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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Are you talking about the 1985 stereo radio-cassette system versus the 2020 Bluetooth speaker ? They have next to nothing in common and nothing at all in term of sound.
First, the Beosystem 10 is more or less a Japan production that, how to say this, has only the B&O look. It’ two wide range speakers sounds flat, very average and of course, old, absolutely not B&O. But it is still a very nice device on display who needs regularly to have the dust removed from its shinny black panels.The Beolit 20 is a portable BT speaker with tweeters and woofers and has a more deep, detailed and modern sound.
Their footprint is also slightly different. The BS10 may be wider than your Tivoli system but also thinner and can be hanged to the wall.
Prices may also be very different.
Depending on your budget, your needs and the way you have to organise your space you may want to consider:
- a Beosound Century: it’s very wide but can be wall mounted and color panels for the speakers can help to make it more discrete. Can be remote controlled.
- A Beolit 12, same as Beolit 20 but they’re cheaper, Airplay not BT and its less boom sounding than the 15/17/20. The 12 can be remote controlled.
- If you can place the speakers away any Beosound Ouverture/2300/3000/3200 will give you a small footprint. The Ouverture has a tape deck. Can be remote controlled.
All have aux-in.
Hope this helps.
But I just need two suitable Beovisions and a slightly older VHS player than the two I already have,
Please let me call them for you…
I’ve not been of any help in this, it’s far beyond my skills.
But I’ve felt that need to thank this ghost community (and maybe did, can’t remember, hope I did…). So even if I’m not directly concerned, I want to thank you to have taken the time to post this.
M.
An MCL junction box?
Close! The hole (and the two the other side) are for co-ax (aerial) cables.
What? This is a genuine thing?
Really someone should call the Jarman brothers and inspire them to write “Black boxes: the underground world of Bang&Olufsen”.
I now know what it is,
A Beolab 2500 -> Beolab 90 converter? 😀
I wouldn’t say it’s a scam but at least its a misleading sale. Top and side views are not the same item: On the top view it’s a C7 power plug and there is only one “screw ear”, on the side views it’s a 12v jack and both “screw ear” are there. Definitely not a 1638 BL Active.
Strange that the Subwoofer socket is an input rather than output?
Yes, the mystery is what could this thing be for? What would be the use of a Woofer IN with two Front OUT? And if this would be some sort switch, how would it be controlled: no IR in, nothing appart INs/OUTs and Power. Should it be reversed I would understand it was what SIA43 said, but this ?
Quite a weird thing indeed, but I’l not a specialist…And more importantly, do I need one?
Yes you do, to tell us what it is…. 😀
Life is unfair!
Congratulation lucky you.
Regarding the transformer, it’s simply not possible to make one using an Arduino, a smartphone or a 3D-printer.
I got that! But the question behind was, aren’t power supplies just a matter of voltage rails? Why are they so difficult to replace? The same goes for motors: isn’t it just a thing that… spins?
Regarding the question of originality we both don’t want to discuss, I perfectly understand your point of view and, believe it or not, I’m in. I’m quite conservative and like thing to be as they were when first bought (hence my taste for papers, boxes, brochures …) and when I drift away from that rule, any change I make is reversible. But they’re also lot of vintage stuff that had their gut’s removed to repair a brother but are still in good cosmetic condition. If you let me be a little provocative I have one or two Beograms 12xx that could benefit from a simple motor to drive the platter an be used in manual mode, that would be better than the deck in a cupboard waiting to be chopped until the next house move where they will end in the bin.
I’m not talking about hiding a bluetooth Ikea speaker into a Beolab 5, or trading a delicate Beocord mechanism with the first Radiola cassette player pieces around but just replacing some “basic” components with modern alternative because they are vital and not visible/part of the final sound which is what we want.
Bad Powerlink wires? Are they original? Long? Short?
Well, that was an example to illustrate that sometimes someone can stay with an empty shell because (what seems to be) a generic part is missing. I may loose myself and readers with examples but once I got for free a Beocord VX something. It was in very good condition and electronically all working apart from the loading mechanism that was broken: a specific plastic part. It went to the recycle bin. All in all it was it’s fate, part was difficult or impossible to repair and hunt for a donor would make no sense because eventually I nevertheless would have no use of a VHS scope. But the story would have been different in my mind if the problem would have been à lack of 24 Volts somewhere, I mean I’ve got plenty of 24 volts PSU in a box somewhere.
