[Guy]

How is the TV linked around the house? Does this use masterlink and coax, or some kind of hdmi matrix system?

Even if it’s the former, I tested a setup with my BV10-32 and found that the ATV picture was distributed. Picture quality was poor, as expected from rf distribution.

[Guy]

I was thinking that the headphones would be able to control the volume output of the BT transmitter. Perhaps not!

Anyway, instead just connect the BS9000’s variable Powerlink output to the BT transmitter, and connect the fixed output (from the adaptor) to the Moment’s line-in.

[Guy]

eprokos wrote:

correct??

Yes. This will provide a fixed BS9000 line-level output to the BT transmitter, and a variable output to the Moment (I said Core by mistake earlier, sorry). The only difficulty is making sure that the connector from the splitter to the BT transmitter is from the DIN output pins (1&4) rather than the input pins (3&5). Many people find it easier to use a lead like this which provides both inputs and outputs: https://soundsheavenly.com/bang-olufsen/154-2336-5-pin-din-to-4-x-rca-input-and-output-cable-for-bo-naim-quad.html#/2-length-1m

If there are no Powerlink speakers connected directly to the BS9000, I think you will also need one of these to maintain remote control: https://soundsheavenly.com/bang-olufsen/141-2309-beosound-9000-speaker-sense-adapter-gives-remote-control-functions-when-no-speakers-are-connected.html#/18-colour-black

It is probably worth contacting Steve at Sounds Heavenly to confirm (or otherwise) that my suggestions will work!

[Guy]

The BS9000 AUX socket can be an input and output at the same time, but at the very least you’d need one of these cables to do both: https://soundsheavenly.com/bang-olufsen/11-312-7-pin-aux-splitter-dual-aux-tape-input-sockets.html#/20-length-02m

And then connect from the adaptor’s second socket to your Beosound Core Moment – I am not sure if Sounds Heavenly provide a cable to do this direct because you need the output to come from DIN pins 1 and 4.

Alternatively you could take an audio output from one of the BS9000’s Powerlink sockets, remembering that the volume will be variable (which might not be a problem if in A.OPT 0, or you are not using an IR remote. )

[Guy]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

No, please don’t do that. As Madskp wrote ML requires a special receiver and transmitter circuit operating at low voltages +/- 0.25 V. It’s definitely not available in the BS1 according to the service manual. My best guess is that it’s an exposed serial port of the microcontroller. Either use an oscilloscope or a logic analyser to see if something is coming out there. If it’s valid serial data then you could talk to it with something like the FTDI TTL-234X-5V.

Thanks for advice @B3OHACK3R! I will leave that thought alone and start saving for an oscilloscope!

[Guy]

This is not something that I am currently working on, but I have made an interesting (to me!) observation during my recent tests using iPhone inputs to Beolink Converter 1611/BL3500.

Like many legacy B&O enthusiasts, I have amassed a number of 3.5mm to 5 pin (or 7 pin) DIN connectors, useful for connecting such devices as iPhones or Airport Express to B&O DIN aux sockets. Typical connector shown below:

In testing, I noticed that two of my four connection leads have the L&R channels reversed!

In the 3.5mm ‘headphone’ plug, the tip is ‘left’, the ring is ‘right’ and the sleeve is ‘ground’. For a B&O DIN input, left is pin 3, right is pin 5 and ground is pin 2 – with the pins numbered as shown below (solder side of 7-pin plug shown):

Pins 3 and 5 are incorrectly reversed in two of my leads, including the one in the photo above.

EDIT: For clarity, here’s one of the late Peter Pan’s excellent diagrams, where ‘venstre’ is ‘left’ and ‘højre’ is ‘right’:

Obviously you can check with a multimeter, or just connect up a phone and adjust the balance. On the iPhone the balance control is strangely hidden under Settings > Accessibility > Audio & Visual, as shown below:

I hope this is useful!

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

Maybe not a good idea as the Masterlink data is something like 0.25V

Good point! I will hold back from that!

One other thought: My original BeoSound 1 (used for tests) is at SW version 1.3, and my newer one at SW1.4. I think that the later BS1s (with built in clock) have SW versions 2.X. – I doubt that there are any differences and if anything B&O would probably reduce any link capability in the newer versions. Any idea of your parents’ BS1 SW version?

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

But now you will need an extra room for that in your new house

I will be happy with just one ‘museum’ room with lots of shelving and power points!

Glitch wrote:

I’ve had a similar feeling after getting something working with a full “recap/reflow”

My recap of a BeoLink 5000 (7 caps total) was about as ambitious as I get. Despite being successful, it was enough to put me off soldering for life! I can’t imagine tackling some of those larger projects!

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

I a pretty sure that the audio part will work, but more interesting if the data will. For one thing which commands should be used? But you could try something like Link + CD or AV + CD.

Yes I anticipate that the lack of Commands/Option Settings may be a constraint, but could be worth trying a few funny commands such as LINK and AV, so thanks for that.

Madskp wrote:

Another thing is that it can only be set to option 0 or 1, so no way to select which is a link room. However if this is/was an attempt of a new type of link system, the role definition might not be the same as in the older systems

Yes I am struggling to think of a ‘use case’ where two BS1s (two audiomasters?) are connected in separate rooms, but it could be an interesting test nevertheless.

