[chartz]

As regards cartridges I’ll advise Soundsmith

in the USA. They have brand new models also used by B&O nowadays.

[chartz]

Hi,

Nobody attacks you I’m sure Thomas.

We’re here to help with no agenda whatsoever. Advice is free.

Just that these decks are a little complicated and that you should have good notions in electronics to be able to return them to full functionality.

Everybody here went to a sometimes lengthy learning process thanks to knowledgeable and friendly people like Martin or John aka Sonavor. We also share our findings whenever something new turns up.

So, look, listen and learn. Study diagrams and schematics, ask us questions, and fix your Beogram 8000. Take your time and enjoy the ride.

Jacques

 

[chartz]

So I ‘guessed’ right Steve.

A little disappointed they didn’t do a real Beogram 4000 this time though. I’ll forever stick to mine.

[chartz]

Something like this? ?

[chartz]

Look, I have quite a few CD players, some 40 years old, and they almost all still work. I’ve yet to find a Philips-based player that isn’t fixable, by the way. All my B&O CD players have their original laser assemblies.

However, the CDM12 don’t seem as reliable, although mine all work perfectly.

 

[chartz]

Oh yes please, we love pictures here.

As we say here, “pictures or it didn’t happen”. ☺️

[chartz]

Hi,

Nice turntable, a keeper.
I’m afraid the tonearm will have to be dismantled, cleaned bit by bit, lubricated and re-assembled. The old grease/oils become sticky and this is basic maintenance for 50 year-old decks. Do that, then we’ll advise further. Also, does the tonearm light with the red B&O logo work?

[chartz]

Hi,

It is very unlikely the CDM itself is faulty. I’ve yet to find a bad CDM4. And I’ve come across quite a few.

Have you checked the voltages as per service manual?

Since you now have the correct caps everywhere, the fault must be around the power supply.

[chartz]

Blah blah. The man is listening to himself. Almost every YouTube video is like that. A written review is much better in my opinion.

[chartz]

Nice but the important bits you really need to show are the wooden trims.

[chartz]

Well done. Excellent work on these beauties. ??

Superb speakers I’ve been trying to get for ages. I had to do with the lesser MC120-2. Almost there, but not quite !

[chartz]

Hi,

The Beomaster 4400 remains my favourite one sonically speaking. Entirely worth the effort, and very reliable when it has been properly restored with Beoparts components ☺️

[chartz]

Hi,

You possibly need to lubricate the capstan motor.

[chartz]

Have you recapped the servo PCB?

[chartz]

Hi,

And then news when the (easy) repair is done!

Best wishes,

Jacques

[chartz]

Hi Rune,

I’d leave it if there isn’t any oxydation inside. Also check whether some of it was burnt by overloaded resistors in the crossover, which could explain the bad smell as well.

You can otherwise use the same wool made of recycled clothes, available from shops that sell fabric.

[chartz]

Hi,

Also check the transistors in the output stages, especially drivers and pre drivers. They can be intermittent.

[chartz]

No you can’t. The thump is normal.

Mine has done that every day for almost ten years. Many amps have a speaker switching relay to avoid it. To reduce it, you may try new power supply capacitors, but it will still be there.

If the problem magically disappeared it may come back, so beware.

Jacques

[chartz]

That Philips tweeter was very good. It was used in many great speakers, including Philips’s own legendary MFB active speakers. I agree that replacing the Xover caps should be tried, hoping that the units were not damaged.

No ferrofluid was used by Philips, by the way.

Jacques

[chartz]

Hi,

What you describe seems normal to me, as said above, nothing special. All critical parts are readily available.
Every item will need standard maintenance, all worth it if they still look nice!

Good luck finding someone who can do it though. B&O won’t be able to help here I’m afraid.

[Author]

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