[CharlieWednesday]

Since I’ve got both a 1614 and a 1611, I might as well use the 1611. After all, if the BV8 TV ever goes up in smoke I won’t be replacing it with another B&O TV (given that modern B&O TVs start at £6,500!). Both the 1611 and 1614 were bought cheap so I might as well keep both, just in case.

Yes I think I will look for a cheap ML Distribution Box, especially given that I have two MCL cables already (albeit both quite short) with plugs both ends, so all I’d need is the box, plus one more (long) MCL cable.

I realise I’m going to all this trouble just so I can get the clock to show on my BL3500, which might not seem worthwhile, but I’ll do it for the same reason I fixed the tape deck on my Beocenter – it’s there, so I want it to work!

[CharlieWednesday]

Oh that is useful, thanks @Guy.

If I do want to bring my TV into the Masterlink network, I think I can then, like this:

• Get a Masterlink junction box, like this one
• Get 3 Masterlink cables with a Masterlink plug on one end, bare wires on the other (there’s a couple of places I could get these from, made to order)
• Wire those three cables into the Masterlink junction box
• I’ll then have 3 Masterlink connections – one for the 1611, one for the BV8 TV, one for the BL3500 (I could also add a 4th Masterlink cable and add one of the BL2000s to the network)
• Connect the 1611 to my BC8500 with the aux link cable that I already have

Or, a variation that is a bit more expensive but may be more flexible:

• Get a Masterlink distribution box, like this one
• Use the 2 Masterlink cables I already have with plugs at both ends, and buy another long one, with plugs at both ends
• Connect them all the same was as above, but to the distribution box instead

I’m also wondering (and judging from your previous posts you might know this @Madskp!), if I bring my BV8 TV into the Masterlink network, then the TV becomes the ‘controller’, so to speak, and powers the network, so I could use either the 1611 or the 1614, but not both?

[CharlieWednesday]

You’re a genius – I didn’t realise all those LIST items beginning with an L meant ‘Link’. I tried a few until I found one that worked – L.N.MUSIC is interpreted as Tape2 on my system. Thanks!

[CharlieWednesday]

No you didn’t mis-read – I thought I would be able to use the 1611 and the 1614, but it doesn’t really matter – that’s not why I bought the 1614 – I bought it because it came with a Masterlink cable that was worth more than they were asking for the 1614!

Yes I’ve turned the clock off as you suggested. The clock is no big deal really, so I don’t think I’ll bother with the Masterlink junction box, unless one comes up cheap.

One weird thing I’ve found though. I have the BL3500 in the same room as my system, so I have set it to option 4.

I can use by Beo4 to control it, but there is one problem with using the Tape 2 input, which I use a lot, because my streamer is connected to Tape2.

Because the Beo4 does not have a dedicated A>TAPE2 or LINK button and both have to be selected via the LIST button, I don’t seem to be able to select Tape2 directly for the BL3500. I’ve tried LIST>LINK then LIST>A.TAPE2, but using the LIST twice in a row doesn’t seem to work – it just turns my Beocenter onto Tape 2, playing on the main speakers instead of the Beolab 3500.

The only way around it I have found is to use LIST>LINK then select any other input which has a dedicated button (such as CD), then switch to A.TAPE2, then mute the Beocenter, in order to get sound only from the BL3500. This means I can’t adjust the volume on the BL3500 while on Tape2 without switching to another input like CD, adjusting the volume, then switching the source back to Tape 2 and then muting the Beocenter again. quite long winded! If anyone shas come across a way around this then do let me know.

I do have a Beolink 1000 too, and that does work – LINK>SHIFT>A TAPE selects the Tape2 input on the Beolab 3500, and then also allows me to control the volume on it. Shame the Beo4 can’t seem to do the same.

• This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by CharlieWednesday.

[CharlieWednesday]

Picked up the Beolabs today – turned out a better deal than I thought; it’s two BL3500s as expected but also TWO BL2000s – the eBay listing indicated that it was only ONE BL2000. That’s made my mind up then – I’m keeping a BL2000 too, I’ll find somewhere for it…

Both of the BL3500s are Version 1 (serial begins 14…), with software version 2.0. I’ve tested all four, and they sound fine, but I’ll have a look inside and check the drivers. They are in great cosmetic condition – one small mark on the centre grille on one of the BL3500s but apart from that, no marks. Both BL3500s have the rear cowls, and one of them even included the wall mount, which I wasn’t expecting as the seller said none were included (that’ll save me £30).

I’m having some work done in the room before I mount the best of the two on the wall, but I have checked the setup – I have my BL6000s connected directly to my BC8500 as the main speakers, my BV CX50s connected via an MCL2A (soon to be upgraded to an MCL2AV and an MCL2P,), and now the BL3500 connected via the A.Aux and the 1611 converter. I like that I can decide any combination of which speakers are playing.

The only thing I was a little disappointed in was the clock on the BL3500 – I hadn’t realised it will only display the time if connected to a system that has a timer, which my BC8500 doesn’t have. Not a major issue by any means but a bit of a shame it’s clock could not be independently set. I’ve just ordered a Beolink converter 1614 off eBay because it was going cheap for less than£20 and included both the power cable and a Masterlink cable, so I’ll use that to connect my BV8-40 TV to the system, and maybe then, the BL3500 can get the time from the TV? No big deal if it can’t, but it’d be nice if it did.

I paid £90 for the lot, plus a 2 hour round trip to pick them up. Proper bargain, that. In the English countryside too so I even got a nice drive out of it.

