[filip_kbh]

The error is somewhere in that amp.

I just switched the two amps around, and then the display does not work in the other speaker where it worked before.

[filip_kbh]

I now had time to test everything. So the good news is that the display works on one of the pentas. Using the same cable, making sure that the audio/video button is set to audio, the display of the other penta is still not working. Argh.

I made a continuity test from the pins of the attached powerlink MKII cable to the connectors on the powerlink of the actual speaker (with the amplifier completely disconnected). All connections worked out fine.

When connecting the powerlink cable to the amp, the continuity test is a bit strange. I get no continuity on pins 1, 4 and 7 in the Auto mode. I believe pin 4 is data. Any ideas where I should be looking next?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[filip_kbh]

Glad that the video helped you. Hopefully it will be of use to many others, avoiding unnecessary replacement of the laser unit. Perhaps this thread could be renamed to “Beosound 9000 how to fix the laser” in order for more people to discover it.

[filip_kbh]

Or it needs a proper cleaning. There is a thread called “Beosound 9000, how to fix the laser” that links to a video on how to clean the laser under the lens and mirror.

[filip_kbh]

Hmmm – my guess is – since it’s a 59xx Beogram – that a small plastic tap has broken off where the wire attaches. There are some good posts about it on the forum.

[filip_kbh]

However, one problem remains. The displays do not work in either of the speakers. I have them connected to a Beomaster 7000 with a Powerlink Mk2 cable, and the selector at the bottom of the speaker is on Audio. The display in at least one of the speakers worked before I recapped the amplifier and the crossover boards. I did not test the other before I started the rejuvenation.

[filip_kbh]

So, it was the soldering but not in the actual connector. It was the damn Powerlink cable where the Data Ground had snatched off. After repairing the cable, the display works! Thank you for all the help.

[filip_kbh]

Yes, that area appears to have been hot sometime in the past. It was the same area in both speaker amps. I don’t know the history of the speakers. I bought them from an elderly lady, and she threw in a Beolab 3500 plus cables and connectors for the quite modest price of 263 dollars for all of it. I wasn’t exactly thrilled about getting the Beolab 3500 and immediately put it up for sale. However, it does not appear that it is in demand, so I guess I will mount it in my bedroom. I just need a 1611 converter box.

Glitch – can you tell me where the “lower display connectors” are found? Do you mean in the lower board of the two, or is it found in another place than where the displays are mounted?

[filip_kbh]

Clear – thanks. Will check the soldering on that connector.

[filip_kbh]

I hang my head in shame. I used the wrong setting on my multimeter, choosing ADC instead of VDC. So there was no problem at all. The DC current is now between 0 and -1 mV. Sorry for the thread.

[filip_kbh]

Thanks. I hope so.

Indeed it did work before the recap but was getting luke-warm at even low volumes so I presume the idle current was too high (or the dense layer of dust in it caused it). I have re-attached the black ground wire (hopefully to the right place – the solderpoint to the left of D9).

 

 

 

 

 

 

[filip_kbh]

I am currently using

4 x Beolab 8000

1 x Beolab 2

1 Beolab 7-4

together with my Beosystem 7000 and Almando. I have just acquired (well, I am going to fetch them tomorrow night) 2 x Beolab Penta Mk. III (price in Denmark 258 USD), and after restoring them, they will take over for two of the Beolab 8000s in my surround setup.

[filip_kbh]

I guess you mean your Beocord 6500. If the drawer will not open, you can gently pull it out. The tape should be possible to lift up from the side closest to you.

[filip_kbh]

Thank you for part 1. I could also read that you made some modifications so that the sound does not ‘exit’ the amplifier to go through the blind plug, saving quite a bit of signal path. Any advice on how to do this?

[filip_kbh]

Beolit 700 – replacing the dial cord.

Argh – that took a long time and there was a learning curve. First of all finding the right diagram for the cord path – look in the service manual for Beolit 500, because the one found in the service manual for Beolit 700 shows something completely different. After fiddling with the damn string – that I got for free in a Danish fishing equipment store – for literally hours, I figured that I should have a different approach. In the beginning I had tied both ends to the spring which proved to be a huge mistake. New approach: Tie one end to the spring, wind the string four times around the tuner dial knob, wrap it in the correct path and then tie the second end to the string and then snap the spring back down. Job done. Now I just need a few pills for my headache.

[filip_kbh]

Just my few cents here. Everyone says that the laser needs to be replaced but I found that not to be necessary at all.

I was given a Beosound Century by a lady for free (my luck), and she said that the CD didn’t work (well, the cassette also had problems and the remote control also had issues, all of which were easy to fix). True enough. It would spin a few times and refuse to play most CDs. I came across a video on YouTube that showed how to clean the lens and the mirror behind it, and that did the trick. It was a bit fiddly but not too demanding even for a novice. The video is here: https://youtu.be/qXGubkovMEE?t=345

 

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