[kronzilla]

You need the correct glue, and let them dry. The ones from the speakerrepairshop is water based.

Strange that they came loose again. Was the glue old or did you not used enough glue?

[kronzilla]

Ik heb de betreffende speaker getest en merkte iets op, als ik de speaker op lijningang zet klikt het relais en schakelt de versterker even uit maar schakelt direct weer in. Als ik vervolgens overschakel naar de L- of R-powerlink (met de stroom aan), hoor ik na een tijdje de speaker uitgaan, maar de LED blijft groen. Als ik de luidspreker uit- en weer aanzet, hoor ik niets, dus de versterker blijft uitgeschakeld. Als ik hem met PowerLink verbind, speelt hij gewoon af en gaat uit, maar de LED blijft altijd groen… Heeft iemand enig idee wat het zou kunnen zijn?

[kronzilla]

I tested the speaker in question and noticed something, when I put the speaker on line input, the relay clicks and the amplifier switches off briefly but switches back on immediately. If I then switch to L or R power link (with the power on), I hear the speaker go out after a while, but the LED remains green. If I turn the speaker off and back on, I hear nothing so the amplifier remains off. If I connect it with PowerLink, it just plays and goes out, but the LED always remains green… Anyone have any idea what it could be?

[kronzilla]

I have 3 pairs, and i upgraded a mk1 version to mk2 so i know alot of them. If you power them up , on powerlink L or R, the red lightust come up, not the green one…

[kronzilla]

Zoals ik al zei, gister had je jet efffect van een oranje knipperend ledje icm de groene led, nu is er niets oranje, alleen direct groen. Ik heb op een niet hoge luidsterkte geluisterd dus thermische protectie is onmogelijk.

[kronzilla]

Had op instagram gechat met een B&O winkel in Canada en die konden mij dat toen ook zeggen. Wel spectaculair frequentiebereik voor zo kleine speakers

[kronzilla]

Motorman wrote:

Its a axial 33µF 16V Capacitor. I just exchaned it on a Beogram CD7000: Old: New: I used a radial 33µF 25V one. It worked like a dream.

indeed. i read somewhere that you need to take a normal high esr elco, a low esr elco does not work there …

[kronzilla]

little update, I did test the CPU module in a perfect working bm3500. Works perfectly. Then I connected the ir receiver and the touch panel from the bad responding bm and same problem. The touch panel is newer, with an additional ir module facing upwards, and 2 extra wires and connectors from the ir receiver board. So what can I do to fix that problem? As I said, works with remote. Same problem without glass plate. So no response from sound, aux, tape 1, tape 2,

What does work: Mute, volume up down, phono cd radio and go on.

Anybody suggestions?

Thank you in advance

[kronzilla]

I think why you prefer the lab 9 vs the lab20… lab9 uses class a/b for tweeter and midtoner, it has a more comforting and not ear fatige sound, the lab20 uses for all the speakers ICEpower class D

[kronzilla]

Heb een Beolink 7000, vandaar dat mijn meeste producten 2-way zijn (except mijn 3500 en Century) dus een 3000 wil ik niet omdat het geen 2-weg communicatie is en geen cdm-4 laser dus geen 16bit dac ?.

Ik ga eens zien voor een foto, een 9500 past net qua diepte, qua breedteheb ik 30cm over. De 7000 is met zilver, compleet met de sraaitafel, lijkt leuk 2 op elkaar en 2 naast elkaarmaar kabels zijnwel erg zichtbaar dan terwijl bvb 2300 of 4500 of 9500 niet dat probleem hebben…

[kronzilla]

Hello Martin,

It seems that i did not find the method described, or i overlooked it. Would you be so kind to write it down here for me? ?

Thank you for the fast reply

 

David

[kronzilla]

Hello Martin,

Thank you ??

I did not read it in the manual. Feeling a little dumb now ??

David

[kronzilla]

If you search as example in the beomaster 3500/4500 manual, they describe ONLY use 8 ohm speakers. In the long therm the amp and other components will fail due the higher current with 4 ohm speakers. I would stick to 8 ohm for that reason.

[kronzilla]

You see a picture of the motor, they seems the same like the sliding doors for the beosound century or beocenter 2500. Does it matter that they both have a differend number? So i can buy the 2 on the picture as replacemwnts for the original squealing ones from the beocord and cd 3500…

[kronzilla]

I used Barrierta grease L55/3 ( it did cost 50€ for 30gr in 2009)The belt i bought from Beoparts. Expensive but it is the exact measurments and thickness. And Lisa provided me with pictures and help. Most belts from ebay are too thick it seems so i did not want to take the risk.

[kronzilla]

Seems that it’s not the motors but the gearboxrs. Somebody has an exploded vieuw of them? I dont want to take them apart before i know how to re-assemble them

[kronzilla]

You need the serial number and a picture of the front of the speakers without the cloth fronts. You can post it here so then we can helpp you further.

Better a pic of the serial numbers, woofers and between the speaker and cooling block ( to see if the foam was cut or not.

R you can send me a pm.

[kronzilla]

Hello @redrazor, where do you live?

[kronzilla]

Any idea where to search? Because everything works perfect, except that the lower display is not lit. I switched the complete lower 3 pcb’s for a spare (who i know works) but still no light on the displays. Touch- control is working as it should.

The lower display cable is entering the processor module. Maybe there is something wrong with the processor pcb?

[kronzilla]

I don’t know, need to check that.

But from the one to another day, the display brightness turned from 100% to 50%. I put the system in storage unused for about a year, after a year i powered it up, everything works except the bottom display, stayed dark.

[Author]

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