfection it’s look like a pale copy (not even to mention the totally ‘not B&O forward design’).

It’s easy to criticize when I’m not ever gonna buy it, but still, eager to hear what you think.

 

[matador]

Looks like Rocketeer flying reversed or some sort of Art Deco Snowpiercer…

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

Still hoping I can find the STL files somewhere online

Tuttivini, I can design an STL based on the widely available 3D Beolab meshes provided by B&O, I can even make them stand on top of BL8000 as an aesthetic add-on. If you want this, just give me some time. they should be visually accurate.

But If you want to replace the 8000’s top plate with a true lens, I see two reasons I can’t help:

First, I won’t dismantle my 8000’s (again) to see how the original top plate is assembled to the column. so I can’t provide an exact replacement part.

Second, as I already said, I suppose ALT is a mix of tweeter size, related curves for the shell and (sound reflectivity?) material. If the first point was net there, I would still be designing look-a-like pieces in the blind hoping they will fit BL8000’s tweeter specs.

Something I thought some time ago… You can find on the second hand market, tweeter from an Audi car installation, they lean a little bit forward and that can make the whole thing look more modern and they should be accurate in rendering, but it’s playing god there…

(Geoff, if you read, please forgive us and remember I never did it!)

 

[matador]

styppen wrote:

@matador, can you confirm if multiplying the scale factor for x100 will get the right dimensions?

I confirm,

I would have like an “hello” and a “thank you” though. But I’m old fashioned.
(Not the drink… Ok the drink too, but not what I meant, even if… Well, you see, right ?)

[matador]

Hi Tuttivini,

Thank you.

Interesting point you raised, that allow me to add some comments.

I’ve asked my brother in law (the father of the kid who printed the clamps for me) if he would do the same thing and he smiled at me saying “no”. What I understood is “if you have 8000’s keep 8000’s, don’t make them look fakes 18’s or even worse, fake B&O”.
It made me think. But just the pleasure of trying was enough (and the grills were already made at that time). That said, I can’t swear that the fabric covers will never return.

All this to say that I rather the 18’s “hommage” over the 18’s “copy” or “makeup”.
On top of that and more grounded, rounding the lamellas would have been a lot of manual work I’m not sur to be able to do. So I went for another way of doing it:

The ears are half rounded, and the rounding leads to the angular front-end, making all this quite pleasant in real. Enough to me.

Another detail I like every day when looking at them (and I must say, over other commercial alternatives) is that the chrome top cap of the column stick out of the wood top line. I’ve always thought that the wooden grill on Bl8000’s makes them look weird because our eyes are so trained to “wood=ALT”, they were always missing something. To the point of thinking to add a falser ALTs with Liliviken caps!
And then, I can see this little chrome ring sticking out the wood and it’s enough to me to balance de speaker design.

Now, more seriously, the important part is the clamps (and even more, the back part of the clamp), as a piece or as an idea.
It’s open to anyone to make it better, with thinner lamellas, different angles, better wood or wood work. I did go for cheap, that’s why I’ve advertised a total cost of 50€.

See this as a proof of concept and make it better, I’m sure it can.

Next work: the black 80 denier Woolford fret!

Cheers and thank you all for your comments.

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

And make our own accoustic lens on the beolab 8000 (In The Netherlands I found a person who 3d-printed this top cover. Re-using, rewiring, relocating the original 8000 tweeter).

This is typically too much for me, cheesy, the wood grills are too large and I would never ever alter the “sonic” design of the speaker more than just playing with the frets.

I suspect ALT is a little more than just a plastic shell over a tweeter. I wouldn’t do that.

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

would it also be possible for you to design (stl files) those clamps for the 6000 series?

In theory, yes. But I don’t have Beolab 6000 to take measurements, do the adjustments and figure out how to fix them using the speakers hooks.

[matador]

It would look like a little box with line-in and line-out sockets and a 5V input (or whatever is need to start the Beolab AND power the box circuitry.

Inside there will be a relay or something similar that would be triggered by the amplified Line-in signal (sound). The relay would have an auto hold loop with some sort of timing circuitry (I.E it would stick for “some” time when no sound is present and then open).

Output of the relay will trigger or not the 5V to the Beolab.

Now, Please note that I’m totally ignorant of how it could impact sound (since we’re playing with the main audio feed, but as far as I remember my electronic classes, this is not NASA technology here.

[Author]

Posts