[matador]

Thank you Martin.

I will report here when done.

[matador]

Has it ever lift before or is it a new fault?

I’ve one of those that don’t lift. Under the table there is a little “piston” that push the plastic disc where the arm rest (through the little screw). The piston is stuck and the whole thing dont move anymore. Maybe you ca start from here.

[matador]

Also, what do you mean by “quite damage”?

Unless it is knocked on an edge, I believe Beolab 4000 grills are the easiest to reclothe.
And even if…

[matador]

A very sympathetic guy on discogs was selling this record with the accompanying letter.
I asked him if he would agree to send me a shot and very generously, he did!

Unfortunately that was not “the” letter, it was one about Beovox Uniphase.
Not the one I saw on Internet. But it still a funny think and I want to thank that guy again.

I keep googling to find it…

[matador]

pepps wrote:

I tried the old classic ‘plug in and unplug repeatedly’ a headphone connector in the little headphone socket.

Great, congratulations,

Maybe (but would be good to wait for the approval of somebody that knows about that…) you could unplug the whole unit and spray contact cleaner into the jack?

[matador]

That’s weird! If you’ve been using the converter through a Powerlink wire and the converter cliks in/cliks out, it means the powerlink socket is correctly passing sound and power (right now I’m wondering if there is the same pin that triggers both devices beolab or converter…).

As for the headphone socket, I dont know if it’s a relay or just a switch built-in the jack socket. When I tried it just before posting, I didnt hear any relay appart from the loud ones from the beolabs just there.

[matador]

Hi, I’m not good at this but what comes to my mind:

Do you have sound from the headphone socket?
Did you deactivate the converter as mentioned above?
Do the mute light light on or off accordingly, meaning could it be a stuck key on the keyboard?
Could it be the headphone switch that is stuck?

[matador]

See there

[matador]

Hi,

First you need to check you have a FULL ambio box: most of the ones I’ve seen are often missing the speakers plugs and have bare wires. Then

You have male/female plugs. you plug this into your amp speaker out and plug in the female part the main speakers. Given the electronics re not to aged and would need a refresh, this how it works:

You have the speaker outs from the box where you plug the “ambio” speakers that should be placed on the sides (not behind). Refer to an ambio Beomaster owner’s guide like the 1001 for details on the ambio effect. It’s not a an obvious effect and, as far as I’ve experienced it, very depending on the source music.

The difference between the ambio and the ambio filtered (the one with the waves) was never obvious to me but I’m not good at audio subtleties.

Hope this helps.

[matador]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld,

Any MMCx (1/2/3/4/5) will fit: they all look like the same, they differ in diamond shape and cantilever material, in short, in quality (MMC5 is the lowest, MMC1 is the best).

They must not be mistaken with MMCxx (10/20) or MMCxxxx (5000,6000,…) that are bigger in size and older.

Sadly, there is no cheap alternative to those cartridges. Sometimes you may find a bargain second hand but they would not be at their best. Beside the electrical part and the needle condition, there is a rubber part inside that may be dry and limit the quality of the sound.
Honestly I have old cartridge and I’m not sure how it does affect the sound that sound pretty good to me. However, it is something to consider.

The cheapest way I’ve found to get a good MMC was to find a broken one for cheap and having it rebuilt by a specialist, Then you get a new tip, a new cantilever and a new suspension, in other word a brand new cartridge. But this still have a cost, more than 150€ depending on the initial cost of the cartridge, the shipping cost, etc…

From memory the 2200 is an entry level, Japanese in disguise Beocenter.
It would be easier to sell if it has the cartridge. Cartridges have a more resell value.

Hop this helps.

[matador]

KolfMAKER wrote:

Is this the Technical Sound Guide you are referring to? https://tinyurl.com/4a72t56v

I think it must be that one instead!

[matador]

YannChris wrote:

This one was used by my father for demos (he was a B&O dealer in the 70’s). Below all the faces, including tracklists.

Thank you YannChris.
I really love this stylus tip graphics.
The record as it, as un object is a beautiful thing.

Did you try it?

[matador]

square4 wrote:

Found it but no letter. Henrik.

Hi Henrik, thank you for checking.

[matador]

Hi Geoff,

The black one is listed on discogs:

About the white one, I believe I’ve seen a test record with this sleeve design, but I can’t find it. Is this the one you’re referring to?

Thank you.

[matador]

That’s amazing, I understand it all now…

Thank you for the heads up Steve,

Happy birthday B&O and happy birthday to all of us.

[matador]

Hi Steve,

Is today, TODAY? November 17th?

Edit:

[matador]

It’s a “test” record.

It as music tracks to display Hi-Fi quality but also “technical” tracks to adjust turntable settings.

See there and there

So there will be music tracks along with sine tones, white noises, things like that. I don’t know really. But it seems that the letter gives hints on how to use it.

They are many test records of every brand, that one is of course, iconic to us.

Regards.

[matador]

What is “monoblock couple”?

[matador]

And I’m sorry too but you dont seem to understand what a forum is all about: common knowledge, future help, things like that…

[matador]

tamtapir wrote:

The important thing is not that the output is doubled.

It is important for people who try to understand what you want to achieve or may want to do the same in the future. That may “interest them” as well…

[Author]

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