Forum Replies Created
- AuthorPosts
-
Did you check the 7Vref?
It’s not important if Dolby is in or out. The signal runs through parts of the Dolby ICs regardless.Martin
Sounds like a mechanical problem, – misaligned tapeheads or something bent in the tape path.
Is the tape running off the head?Martin
And there are in fact two different counterweights – used in different models, but very similarly looking and not interchangeable.
Martin
A capacitor problem, perhaps.
Check the 7Vref to the Dolby ICs.
Does the VUs still deflect or will they fall to zero as sound disappears?Martin
Did you adjust anything?
If you didn’t – DON’T!
If you did – that’s why.Martin
35V on a 5V rail is bad news.
This is one of those cases that will typically never be completely repaired, seeing as all circuits
running on 5V will be damaged.
Even after repairing and replacing everything that appears to be affected, some
components will still have scars that will show up as faults later.My suggestion – find another Beomaster.
Martin
Beogram CDX2 has more in common with Beogram CD3300 than CDX.
For some of the Beogram CDX2 circuits, you can use the CD3300 service manual.Martin
Is something rubbing og grinding? Does the belt touch the motor bracket?
Did you check the motor suspension rubber bushings?Read more here:
Martin
Yes.
Martin
Lubricating the belt?
Sounds more like an adjustment issue with the lid switch.Martin
Foam, where foam was used originally.
Repalcing with rubber changes the T/S parameters drastically.
If you only had the T/S to compare, you would never suspect it to be the same driver.Martin
Which type of Beogram 1800?
The newer (flat belt);
Take off cartridge and store in a safe place.
Lift off platter.
Push tonearm so that its outer end is over the area where the platter was.
Losen two screws, one each side from below holding the deck alu surface (Beogram out
over the edge of a table one side at a time – don’t turn it upside down),
lift the deck surface plate gently and pull it towards you.
When you can reach below you can take up the small switch for the play button and unplug
a connector for the deck surface control buttons and take the deck surface off.
Now you can replace the belt and you can also inspect the motor bushings (replace them if they are still the original).
Put back in reverse order – watch out that the leads to the buttons aren’t trapped or sandwiched at the right side screw block.The older is a different story as the old belt is easiest removed by simply cutting it and pulling it out.
The new belt is placed around (under) the platter form above and, from below, using
a hook-like tool, fish it out and lift it on to the idler next to the motor.Martin
Are you in need of it?
Martin
Check the filter capacitors and their respective resistors for the opamps in the analogue output stages.
Martin
There could be many reasons, but that would be the first on the list.
Martin
TR17 C-E short?
Martin
Did you fit the correct type of capacitor for C2103?
It must be a blue Philips/BC axial. Nothing else can be guaranteed to work.Martin
Well done!
Martin
Since it does switch on, we can assume that the sensor pad circuit around TR21 is working.
The problem must be somewhere from R126 up to IC6. A broken copper trace, perhaps?
Have you checked R126? Those high-ohm resistors can go way high or even completely open.You could lift one end of R122 and R126 respectively and cross their connections to see if the FM5 pad will then give you FM4 and the problem moved to the FM4 pad.
Martin
So the FM5 lamp never lights up – even while touching the FM5 pad?
Was this problem present also before you started work?
Before you replaced lamps?Martin
- AuthorPosts