[Dillen]

In your case:
A leaky diode, perhaps.
A broken copper trace somewhere, perhaps.
A failing SO switch, perhaps.
Any combination – or something completely different.
It’s impossible to diagnose a problem like this from a distance, and the more you
replace, the bigger the risk of introducing new problems, making it even harder to diagnose.
It’s always easier to locate a fault that was caused from “natural” reasons, like aging etc. than one caused by “something been done”.
Blanket replacing components is a typical cause for strange faults.
Anything can happen – wrong components, wrong polarization, bad solder joints, shorts etc. It can give even experienced repairers a good run for their money.
And it wouldn’t fix f.e. a broken copper trace.

You will have to measure around a bit and diagnose the problem properly.
Or take the Beogram to someone who can do it. These decks are worth any repair.

Martin

[Dillen]

1. Possible.
2. Possible.
3. Not possible without the proper instruments for setting the trimmers.
3a. Possible.
3b. One of the worst things you could do.
3c. Worse than 3b.
4. Asking never hurts.

Don’t forget:
5. Get the proper instruments and learn how to do it right yourself.
6. Leave the alignment to someone who can do it.

In your case, respectfully keeping 4 in mind, I’d say 6 would be the cheapest and fastest way, and you will end up with a good result.

Martin

[Dillen]

As already suggested, check the thermal fuse in the transformer as the first thing.
Next, check for cracked solder joints at connectors and at the large capacitors at the back.

Martin

[Dillen]

Plastic lacquer?
I would imagine that could cause static problems.

Martin

[Dillen]

Is it completely dead?

Martin

[Dillen]

My first thought was also, if you had the trimmers mixed up when you fitted them.

Martin

[Dillen]

You can’t do ohm readings on a powered circuit.

Martin

[Dillen]

Very nice finds, indeed.
Here is a Beogram 5000 in palisander (red label), just to give you an idea what it looks like. 🙂

Martin

[Dillen]

So it actually works for a brief moment?

Martin

[Dillen]

So it is.

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s an MPX filter. It grounds remains of the stereo pilot.
You can fit any good similar filter – or ask at Beoparts for a good used original part.

Martin

[Dillen]

I’m still here, but far from as active as previously.
Others have left altogether and found other places.

This thread is perhaps not the best place to discuss it, but I have my reasons for now visiting merely a couple of times weekly rather than a couple of times hourly.
I can only imagine, that other members, be that “surviving” or previous, have their reasons as well. Perhaps some or all of the reasons are the same.

And I don’t think it has anything to do with the “misunderstandings” mentioned above, really. They merely stirred things up a bit and added energy to the forum life.
But I agree, they seem to have gone as well.

Martin

[Dillen]

Check C9, TR3 and TR4 in that order.

Martin

[Dillen]

Are you comparing a B&O cartridge with 30-40 years old rubber suspension with something factory fresh?

Martin

[Dillen]

Can we have DC voltage readings on TR1 and TR2 B-C-E respectively, with the Beocord out of standby?

Martin

 

[Dillen]

No.
Looks more like something from Philips or perhaps subbrand DUX.
Scandyna could also be a bet. Their 1702-1 was quite a rip-off in many ways. Can’t really tell as the platter is not visible.

Martin

[Dillen]

Thanks, Jacques.

Martin

[Dillen]

That PCB needs a full restoration.
It still has the original capacitors, which will be bad by now, and the original, now badly oxidated, trimmers.
With all that still in circuit in can be difficult to point to a specific culprit component.

Had the PCB been completely restored, and still failing, the reason could be a leaking diode or transistor.

Martin

[Dillen]

Available now:

https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product-category/dust-covers/

Martin

[Dillen]

For potential takers it would be nice to know where in the world it is located.

Martin

[Author]

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