You see what I mean?
Now your explanation about power supplies is ver enlightening and I thank you. I recently had to strip an RIAA preamp from its built-in transformer because it added noise to the phono signal so, yes, I understand what you explained and it makes sense to me. Apart from that I currently have no transformer problem but I used that example because it’s a common topic on forums: Beolab’s Stand-by trafo, power source in Beograms or Beomaster, missing power lines in the same units sometimes… And when I see some PSU that weight now next to nothing when they used to be big, heavy and hot in the past 10 years, I wonder why this still is a problem. Now I know.
About Beogram motors its more or less the same ignorant logic. Luckily, on the 4 Beograms I have, all have working motors. If you remember, I’ve always have been scared about infusing bearings (12xx bearing, not smaller yet!), but I’ve finally tried too, with mitigated success, more likely due to wrong oil (by greed again!). But I learned that I can. So no motor needs now but I thank you for your proposition. But again, If Im correct, The 12xx motor is just a motor spinning at a defined speed and that’s why I wonder nobody came with a modern solution that could replace the whole, very beautiful and well engineered but prone to wear and misadjustement assembly – motor+idler wheel – with something less elegant but simpler. But here again your explanation help me to understand those things were well built and whatever the price or difficulties to service them (for the common user) when they are, they will last five or six decades again.
But don’t worry, I’ll soon get in touch with you for some rubber things! 😀
Thank you Martin.
Hi,
Beo 6 is central and important for me, two of the three remotes I use daily, the third being a BL5000. Very far from a collectors item on a shelf.
But it’s temperamental: you have to work a little bit to get the better of it, and even then you’ll face issues that were there even when new, like battery life, touchscreen life expectancy, etc…
You’ll find a lot of useful informations in the old forum, including specific third party IR codes or example of uses. and there is also a dedicated page on the main website with a link to a programming guide that worth be studied.
Beo6/5 was badly born/lauched/presented but in the end it makes all the thing “non B&O” people believe a beo4 will do: learn codes, command everything, be magic, with that B&O 90’s charm.
Enjoy…
Hi all members,
I’d like to kindly remind to everyone that Sales/Wanted announcements used to be reserved to Silver and Gold members for obvious reasons. Right now, for technical causes, the “filter” is off, but it would be fair to anyone who’s selling fairly through Beoworld to consider a membership as a “thank you” with benefits!
Running Beoworld is not free and I believe we all could saw how hard it was to keep it alive in the past month, thanks mostly to the underground work of Keith.
So please, enjoy the bargain, fell free to trade, but at some point, remember it!
(greedy Bronze Matador, out…!)
Wasn’t it something about antistatic coating that was very fragile and shall not be removed?
Did you experience anything about that after your works?
Thank you.
The belt looks fine…
i have one speaker done and it looks wonderful.
That’s great work, thank you for sharing it!
Have people just lost interest?
Hi, Jacques.
I think they haven’t, at least in having their stuff getting up and working.
But I feel like people have lost interest in sharing. Lot of valuable, inspiring, and knowledgeable members have left the building and the effect on the whole beoworld community is obvious for anyone here more than two/three years like me.
Some new members try to keep things working but there is an obvious gap with the past and the energy is lost. We mostly share “tips and tricks” than real throughout procedures like in the past. We simply are not that old guard, far from it.
I also think (and I can understand) that some people want to “repair” and other want to “restore” leading in misunderstandings and “fights” (i.e. querelles) about things like purity, originality, good repairs and dirty ones, original parts and bad ones, prices vs love and good or bad way of doing things. Reading back post from the first forum and others from the late BWII shows clearly this.
I find it really sad even if until now I’ve always found what I needed. But with that strange feeling to be a “leecher” more than a “member”.
M.
It also was a step by step method to built the above-the-ears triangle pads. It will be available in the old forum as soon as the pictures will be back.
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