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This is typical for a defect accu. Check the cells… 1,25-1,45V each, depending type. And all identical. Probably one cell will be lower with a problem.
Eneloop NiMh cells are pretty good for this job. 5 Years lifetime and longer. Some will run for 10 years.
NiCd are a good reason for scrapping the BL7000 in 2 years. They will loose their acid.
If you like pictures like this, use NiCd or standard NiMh…
Touch the metal plate. It must not become warm, even after days or weeks. Otherwise there is a recap necessary… not BL7000, the charger !!! Overload… and a 240V update.
If you use Penta for Left&Right channel and a TV for the Center, then this setup was pretty good with a MX8000 and the DolbyDigital5.1 System.
In the background are 2 BL8000…
The Pentas are listed in the MX8000 system software, also the BL8000 and the distance to the listener.
There is also an option for a subwoofer.
The Center speaker of the MX8000 (2x 2way system) is good enough for small/middle size rooms. Surprisingly the option “subwoofer” is not a good selection, it is way to much. Just the opposite is the better solution: switch subwoofer to on, but dont use the subwoofer.
The sound is better.
The same will happen if you use the Penta as a center. Way to big.
Or do we talk about a room with 120qm oder bigger?
Have you already tried a Penta in real life as a center?
A worm drive will always yam the loading mechanism. It is impossible to turn it from outside.
Or it will break by forcing the cassette into the VX. What happened…
This is the trigger to load a cassette… moving the cassette 15mm inside the loading mechanism will trigger the switch on the drive board…
There is the 12V power regulator. It becomes really hot, even if the VX is ok and in standby. 60 degrees are quite normal, consuming 20W in standby… that’s a lot…
That’s why this VX had only a lifetime of some hundred hours. I had some VX5000 not surviving the first year in 1988…
The VX can be modified to save power. But this is a complete and very radical modification. A modified VX5000 consumes less than 10W, the VX7000 can be less 5W…
But… you can remove the analog tuner as a first step. There is no analog radio station on this planet any more… so, it’s a waste of space and electricity… and inside the tuner are also defect caps … 😉
Do you see the missing tuner? It is not necessary at all… just remove it. This works for the VX5000/5500/7000… less is more 🙂
Remove the tuner… or repair it. And when it is repaired, why put it in again? It’s a useless part…
The metall box is the head amp.
Important for noisy pictures and missing sound. It decodes Picture and Sound from the tape… just tape playback and record.
If sound is bad even from AV decoder input, it’s something else defect, not the head amp. (VTAPE – Shift 7 for input….). Worth testing…
But… the front panel has 2 linear potis for recording. And 2x mini 1uF or 10uF caps exactly for recording left/right next to the potis…
As i said, the VX5000 has a lot of caps inside…
Have you made the digital unit already? Can you activate this unit? MX5000 or MX5500?
There are a lot of them in a very special size of RM 2,5mm … very special and really very hard to get in this size. RM2,5 is usually no problem, it’s the mechanical size of them, some are bipolar… that’s why they are red now 😉
All video signal runs through this unit, even if no digital effect is used. Just pass through…
The small board above is the text overlay for the menu. Already done? RGB working? The size is there more than critical, every millimeter counts… i use meanwhile SMD R7y bipolar caps for the RGB unit…
