[ebnrob]

On doubleola said

@ebnrob,

Thanks for sharing your setup on BS 9000. I was originally going to plug the Beogram directly into the BS Core, but will leave it in the auxiliary of the BS9000 as you suggested. Could you clarify how you integrate the NL/ML converter into the BS Core?

Btw! I had a Beoconnect Core on loan from my dealer and decided I was better off with the BS Core for the exact reasons you mentioned regarding Mozart platform integration challenges. I also found my current Roon Nucleus to USB Audio in my BL50 was better and I will be getting a EverSolo DMP-A8 Digital Media Player Streamer which also allows native integration of Apple Music soon for Hi-res streaming.

Sure. In the NL/ML config web page, set the converter role to V Master and IR option 2, then save. In the Network Link section I have the friendly name set to BeoSound 9000, and Connect to Primary as the Core. Then save. Switch to the experience mapped to NL and make sure CD and A.MEM is enabled and save.

Now go to the Core’s configuration page. Click Settings, then Beolink. Link to other products. Under Connect to Primary select the NL/ML converter and save. Go back to the first screen of the config page, and select Your content, Sources, In local list, and tick the BS9000’s sources you’d like to see in the core, so choose CD and A.MEM and save.

You’ll then probably need to power the converter and the BS9000 down for 3 mins. Unplug any power link connections you have from the BS9000, so all you are left with is masterlink to the converter, Then turn the BS9000 on, then the converter.

You should now be able to select CD as a source in the B&O app on the core 🙂

[ebnrob]

Sure. In the NL/ML config web page, set the converter role to V Master and IR option 2, then save. In the Network Link section I have the friendly name set to BeoSound 9000, and Connect to Primary as the Core. Then save. Switch to the experience mapped to NL and make sure CD and A.MEM is enabled and save.

Now go to the Core’s configuration page. Click Settings, then Beolink. Link to other products. Under Connect to Primary select the NL/ML converter and save. Go back to the first screen of the config page, and select Your content, Sources, In local list, and tick the BS9000’s sources you’d like to see in the core, so choose CD and A.MEM and save.

You’ll then probably need to power the converter and the BS9000 down for 3 mins. Unplug any power link connections you have from the BS9000, so all you are left with is masterlink to the converter, Then turn the BS9000 on, then the converter.

You should now be able to select CD as a source in the B&O app on the core 🙂

[ebnrob]

Re. the beogram.. I have mine plugged into the Aux in of the BS9000. The NL converter then makes it accessible throughout the house.

[ebnrob]

Humax are selling Freeview HD (DVB-T2) boxes in the UK. I don’t know if they still use InfraRed for remote control though – if so, it might still work with the PUC IR blaster you can plug into the back of the BV7.

[ebnrob]

Mjoelnir wrote:

Yet another ugly plastic box and another power cable? That’s not really B&O like. Why did B&O actually never upgrade the Beolab 18 to WLAN in its 10 year life span? That would have been the obvious thing to do.

I prefer speakers as speakers. Connected tech and services become obsolete or are discontinued very quickly. The powerlink input allows one to upgrade the streaming box and keep the same speakers.

[ebnrob]

Mjoelnir wrote:

In the press pictures, the Beoconnect Core is always displayed together with a pair Beolab 18s and a Beogram turntable of the 4000 series. Beolab 18s without cables, that is… These are exactly the products I have, and as I would like to have the Beolab 18s work wirelessly, I was very excited about the news of the Beoconnect Core. Even though I bought everything less than a month ago, I was willing to replace my Core by a new one. Now I read that this is actually a hoax, and my wireless Beolab 18s will always be bound to cables? Not cool.

You could buy a Beolab Transmitter 1 to make your connection from the core wireless to the beolab 18s. They are relatively inexpensive on eBay.

[ebnrob]

Severed_hand_of_skywalker wrote:

I think the reason it doesn’t have WISA is that you need to keep the WiFi and WISA antennas pretty far apart and since this thing is made out of aluminum other than the top (glass?) there is no space for both transmitters.

Almando did it in a bigger plastic box (looks like the essence case):
https://www.av-connection.com/?PGr=17263

This Almando box, with the addition of Mozart, is what the new core with hdmi input should have been.

