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A telephone can make this noise when it checks the net connections.
“Bsssss bada bada bada….”
Even a brandnew Overture will show this sound, it was never designed to withstand this emv noise.
Also a computer or router can cause these problem, also some bad LED lights from fareast…
Hmmm… my experience is complete different.
Offering new spare parts in Ebay is more or less a disaster. No interest at all. Now offered for 4 years.
Complete new VX loading gear inclusive cassette loading mechanism… 19,-€ to expensive. 1 sold after 18 month.
VX capstan motor, drive spare parts, new power supplies, revised boards, cabinetts, upgraded power supplies … nothing.
New Beocord motors 30€… nothing.
Stopped. Too expensive…
Instead: people buy a 80€ scrap Overture and want it repaired for even less. Go somewhere else…
But: if a B&O owner loves his equipment and brings it to my workshop in real life… no problem at all. Some of them are driving 600km for this repair and we became close friends for many years, it makes a lot of joy to meet again and to talk about B&O, playing music when the equipment and we were young. And to talk about the next old toy to buy and play with… 🙂
This is the upgrade board, what makes the difference from 5500 to 6500…
Then it is possible, to run 64K Eproms…
Beocord and Beogram do not need any modification, they already work 2-way… they are just telling the master title number or track.
The master can send these data to the MCP and show them. The BM5500 is just compatible with the MCP, not BL7000 or BL5000.
The BM5500 has just a 16K Eprom, the later BM6500/7000 a 64K Eprom. So they are not compatible without modification.
There is/was a BM5500 BL7000 64K file available for an upgrade if modified with a BM6500 cpu.
If you don’t need timer programing: the BL1000 is much better than the Beo4 for the BM5500, easier and faster.
You have already replaced the caps of the power supply?
And on the controller?
The MMCx cartridges sound depends very much on the weight or load. 0,8gramm to 1,5gramm, depending on its construction. You can play with the load…
… or get a good libra.
The RIAA is also important. Some use filter caps on the input side against noise. This is not good. You have a schematic?
For music you dont need more than 2 good speakers. Any speaker more makes it worse.
Music and something like Dolby 5.1 is not working. It sounds great some hours and then you notice: there is something wrong. Even if it was recorded in Dolby, you will hear the difference, it just takes some time … and then you will sell it or scrap it.
For TV it doesn’t care, there is no music, just noise… bumbumrattatatabigbadabooom
This may not matter if the 8000s have no significant output at those frequencies anyway, to phase-cancel.
Your ears will notice the difference that there is something wrong. Be sure, you can hear it. Maybe not today, but in some weeks…
And if you know that there is something wrong, you can hear it. Everytime, everywhere … 😉
Why not a quite normal Beolab 2 ?
The delay will only be compensated when you sit straight inline… TV-BL8000-Bl19.
If you sit in different locations not inline you will hear the delay.
Are you sure, that the powerlink socket is a output for other speakers and not input?
It is no good idea to mix analog speakers with DSP driven digital speakers, there is always this disturbing delay. Playing with the runtime of the signal is only suitable for one (small) position in the room where it sounds right. All other positions notice the difference in runtime … distance and DSP runtime.
Why not using a quite normal analog bass?
New belts are sometimes not ok, some have to much tension and are too small. Sometimes the tension is so high that the drives moves to the left side.
Too much tension also stresses the motor and needs to much power, the motor can not regulate it any more and makes “wowow”…
The right tension is very low, just test the belt that it does not work like chewing gum… getting bigger and bigger.
A good belt is stiff and keeps it’s size and dimension, not like a rubber band or chewing gum…
It is not a good idea to plug in power, having a red led and then connecting Powerlink. Can make a big PLOPP and then nothing in the future…
Has it ever worked before, did you see or hear it or bought defect?
There is not one fixed position… there are 2 !
It’s an “either or” position. The spring shall fix it in side 1 or side 2.
It’s an over the peak snap construction.
Just snap it in the gap next to the teeth…
Ebay?
L272M N8 around 50 offers, especially in GB. ~ 5-8$
BD437 is ok, 45V instead 35V… will work.
The gear does only the movement, the head has it’s own justage … see the red stuff? This is for the head position.
The gear should only be in something symmetrical end position when switching side 1 – 2
I think there is one tooth wrong… just 1 tooth in endposition looks a little bit weak overlap… how does ist look in the other position? 3 Teeth?
OK, safety resistor was dead…
Then the LM272 control of the motor can also have a problem.
There is a safety resistor R1 4,7 Ohms in the power supply for TR1… i have seen this defect already several times…
If there is a mechanical overload of the drive it will blow. Especially if the motor is bad… check the motor on a regulated supply. There are caps INSIDE the motor… at least in the BC5500 drive, 7000 i dont remember right now…There is no 22V AC… it’s just 22V DC unregulated. And if in standby without load there can be more than 28V? Maybe, should be ok.
It’s just a matter of cleaning the keyboard… above and behind. It’s a matrix of lines and colums… so a line is not working.
Probably some liquid came behind on the contact board… or a corroded plug of the front/display, may be cpu/lithium battery.
Remove the glas and covers, dismount the front and clamper, disconnect the wires, remove the keyboard and clean it with alcohol. Otherwise replace the keyboard… usually including front, easier…
Since it should be the same keyboard foil with 8×5 keys and quite the same layout: 2300 and 2500 should use the same foil. Even BS9000 and Overture should use the same.
That means, that a scrab BS2500 could donate the foil for your BS2300 if the service part is no longer available… 😉
@Guy: Thanks for the PDF, it confirms that there should be the same keyboard foil in all of these Beosystems…
Do you have access to a datalink connection?
I had a 8032 cpu with a defect INTerupt pin… meaning that IR is working bad. I connected the master to a MX TV-set… and all was working fine. Exchange of the cpu and the master was ok.
But: use a good socket. It can happen again. The reason is a missing z-diode on the INT pin, causing a small overload during communication. I added a 5,6V z-diode…
And: check the keramic caps near the connectors. There were problems with them, mechanical stress is not good for them.
Also the connector on the front-IR board is very often corroded, causing erratic flickering of the display data.
Martin 2
The cpu is a 80C32 chip. Jep, there are still a lot of them available… but most are not compatible with the old one.
It must be a Philips 80C32 BPN (!!!)
Not compatible are 80C32x2 … they are working faster, there are timing problems.
Have you checked 5V on the cpu board? Best point is the Eprom 27512… Pin14 GND and Pin28 5V.
Was there a Service RESET done… if battery changed? (!!!) Otherwise it will not respond!
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