[Madskp]

Ok so I got it disassembled. Pretty easy when using your instructions.

But I can see that even though the cross section is the same in the entire lenght of the pole the threaded holes is only about an inch deep and stops where a reces is cut into the cross section

So in order to cut down the lenght of it new holes will have to be drilled and threaded at the place where it is cut.

This would require some drilling equipment that I do not have, so I guess this will not be the way to go.

The reason for investegating this option was that I have the stand and might as well use it if possible. However I might look into other placement options, and/or maybe the smaller BC6-23 as an option

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

When upside down you will see an opening (hole), possibly covered by a sticker. Rotate the stand on its base until the hole lines up with the pole and you will see the four screws. As you can see in my photo, there is usually a DIN connecter within the pole to lengthen the motor control cable for the floor stands.

Great info when tI’m going to take it appart.

Guy wrote:

My photo was from a job lots of 5 stands (plus wall mount) that I bought from ‘cashconverters’ for about £40. The 5th stand was for a BV10-32 which was all I wanted, so I sold all the others, got a ‘free’ BV10 stand and made a small profit!

Yeah sometimes you can be lucky. My BV6 stand only cost me 10€ in a trift store and it have som scractches in the big round plate so no gonna cry if this is not going to end up well

[Madskp]

Thanks for that.

I am thinking about a 10-20cm reduction to make it usable under an angled roof.

Great if the screw situation is not a problem. I will try to disassemble and look into it

[Madskp]

Hi

I have the same problem with my BC2. I have just updated my thread about the same issue

https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/forums/topic/beocenter-2-cd-tray-belt/#post-29800

I will report back when I receive the belts and tell if they make a difference

[Madskp]

Having dismantled the whole CD tray to get a more precise measurement of the Belt I have now measured it to 29mm outside diameter.

I have found an Ebay seller who has belts in the right thickness with both 25mm and 26mm inside diameter.

Have ordered some and will see if the will work.

[Madskp]

Very nice writeup of the procedure.

I will indeed save that for further reference

[Madskp]

theoz wrote:

I have the cable but the wires are black, red, yellow, white and shield

I don’t think you can rely on the colors of the wires in this case.

It might be an “unofficial” cable mounted on your IR eye, so you might have to open it up to check the placement of each wire.

Do note that there are several versions of the round IR eye shown above, and while +5V, IR and ground are compatible between the different versions the other signals are not.

Edit: The diffrent versions are shown in the Beolink Handbook (the above drawings are from that) which can be found online.

 

[Madskp]

I have now bought both the heat unit and the socket unit from the same seller. I ended up paying a resonable price for both including shipping.

The Head unit was advertised as having difficulties with playing CD’s.

I have yet to test this as the door mechanism as expected also has some issues which is certanly the rubber band giving issues.

Also the CD clamper might need some adjustments as well as the clamper mechanism which dos not seem to reach the bottom and has problems getting the CD to land on its spindle. This might also be related to a rubber band for this mechanism.

The display is not having issues, and the PIN code that was set is now disables so hopefully that might not give me issues.

The coating on both the head unit and the socket unit is still in ok condition, but it might be a matter of time. The CD tray was also coated in this and was very sticky, This I have now removed to preserve the discs I put int it.

To be continued

[Madskp]

One extra note. The control of the CD only works when the BS5 is in opt. 6 (probably also 5), but not in option 2.

So my guess is that when in option 2 working as and audio master it can not take extra sources from other audio masters.

But when in option 6 it is working as a link room and can get the source from the Audio master ( in this case the 1611). I can also control a Beocord 3500 by using the Link + A.MEM command which makes sense as the A.MEM command is in use for internal source (spotify) on the BS5.

[Madskp]

Just remembered that N.music was = A.MEM when I first started the BS5. Tried to bring back that setting, and now I can control my Beogram CD4500 via MCL2AV and 1611.

The BS5 even tell you to insert a disk in the CD player (text on the picture is in danish

[Madskp]

Madskp wrote:

B3OHACK3R wrote: Madskp wrote: Also I can activate CD and Radio and get a Beogram CD 4500 playing and controlled via an MCL2AV. Interesting. Was the BS5 set up with the audio master (AM) option enabled? Yes it was. I don’t think I can do it when it’s not, bit I will have to test that again to be sure.

I tried to redo this test, and for some reason I can’t replicate it.

With just the 1611 converter connected to the BM5 (A master = yes, opt. 2) I can select the TV source (which shows on the BS5 display) and get the sound from that input on the 1611.

