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I’d never really considered including my BV8 TV in the setup, but now that I see what options are available, I may rethink that, thanks.
As for the hum possibility, I was hoping that since the WIIM Pro gets its power from USB, and is therefore not running on mains voltage, I wouldn’t get the hum. I guess I’ll find out once I get it all connected! The Aux Splitter that Steve sells is only £20 so it’s worth a try.
Ah thanks, I’ll try that. If I can get sound from the TV playing through the BC8500 or vice-versa, then at least I know the Beolink Converter 1611 I bought works, before I invest in the Beolab 3500 that I ultimately bought it for.
I don’t intend for the TV and BC8500 to remain connected – there’s no benefit to that for my setup. The built in speakers on the BV8 TV are plenty good enough for my purposes.
Thanks, yes I had thought of that, but ultimately I do plan to use the A.Tape2 input for another purpose (although I haven’t done so yet), but the splitter I mentioned above should do the trick.
I’ve also realised that while I look for a BL3500, I can test the Beolink 1611 by connecting my Beovision 8 TV to my Beocenter 8500. According to a manual I found online here I can connect the TV to the converter via Masterlink, then converter to Beocenter via Audio Aux Link. I’m not sure what it will actually do when connected, but it should hopefully allow me to at least test that the converter I got quite cheap on eBay actually works before I splash out on a Beolab 3500!
Ah that’s good to know, thanks. I do already use the Aux socket on my BC8500 (for my WIIM Pro streamer), but I see that Sounds Heavenly do a splitter cable, so I guess I can make it work with one of those.
Thanks for your help – again!
I kept looking for a Beolink Converter 1611 until one finally came up on eBay at a reasonable price, so I bought it. I have not bought a Beolab 3500 yet as I wanted to make sure I could get the converter first, but the BL3500 comes up on eBay often so I don’t expect I’ll have any difficulty getting one.
I’ve just realised though in your earlier post however @Madskp, it says that I would connect the 1611 to my BC8500 using the Aux output, but I see that the 1611 has both Aux and Powerlink sockets. Can I connect it via Powerlink rather that Aux?
Also, do you happen to know if the display on the BL3500’s display can display the functions of my BC8500, when connected this way?
Thanks for your help everyone. I know my choices now:
- I get a (second hand) Beosound Core.
- I get the Beotooth, if still available.
- I get this OneRemote device, but only if I can be sure it does what I want it to do – I have emailed the company with some questions and await their reply.
I haven’t quite made my decision yet but have everything I need – thank you.
Not in my case. MM
I assume yours is an Essence Mk 2?
You should be able to buy it directly from Pilatomic provided he still has it in stock. Try to send him a PM by clicking his username if you are interested in it. I can only say good things about that product
Yes I have found his site and how to buy, and it’s quite reasonably priced. I will consider it – the idea of being able to control Bluetooth audio with my Beo4 remote is appealing.
The essence mk2 lacks chrome cast support in comparison to the Core if I’m not mistaken, is that right?
That was my understanding but I’m not sure. Chromecast is not a definite requirement of mine, but it certainly is a benefit.
Has anyone ever seen these by the way? Link: Digital radio solutions for B&O
These various devices offer compatibility with older and newer B&O kit, and can add DAB+ with Bluetooth controllable with your B&O remote, and other models that also offer internet radio. The basic one with the correct connections to my Beocenter 8500 works out at about out £250.
They also have some other handy looking B&O compatible stuff, such as a phono stage that allows Beolink commands to work through it. Wish they had a UK dealer though.
Thank you. I had seen an Essence Mk1 (including the rotary remote) quite cheap, but it looks like a Mk2 would be better, and as you say the remote wouldn’t be much use (other than looking very cool on the wall).
That’s pretty much made my decision then – I’ll get a Core. Thanks!
