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Perhaps something in the ML cable tells it how to behave? Connect to a TV and it becomes an audiomaster, to a BeoSystem (or BL3500) and it becomes a videomaster.
That’s an interesting theory. Right now the only Masterlink TV I have has its plug out of reach but it worth a try.
Ok Gentlemen,
Why can’t we (almost) not use the converter as an something-master when connected to a Beovision?
Guy succeed when using his Beosound 1 but why didnt I when connection my 2300?
Tomorrow I will connect again the 1611 with the 3500 and start it last to see if it reverts to the need of AV+key to open is AUX port. I mean, are we struggling with a lack of procedure testing or against an autoconfig devil? That will be a long night…
7 pins, but I think the OneRemote data is going to pin 7 which is not connected inside the 1611. Hence why I think I need to swap 6 and 7 (or use an adaptor)
That would be a very dirty trick from OneRemote.
The manual for the 1611 only mentions it briefly
Yes and that’s where I think B&O like to keep us in the blind…
From my diggings in the old forum, the powerlink socket is of no use at all for us. It just tell the converter when you turn up the system or change volume from the keyboard of an AAL unit like the Beocenter 2300. It carries no sound and accept no sound, just “meta commands” if I can call it like this.
How much pins do your internet radio have ?
Hi and welcome to Beoworld,
Well, first we don’t know either why it didn’t occurs to you that B&O was the obvious answer.
But never mind, we all forgive you!While waiting for a more educated answer from members who have a true listening experience with the setup you are aiming for. I personally dont have experience with it.
But… From the catalogs:
Beovision 3 was shown in a surround setup with 8000 fronts and 6000 rear.
6000 are often shown as rear speaker, often with Beolab 1 as front.
Beovision 7 that carry Beolab 7 is show with 8000 front and rear.
Beosystem AV9000 is shown with 8000 front and 6000 rear, with the triangle Beolab as center.As far as I know, 8000 and 6000 are more or less same “generation” speaker so they should merge well.
What I would care of (naively):
– How much of the “merging” is usually done by the Beovision engine and would not happen with your setup.
– How your sub will fit in there?What I would care of (with experience):
– how were the speakers serviced and refurbished? They’re both known for foam rot problem (do a search on this forum) that can alter the lifetime of the speaker. They need to be opened, cleaned, and the damping material to be replaced. 6000’s are prone to the other foam rot, the disintegration of the drivers suspension. It can be fixed but it need to be well done.
I think you need to check this even before starting to play with your new toys.Hope this helps.
I tried to crank the volume up to max on both the iphone and the TV. Then I would hear the sound, but very low like when trying to connect a record player to an input without a RIAA.
When I use the converter with the Beolab 3500, normal sound is obtain by pressing any VIDEO source.
If I press an audio source, like CD, and crank the volume up up up, I can hear the music far away and very high pitched, like if it was leaking from another channel.
Is this what you experience? I yes then I think it’s just not working at all, its just an electrical perturbation.Nothing,
I’ve tried
- Two different Masterlink cables.
- Option setting,
- Connecting My BC2300 in A-OPT 0
- To enable Beolink Radio and disable Internal Radio,
- Press Menu after selection an audio source,
- Select AV+Audio Source.
All nothing, the TV stay on the last internal source selected (TV, A.MEM, RADIO…)
Still does nothing…
Hmmmm… No!
Ok I’ll go back.
And after that which is the normal option setting to put it all back as it is now (TV alone in a room). Thanks.
First attemp:
1611 to BC6 via Masterlink. iPod to 1611 via 5 pins DIN.
-> Nothing happens, no sound, no source selection.
I’ve tried A.AUX, A.TAPE.
Nothing on screen or on speakers.Second attemp:
Back to usual config which is:
Converter to Beolab 3500 via Masterlink.
iPod to Converter via 5 pins DIN.
Converter powered on first and after Beolab 3500.
-> All auxiliary audio sources stay silent but I can get audio from video sources without the need of pressing AV before.
So its the same behavior that after using it with the BC2300.Question: did it even register the connection with the Beocenter? Why did I have nothing?
Hi Madskp and welcome to the game!
Do you remember what key you use to select the converter input o the Beocenter 6?
It could be useful also to double check the cable you used to connect the iPhone.For my first attempt and until then I’m using a stereo jack to din cable, the sale that I use to connect a source to any Beocenter AUX IN and it work well. The DIN is 5 pins so no Datalink at all.