Perhaps we should try connecting the BS1’s Data + and Data – to a Masterlink device Data in/out (pins 1 and 2) and see what happens? If I am feeling brave I could try it with my BV10-32, but I wouldn’t know what to connect to the ‘ML sense’ pin 3.

[Guy]

Most are on ‘Main Web Site’ then ‘Products’ and look for link bottom left as follows:

https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/manuals.asp

But following migration, some are on this newer forum page top right – as follows:

https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/beoworld-document-library/

EDIT: And Happy New Year too! ?

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

You can also try to measure voltage on pin 6 and 7 on your devices just to see if you also have the 5V on pin 6

I just checked – same results for me (exactly as in your first post).

It’s a shame that the 5V is always there, not just when turned on, as that could have been useful.

Also, it would be quite useful to be able to turn the BS1 on via the AUX input, for instance when I start airplaying to a connected Airport Express.

[Guy]

That’s a tricky spot to do a neat install! I’d be tempted to use one of those cable management boxes to hide the power strip and any adaptors. It might not be large enough but I have found these D-Link ones to be good value: https://www.diy.com/departments/d-line-small-black-cable-tidy-unit/203420_BQ.prd

EDIT: I just used my moderator super-powers to rotate your first photo upright!

[Guy]

Now that I have my second BeoSound 1 (see here), I wondered if it could be worth making a 7-pin DIN ‘crossover’ cable and joining the two together. Thus ‘audio out’ would become ‘audio in’ in the second, and more interestingly data-out would connect to data-in and vice versa. I don’t have time for the next few days but it could be worth a try!

 

[Guy]

I ‘won’ a spares-or-repair BeoSound 1 (my second!) yesterday on eBay, and collected it to avoid the risk of damage in the post. The listing stated that the CD player wasn’t working, so I was quite looking forward to stripping it down and attempting a repair.

Anyway I plugged it in and tested – sure enough any CD would start to spin and then stop/eject. I gave the lens a little clean and tried again but there was no difference. Out of interest I then went to Service Mode and it showed CD module errors: OF6 and OF10. I then tried a couple of the CD tests – just the first two from the list below (focus and then turntable on/off):

I then took it out of Service Mode and tried the CD again and it worked flawlessly! I can only assume that the focus was stuck and the Service Mode tests got it moving again. I have tried several CDs including a couple that won’t play in my other BS1, and all is well. Strangely I can’t help being disappointed that it wasn’t more of a challenge to fix!

The only other fault was that the aerial protruded about 5mm when in the down position. I realised that it just needed a few clockwise turns to screw it down fully into the mechanism.

Here it is in position in the lounge after further cleaning:

[Guy]

Guy wrote:

If I get a chance this week I will connect my OneRemote radio to my BS1 aux and do some further tests using my adaptor to switch data between the two pins, plus trying the OneRemote in ‘AAL’ mode as if connected to a BL1611 (I don’t think that I tried that before).

I experimented with various permutations of settings yesterday. I tried the OneRemote radio in various different cablelink ‘modes’, both for normal datalink and AAL and tried most of the source triggers (incl video, audio and PC). Each mode was tried with data to pin 7 and then separately to pin 6. There was no response in any of these setups.

[Guy]

BS3000 also has no datalink but shows ‘DL’ connections to pins 6 and 7 in the circuit diagram:

Specification pages state pins 6 and 7 ‘not used’

EDIT: But for the BS3000 the manual does also say ‘N.C.’ no connection where it joins the microprocessor interface PCB.

[Guy]

Strange that the data connections are shown in the service manual. Perhaps they are disconnected internally and/or the software was never made compatible.

If I get a chance this week I will connect my OneRemote radio to my BS1 aux and do some further tests using my adaptor to switch data between the two pins, plus trying the OneRemote in ‘AAL’ mode as if connected to a BL1611 (I don’t think that I tried that before).

[Guy]

I am not sure whether the part is compatible, but even if it is there could well be a requirement for a dealer software update for the BV7-40 – see here: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/30066/239251.aspx#239251

A more modern set-top box is likely to have a better user interface anyway, and possibly better performance especially if you are after DVB-S2 rather than DVB-S.

EDIT: Here’s the fitting guide that was referred to in that other thread: https://beoworld.dev.idslogic.net/download.asp?file=DVBST-BeoVision7-40MKIII-fittingguide-eng.pdf

[Guy]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld! We don’t get many questions about Beo1/BV1 so it is nice to see a new challenge!

I am not aware of any procedure for pairing the remote, or for telling the TV which remote to respond to.

However, this old thread may be of use – it explains how to get a Beo1 to behave like a Beo4, which I suppose could solve your problem: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/29071.aspx?PageIndex=1

EDIT: Can I just check that this is the Beo1 to which you refer, rather than the newer (and very different) BeoRemote One?

[Guy]

Do your passive speakers still work with the BeoCenter?

Are you sure that you haven’t removed/dislodged the little line in/out connector on the rear of the BC9500? (Just above the Powerlink 1 socket)

Otherwise yes wait and test the speakers with a phone adaptor.

[Author]

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