[ebnrob]

Sandyb wrote:

The BCC product sheet says “limited control for 3rd party TVs” with BR1. No separate / specific mention of LG.

Must just be HDMI CEC control then.

[ebnrob]

Features that I think are missing from this new core:

Separate optical and analogue-in connectors.

Buttons on the device for play/pause, Next/Prev & Join

WISA transmitter

IR input

An option to have a core with built-in amp would be good – like the Wiim Amp. I have a core feeding an old beolink passive amp via powelink, so such a device could replace both.

Personally I don’t see the value of the HDMI input without an integrated surround decoder & multiple powerlink outs for channel assignment.

 

[ebnrob]

I’m wondering if the mozart platform can now “borrow” sources from other devices, like the previous ASL platform can? I use this to access my turntable (connected to a BS core) and BS9000 cd player (NL/ML converter) from other rooms without having to Join. Last time I checked it couldn’t.

[ebnrob]

I also only have Line In as an available source on my ASE speakers after this update on my iPhone. B&O support seem unaware of the issue, suggesting deleting the app, and re-installing it! The new app clearly hasn’t been tested on ASE devices. There is also no TV remote for my Beovision 11.

 

[ebnrob]

Thanks @Stan.

@Hiort – As you didn’t complete the Google Setup, were you able to set the Wifi settings in the B&O config without Google? And are you able to perform Bluetooth pairing in the B&O app/ config webpage like other speakers?

I also wonder whether the four beoremote one preset buttons are married up to the ones on the top of the speaker, when a remote is paired, or whether they can function separately.

Many thanks. Rob.

[ebnrob]

Thank you all for the replies. That’s disappointing the buttons can’t be assigned to activate local sources.

@Hiort – what does the centre button do now you’ve disabled Google? Play/Pause?

Rob.

[ebnrob]

I’m also waiting patiently for this issue of the secondary linked products not being accessible in the local list menu to be fixed. It affects all of my ASE products on the new firmware with b&o Radio.

[ebnrob]

matador wrote:

Hi enrob, It was there a spamGPT answer that point to a faulty ribbon cable and warning you to be careful when opening the device to check this part. I mention this because this is not totally dumb. Nevertheless I believe those answer are as useful as a picture of the Pope in white puffy jacket running away from the police. You’ve already explore the old forums so you may already know most of what wiz know on this common issue, most digitizers ends up developing a touch fault. Sometimes its the ribbon cable but sometimes it’s not. Think someone explored another track on this but I dont remember he found a solution. Good luck.

Thanks Matador.

Mr ChatGPT makes a good point. Since posting this though I bought a “New, old stock” replacement beo6 screen that came with a new ribbon cable attached to the screen, only to find after fitting it that this one also had a fault where the very top right didn’t register touches meaning the top page right arrow couldn’t be pressed! Such a shame as it made the beo6 look new again. The seller kindly gave me a full refund for the inconvenience. In both cases I believe it to be the digitizer at fault. So I am on the lookout for a low cost donor beo6 on ebay…

[ebnrob]

What’s the link?

[ebnrob]

Have you tried power cycling it?

[ebnrob]

I’ve also had this same issue for many months, so thanks for posting this. I’ll update the app and will see if it works now for me too.

[ebnrob]

Madskp wrote:

Guy wrote:

Following with interest still! It’s a shame that Timer selection didn’t make any difference as there was a glimmer of hope there!

Yes I was just beginning to see something that might be what we were looking for in the first place. I thin I will try to test with the 1611 and the Powerlink connector on that again in combination with the timer thing the newt time I have time to do a test

That’s a shame the timer didn’t work. The Almando Masterplay is connected via masterlink though, could this Reddit chap be putting the voltage onto the masterlink pins rather than the DIN? Rob.

[ebnrob]

Go to General Preference>User and groups and select your main account. Then in the “opening” tab add iTunes. (Names may differ a little sine I use a French OS but you should find your way.

Thank you for this tip! Ive now got it opening itunes and mounting the NAS music folder share too at startup 🙂

I’m now thinking I could create an os/x virtual machine in virtualbox on my windows server for running this which would save on running costs.

 

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