After our different attempt I more prone to believe the behavior of the converter depends on what its on the other side of the Masterlink cable. But this still has to be confirmed.
Problem with deep research is, unless you find the perfect answer, the more you searh the more you get confused!
What we know for sure is, sometimes you need to press “AV+ video source” to trigger the converter, experienced by default with a Beolab 3500, And sometimes you need to press “any video source” for the same purpose, experienced by me when letting the converter autoconfig itself connected to a Beosound and preventing it to autoconfigure again (i.e. powering it first).
So in both case, it is a video master, triggered by a video source key, right?
Seems correct because I can’t find posts stating that you can start it with an Audio command.I would be very surprised that the solution will rely in a simple short between a datalink pin and the ground. But who knows?
As you I’m not sure to dare to try shorting pins randomly. There, a service manual could help.
What impressed me the most was when I got communication between the 3500 and the 2300. I mean, same amount of data exchange, handshake or whatever with only two pins, the same way than an ouverture with that big Masterlink connector full of a lot of pins? Impressive!
Now, using a 1611 to drive a Beolab 3500 seems to always have been a hack. So no wonder we can’t exactly do what we want with it. Because in that case it’s always someting missing: an “intelligent” device at the other end of the converter. One that identifies itself and unlock all commands, audio, video, etc…
Please Guy, don’t burn any equipment for science sakes, but lets continu our experiments as long as they’re safe.
Cheers.
Yes I think it does apply to Mk2 speakers.
I forgot to mention that part: yes it works. But what is the purpose of that command?
I think I’ve read something like “it allows to switch between MCL mode and ML mode” but that would apply to MK1 and LCS9000 units. On MK2 that has only ML and a frustrating useless Powerlink socket, what would be the use of turning off Masterlink?Ok, Morning Report:
Have connected My Beosound 2300 to the 1611 converter through a 7 pin DIN wire.
Powered up everything and after that the converter. At first it did not do anything, no rectin from the remote from the L.OPT 6 Beolab 3500 and of course none from A.OPT 0 BS2300.Tried frenetically a random sequence of power down power up etc, still nothing.
Then I tried to put everything in its previous state, meaning:
– Unplug everything from power.
– Unplug DIN and Masterlink,
– Plug back Masterlink only,
– Start the 3500 with AV+TV.Then I plugged back the DIN and “Pouf” it all worked as I believe it should, that is as it did work with a masterlink connection between my Ouverture and the 3500: source selection and volume control.
WIth the belief the converter was somehow “autoconfigured” in some sort of AUDIO mode, I un plugged power from the converter, the speaker, then unplugged the DIN, Plugged back an ordinary iPod cable, then power to the converter and finally power to the speaker.
And guess what? i saved a key! Now the speaker starts, still with a video source key (TV, SAT, V.TAPE, CDV…), but without the need to press the AV key before. Just what I was looking for.
After unplugging it all from mains and plug it back the same way: it work again with direct key selection.
Thanks to everybody who tried to help.
Hi Keith, thank you for chiming in.
That’s what I’m trying to avoid because for daily use this is not convenient.When I first tried it was in option 6: only AV+TV did work.
Then I tried Opt 4 or 5 cant remember and it did work the same way. I think I let it like that. I will check.Regarding ML or MCL mode does this apply even to MK2 speakers?
Firstly I hate soldering, especially fiddly little DIN
I understand, this morning I was close to give up just because I had to make a 7/7 din wire.
Especially Chinese ebay cheap plug that melt even before anything was solder!About VHS to HDMI, dont forget (I think) that there is two kind of HDMI, one that carry analogue and the other taht dont and that will never accept analogue signal wirhout an active converter (fancy that: converter!).
Cheers.
They are many Beolink converter 1611 owners manuals all with differents diagrams. I have seen at least three and each time its not clear if the data flaow uspside or downside. Text is not of a great halp either. Maybe the last iteration, if anybody has one are more clear.
Ok, but would be shorting a datalink pin to ground the same as leaving it in the air from the 1611 perspective? SO why then does it starts as a videomaster by default?
Also note that after my attempts this morning with the BS2300, the 1611 was able to start with one key, but still a video key, not an audio key. I’ve tried A.TAPE, CD and cant remember right now but all the audio key present on a SAT beo4 and a Beolink 5000.
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