My understanding was that I would not require any converters; I don’t need to control the Core or Essence from my existing equipment, all I want to do is be able to connect it to my Beocenter. I’l contol the Core or Essence via the B&O app on my phone. My understanding them is that all I need is the cable from Sounds Heavenly, which is explained in this Youtube – https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjP-snQh72GAxXHSEEAHdV8ClUQwqsBegQIDRAG&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DFn3oaPgcWWk&usg=AOvVaw0Xby6fPjzAVNFnsdV0SphS&opi=89978449
What I am not sure of however is exactly what the devices can do! From the B&O app, I assume I will be able to play B&O radio to any of those devices, but would I also be able to play Spotify, from my Android phone? I just can’t quite understand if that is definitely possible?
As for the Beotooth gadget, yes I had seen that project before and it looks really interesting, but can I figure out how to but it!? No, I cannot.
Thanks both of you – I was struggling to make sense of it all but I think it makes sense now.
I think I’ll buy the MCL2P, the power cable you found on Amazon Guy, and I’d need one short Powerlink cable but I can get one of those easily enough.
I do have an MCL2A (which doesn’t require a power adapter) but I’d really like to be able to control the volume of the link room speakers independently, and this will solve it.
Ah, I have found a MCL2P manual online and it seems I was wrong. I t seems it should be like this:
- Beocenter 8500 connects to MCL2AV via MCL cable
- MCL2AV connects to MCL2P via Powerlink, and also the 15v connector you mention
- My CX50 speakers are therefore connected to the MCL2P, rather than the MCL2AV
- If I later decide to expand my setup with some more active speakers, I would no longer need to the MCL2P, but would need a power supply for the MCL2AV
Ah, that was not clear from the seller’s photo thanks – it does not show the figure 8 power input, it only shows a socket marked 15V so I assumed that was a power input rather than an output!
So I figure this is the way it works:
- Beocenter 8500 connects to MCL2P via Powerlink
- MCL2P connects to MCL2AV via Powerlink, and also the 15v connector you mention
- My CX50 speakers are therefore connected to the MCL2AV, rather than directly to the MCL2P, allowing the MCL2P to control those speakers
- If I later decide to expand my setup with some more active speakers, I could connect those via the Powerlink on the MCL2P
Have I got that right, before I buy the MCL2P!?
I have found an MCL2P for sale, but I don’t know if it include it’s own power adapter yet (I’ve asked the seller) so I might encounter the same problem.
What I can’t understand however is how the MCL2P supplies power to the MCL2AV, if I were to use both together?
Ah, B&O made a lot of these various black boxes but I’ve never seen anything referred to as MCL2P before today. Good to know as I do plan to use the MCL2AV it with passive rather than active speakers (I have active main speakers, but the link room speakers will be passive CX50s). The ML2AV does have normal speaker outputs for passive speakers, but I assume that would just use the amplification from the Beocenter/Beomaster (in my case, a Beocenter 8500), like the MCL2 does. Using MCL2P would, I assume, allow me to control the volume of the second set of speakers independently.
Can’t find anything called MCL2P on eBay, but I’ll keep looking – does it have the usual 16** model number that would help me find one?
Ahm that makes sense now, thanks. As I said, I’m no electrician! Forgive me though – what is MCL2P?
I already asked Quality Dream Audio – they don’t have one.
Thanks for this though – the one you found is 300mA rather than 250mA, and that’s the trouble I’ve been having – I can find them close, but not quite right.
I’m not sure how much difference an extra 50mA would make, but I don’t want to risk frying it!
Problem solved – I had opened it up to see if anything was loose. I couldn’t find anything wrong but when I put it back together, it worked! I’ll assume something was a bit loose and the process of opening up, fidgeting around and then closing it back up has fixed it, somehow!
Thanks for this – really useful. I don’t think he’ll mind having only one link unit – he will at least have the choice of having speakers on only in the main room, or in both rooms.
I’ll keep looking on eBay for the items I need then.
My goodness these converters are confusing. Thanks – I’ll keep looking for a 1611 then.
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