[chartz]

With the tip of a cutter blade.

[chartz]

It is glued. You need persuasion (and some patience) to remove the thing.

To remove the old one you need to cut it longitudinally, if that makes sense.

[chartz]

Hi,

Here’s an MMC4000 and an SP12 to illustrate what I wrote above. It’s fairly easy to fit a new cantilever provided the diameter is compatible. ☺️

Jacques

[chartz]

Hi,

Good idea.

Done that, been there! The telescopic repair, I mean.

The MMC is worth a better stylus of course.

I have just repaired a DL103 with broken cantilever (keeping the original broken cantilever). I used a tiny medical needle, and believe it or not, the cartridge sings perfectly.

The SP series are easy to do because they have a spigot on which you can attach the alu tube, with moderate force. No need for glue.

I think the MMC4000 has the spigot too.

[chartz]

The tangentials are my favourite decks.

The Beogram 4000 would be my first choice.

Then the 8000, then the classic 1800 (radial).

The later 5005 series I find a bit flimsy, but they are reliable and much easier to service.

 

[chartz]

Well done, and thanks for the update, always appreciated ☺️

[chartz]

There is a special thrust pad with a hole and the spindle sits slightly over it. Late Beogram 4000´s had the same kind of bearing, only larger (12 mm if memory serves).

[chartz]

There is always one.

[chartz]

Hi James, and welcome ?

This is absolutely normal for that bearing. It is a self-centering bearing with only one sintered ring at the top. It has a special thrust pad at the bottom.

[chartz]

Hi, and welcome to Beoworld ☺️

That’s indeed the usual failure on these machines. You have to renew every single idler tyre and quite possibly the broken clutch arm.

You will find the correct parts (buy the main belts too, beware of eBay random ones) at Beoparts.

Happy repairs! ?

[chartz]

I would never sell anything in my vintage collection.

[chartz]

Bonjour !

Qu’est-ce qui te fait dire ça ? ?

[chartz]

Bonjour !

Je publie sur le forum anglais, mais j’espère en effet que ça va repartir ici aussi.
La nouvelle interface n’est pas encore des plus réussies. C’est un début.

Le plus gros problème c’est qu’il va falloir tout refaire, plutôt que de continuer à alimenter d’anciens fils.

Bonne journée,

Jacques

[chartz]

Great find ?

Don’t forget to replace the electrolytic caps.

I published a story many moons ago, but will the pictures still be here?
If not I probably still have them on my Mac. Please ask.

There is just one grille to remove to access the cap.

Good luck!

Jacques

[chartz]

Same here: most of my old posts and threads have no pictures left.

I would like to see my old conversations like Martin too. Lots of contacts will be lost unfortunately.

Jacques

[chartz]

It has only two positions: fully up or fully down. It doesn’t hold in between.

Have you ordered Martin’s belts?

[chartz]

Great deck. I have two (that don’t chew any tapes ?)!

I did the same mistake on the first one. I steered clear of removing the second one… Good you’ve solved it.

Funny blue belt, by the way.

[chartz]

Hi Keith,

Thanks for that. Take your time.

[chartz]

Hi,

A long shot, this. Especially because they are 16 Ω units.

Good luck ?

[chartz]

Loss of connectivity?

[Author]

Posts