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Which version of Beomaster 1400?
Martin
Tighten the two springs. Take them out, pull them a bit longer and put them back.
The damping action is very minimal, few lids will close slowly by themselves, even if recently serviced and freshly greased.
Martin
Can you rotate the motor by hand?
If not – take it apart, clean the spindle and replace the bearings.Martin
The tape can become stuck by partly engaged tapeheads etc., if the mechanism stops mid-cycle.
This typically happens when belts are getting worn, and wheels are slipping.Drawer out, from below, through the tiny holes, see if you can rotate the
left flywheel/capstan by pushing it with a small screwdriver or similar tool.
It should be rotated clockwise (seen from above). One rotation is usually enough to release the mech.
It may be necessary to hold the flywheel using something else – a cottom bud or so – while
shifting to the next push of the screwdriver, because the belt will have an “elastic” effect on the flywheel.Martin
It’s blocked in the mechanism.
If in Denmark your deck is welcome here.Martin
The original bracket for the flying idler was black.
The last original replacements were white – as the one pictured, and they are known to break.Martin
Badly adjusted << and >> buttons?
There are voltage readings stated in the service manual.Martin
It’s solid enough, unless you misuse it or pack it badly for transport. But I suppose that goes for all tonearms.
Does it sound any different? – Well, not that I can tell, but perhaps it can be measured.
It’s much lighter and has a different resonance frequency.Martin
I think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures! :o)
So is the light at the speed dial. Looks all LED’ish.
Can’t your panels align properly?
Martin
Yes, the tape mechanism is the same, but keep in mind that the tape controller
and the tape drive has been calibrated together.
If you replace only the tape mech, you must realign everything on the tape controller to match the new tapeheads etc.
Best is to keep the things paired and replace both the drive and the controller.
– Or repair your drive. What has broken?Martin
Are you thinking about the wrong types of transistors fitted as 5TR4, 5TR5 and 5TR6 in the safety circuit?
They can cause the primary fuse to blow for no apparent reason and are found in
some Beomaster 2200 with serial number earlier than 1470001.
Servicemanuals give out wrong part numbers as well.5TR4 should be a 8320408 (BC 256 or similar)
5TR5 and 5TR6 should be 8320409 (BC 174 or similar).Martin
The outer shield of the round DIN plug carries the chassis ground.
If it still hums (that depends on your amplifier), the center pin in the DIN (signal ground) could be shorted to the chassis screw as well.Martin
Check the diode.
Martin
Find an original manual.
Martin
TR31 and TR32 are only one or two cms apart, in grids G1 (TR31) and F1 (TR32).
Most (but not all) original Beomaster 1900 / Beomaster 2400 servicemanuals have excellent PCB layouts.Martin
Replace capacitors on the decoder/audio PCB.
Martin
Chatol of course.
Martin
In the Master 41 service manual, where the versions B, K , S and RG are covered,
the B is mentioned as the model housed in bakelite.
Of course there must be another explanation for the 510B etc.S is mentioned as a “konsolskab” (Skab = cupboard or closet), so a console model.
“Klangbund” is not really a part of the model name.
The Klangbund (“Soundboard”) is a type of passive radiator for low frequencies, working on what B&O described as an “elastic pillow” of air between the speaker cone and the radiator.
In fact it is the back plate of the receiver, and it’s a (relatively) airtight cover, that will “play along” with the bass (read: deepest notes) using a wall behind the receiver as reflector.Try listening to it if you get a chance, it actually works.
Martin
B: I think this was only used for bakelite models that were also available in a wooden cabinet. At present I can only think of Master 41K/41B
U: Universal (suitable for both DC and AC mains)
CH: Chartol
K: I think is for Kabinet (cabinet housed) – usually with built-in speaker. I believe this is a leftover from when many radios were also available as chassis’ only
S: Used mainly for console models. S could be for Stående (Standing) or solitair
RG: Radiogramophone (radio/gramophone combination)
RGS: Standing Radiogramophone
BRG: Bord-Radiogramophone (tabletop-radiogram)
P: I think is for Papir-isolation (paper-insulated leads – due to WW2 material shortages)
Martin
Check the muting switch.
Martin
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