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Here are some photos of the 4000c style plinths I have been making for people. Each plinth is made from one length of timber so that the grain matches and flows around the whole plinth. From what I have seen of the plinths on the 4000c from B&O, I would say that my quality is as good, if not better than theirs. There is a lot of attention to detail on these. All joints are tight, edges crisp etc.
Here are some photos of the 4000c style plinths. The joint itself is slightly different, as well as the addition of splines. The joints are so tiny.
I have received a great reception to offering the new plinths for sale. Over the past few weeks I have been busy making and shipping them off to people in the US, Denmark, UK, France and Germany. As such my restoration has been taken a back seat for a little bit. Here are a few photos.
I had the chassis and back parts sand blasted to remove all the old paint. The surface finish was quite rough on the inside so I had it wet blasted to bring back some shine. I then primed and painted it black. I used a spray can which was quite difficult to get a good finish but I got there in the end. On my next restoration I will use a proper spray gun as it will be way easier and get a better result.
This is a detail diagram of the classic joint.
And this is the 4000c joinery. Note, this joint has an extra rebate as well as splines.
After a few people have shown interest in the timber plinths, I’ve decided to make them available to others to buy.
I spent some time researching and working out a way to send such a fragile piece, and I think I have found a good solution. I will custom make the boxes which should be able to withstand international shipping. The aim was to make a box that doesn’t compress or twist and which weighs less than 1kg in total to make shipping more affordable.
The plinths will be made to order, in solid timber, and come with 3M industrial strength double sided adhesive tape, instructions on how to fix the plinth to the metal fixtures, and a spare sachet of hardwax oil finish for future maintenance.
I currently have access to oak, walnut, ash, maple and cherry, but depending on demand, I could possibly source mahogany, teak and potentially rosewood (Brazilian rosewood seems almost impossible to get, but Indian rosewood might be an acceptable alternative).
I will offer two different joints; the classic joinery as per the original plinths, or the Beogram 4000c joinery which is slightly different and has splines.
Currently I will use Osmo hardwax oil to finish the timber, but am open to UV stable lacquer, soaped finish, and other finishes if requested.
Next step was to disassemble everything from the chassis and the back piece of the dust hood. The current condition is horrible. The previous owner had made an attempt at starting a restoration and it seem he had tried to sand off the paint.
It was very interesting disassembling the turntable. I enjoy seeing how things are put together and work. I made sure to label everything and take a million photos of how it goes back together. I removed the old sticker labels so that I can adhere them again after it has been refinished.
My plan is to have these pieces sand blasted to remove the old paint before refinishing it myself. I have sent off a few emails to get some quotes on the sand blasting. Has anyone got any experience with restoring the chassis?
First step was to remove the plinth to make a new one. The original was chipboard with rosewood veneer. I assume it has been exposed to water at some point as the chipboard was swollen, and the metal was rusted in parts.
I decided to remake the plinth in oak to match the furniture at home.
I milled a few oversize pieces of oak and let them sit for a few days to relieve any tension in the timber before milling them to their final size. I milled up a few extra pieces in case I made any mistakes and so I can test a few different finishes. Each strip of timber will make one plinth so that the grain will be continuous.
I have seen a few restored plinths made with a mitre and splines but I think I prefer the original joinery so decided to go with that instead. I programmed the CNC to do all the joinery. I had to make a vacuum hold-down jig as the parts are so small and difficult to secure when milling.
The joinery ended up really well. The small details look great and are a nod to the original. This is what it looked like before gluing.
Here is the end result. I have oiled one (the darker looking one). I will spray the other one with lacquer. Afterwards I will decide which one I like the best.
The metal fixtures had some chipped paint and surface rust so I removed the rust, sanded them down and refinished them with flat black paint. They turned out great!