However for some reason the BM5 is very slow to execute the command, and the text on the display changes to V.MEM which doesn’t make much difference when I only have the 1611 connected, but still weird.

The CD command does not give any reaction from the BM5 at all now. I Have tried both in option 2 and 6.

If I choose Audio master = No I cannot use the remote control at all to control the BS5.

[Madskp]

Tignum wrote:

Is it possible that it has to do with the possibility to ‘rename’ the BeoSound 5’s N.MUSIC to CD or A.MEM?

Yes I guess thats it. I will have to try if I can somehow free up the tape command, but then the CD command probably will be used by an internal source instead.

Tignum wrote:

Though you say that it is possible to use CD and RADIO? That would make my suggestion at least inconsistent. Anyway, maybe it helps in finding the answer. Regards, Johan

It’s always great to have some inputs and pointers for the things you do not think about yourself, so thank you for the input.

[Madskp]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Madskp wrote: Also I can activate CD and Radio and get a Beogram CD 4500 playing and controlled via an MCL2AV. Interesting. Was the BS5 set up with the audio master (AM) option enabled?

Yes it was. I don’t think I can do it when it’s not, bit I will have to test that again to be sure.

B3OHACK3R wrote:

What I still have on my list of things to test: If the internal BS5 sources are set to CD and Radio (also AM = yes) – will it forward N.Radio and N.Music “source center” requests to ML like a BS9000 / BC2 etc would do? If yes, that would be cool but I have some doubts that they enabled that in software.

I guess I could try to do a test where I set the BS5 up to have the CD command for internal music, and the Radio command for internet radio. Then if I have a Beoport connected via masterlink I should be able to test if the BS5 can fetch the source from that

[Madskp]

Tignum wrote:

Madskp wrote:

Next issue the sticky black coating []

Hi Madskp, I managed to rub off the sticky coating with methylated spirit (the blue smelly stuff), and found a gloss black paint underneath. My original idea was to have the housing sandblasted and powdercoated, but I abandoned that and am happy enough with the original black (undercoating) paint. Saves quite a bit of (dis)assembly. Maybe worth a try? Regards, Johan

I have tried that now and also IPA (not the beer) and both seems to do the job. It requires a bit of rubbing but eventually the sticky stuff will come of.

The surfaces tædo have some scratches to the metal in a few spots where the rubber had melted back over the scracth so might need a repaint at some point in the future. But it is not tha visible at is on the backside and now it is at least not sticky anymore 🙂

[Madskp]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Wasn’t A.MEM used for Spotify when it was still working? If you haven’t set it up (which you can’t nowadays) it will probably just ignore that source command.

Of course, thats probably it. Could be great if it could be redirected to ML though

[Madskp]

I managed to get hold of another motherboard for the BM5, the 1,5Ghz version for aaround 40€ including shipment and another mini itx motherboard.

I have installed the replacement motherboard, updated the BIOS and done a restore.

Although it took some boot loops and manuel restarts it now seems like it is running like it should.

Next issue the sticky black coating, and a broken glass on the BS5 head unit.

[Madskp]

Another idea for a usecase for this adapter:

As systems like BC2, BS3000/3200, BS4 and BS9000 does not have datalink control of the Aux connection the adapter could be used to have tape2 and phono available via Masterlink and control connected record and tape players.

This would require the use of datalin80 on the datalink connection, but I gues that is not a limitation hardware vise

 

[Madskp]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Pretty straight forward to make that available as the N.Radio / Phono source on ML then.

Nice. I guess that it could also be served to NL devices as well?

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Unlike the “Univeral Link Adapter” project the MDT does not have a built-in RIAA equalizer. So it either needs a BeoGram with normal line-out or an external RIAA.

That I think is ok. Then people can choose which price/quality they want, and people who already has a RIAA or a turntable with a built in RIAA do not have to pay extra for that feature

[Madskp]

eil047 wrote:

Just to complete the list: a MasterLink Gateway is also an option (if

Even though I am not sure of the capabilities of the MLGW it will not be able to do anything for the BS1 and the Century

[Madskp]

Thats a tough one.

The BS9000 (and maybe the BS2500) can probably be set to option 4 where it only accept commands when Link is pressed before the command.

Also if acceptable some units could be set to option 0 where they do not react to the remote and therefor only have local control.

Another option is a plastic cower (I dont know what the real naming gor it is) to reduce the IR signal strenght of the BEO4

[Author]

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