[CharlieWednesday]

Got it – thanks Guy. I’ve got it out now – the thing I was missing is that you have to push down on two plastic lugs on the plastic cover, which you can then lift, tilt toward the back of the unit, and remove. Once that’s off, the tape deck comes out quite easily and I can turn it over and see where to get at the belts (or belt, in this case – Type 1 has just one belt it seems).

I’ll order the belts then (from Beoparts!), thanks, and replace the belts on both the BC8500 and BC9000.

 

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks – I didn’t undo the cables yet so I’ll have a look and see if that helps. I haven’t ordered the belts yet as I wanted to know that I could get into the thing first! They sell them on Beoparts though. If I can figure it out I might as well get two, and replace the belts on both the BC8500 and the BC9000 too, as they’ve probably never been replaced. I’ll be ordering the mute relay for the BC9000 from Beoparts too so might as well get everything in one package and save on the shipping.

The Type 2 tape deck in my BC8000 was easier to get out of the unit for servicing (unscrew 4 or 5 screws and it just lifted out), but it had 3 belts and one of them was very difficult to fit. I’m hoping the Type 1 is easier!

[CharlieWednesday]

While I was poking around inside the BC9000 I also decided to try to get the cassette mechanism out and have a look at the belt. It’s the Type 1 cassette deck; I’ve only replaced belts on the Type 2 before now.

The cassette deck does work, but I also have a Beocenter 8500 which is the one I use, and the tape deck in the BC8500 can be a bit temperamental sometimes, so I want to put a new belt in it. My BC8500 also has the Type 1 tape deck, same as the BC9000.

So, I thought I would take a look around the tape deck in the BC9000 (a restoration project) so I would know what to do when it came to replacing the belt in my BC8500, but I cannot figure out how the get the tape deck mechanism out! There are three screws (two on the lower edge, and one above, next to the motor), but something still seems to be holding it in place at the bottom edge, that I can’t see it. Has anyone here ever removed one? What’s the trick to it!? I have checked the service manual but it does not go into the level of detail needed, or not that I can see.

[CharlieWednesday]

Hi

The material is particleboard – just like they used to use to make flat pack furniture in the 80s (and sometimes still do) before things moved more to MDF. The top and bottom edges however are lined with an aluminium strip. They are reversible, the other side is off-white, but on mine, the white side is quite discoloured with age.

Yes, I like your idea about the glass shelf – it would seem more secure. I might look into that. Because of the way the underside of the BG8500 is shaped, the shelf would need to be quite shallow in order to remain invisible, but that is possible.

The stand for the Form1 was verify cheap on eBay. It took a while to arrive (from China) but it does fit the Form1 very well – find it here. The photo on eBay makes it look thicker and more substantial than it actually is, but it does the job well enough.

[CharlieWednesday]

Well, I’d have to say this went well, and was done on a budget. The SM20 unit only cost me £40 but it was a bit rusty, and did not have the full set of attachments. Over the last couple of days I’ve rust-doctored it, took as much of the rust as I could off with wire wool, then finished with fine sandpaper. It came up better than I thought – the left side is worse than the right (the seller had it stood on one side in the corner of the garage for a long time), but where I have it, you can’t really see much of the left side.

Although it wasn’t built for my Beocenter 8500 and Beogram 8500, it suits it pretty well, and the 4 brackets that came with it were enough – 2 for each. The two brackets for the turntable are only 18cm long which does make me nervous – it does sit well and it is dead level, but just in case I’ve put some double-sided foam tape underneath. the advantage of those short brackets though it that they are invisible – the turntable seems to float there.

I bought some little hooks from Amazon (intended to hang over your kitchen cupboard doors, to hang your tea-towels on!), but they happen to fit and have a nice steel finish, so I’ve added 6 of those to hold the ‘now playing’ vinyl, CD, and cassette, which you can see on the photos. It looks a bit busy though so I’m going to take the cassette ones off – I don’t really play cassettes after all.

On the left, under the turntable, I made a makeshift bracket of my own using some metal fittings from a local hardware store bought for a couple of pounds – there’s no weight in the WIIM Pro streamer I have put there, so it works pretty well. The Philips Hue lamp under that sets it all off quite well too!

There’s quite a lot of wiring at the back. I have MCL cables connected to the speaker outputs (in turn connected to a pair of CX50s) powerlink connected to my Beolab 6000s, an FM antenna, and all three DIN inputs are in use, but SM20 hides all of that.

I’ve connected a long audio aux link cable to the aux connection, which snakes around the room, connects to a Beolink Converter 1611, from which there is a masterlink cable leading to nothing at all right now, but I pick my Beolab 3500 up on Monday (bought on eBay), then that goes on the wall.

I’ve also only just found out that I can set my WIIM Pro as the ‘default music speaker’ for my google home display, so now I can just voice command google to play thinks on Spotify, and it plays on my Beocenter through the WIIM Pro.

So now I have all of the music. All of it.

 

• This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by CharlieWednesday.

[CharlieWednesday]

That’s what I thought – I have a few days off work so have the time to try it. The connections actually all look in pretty good order.

I do still intend to order the mute relay and see if I can fix the original amp in the BC9000, but just in case that doesn’t work, I have a backup.

• This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by CharlieWednesday.
• This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by CharlieWednesday.

[CharlieWednesday]

Sorry I’ve realised I didn’t phrase this as a question in my last post but there was a question, if anyone knows – would the amplifier unit I already have from a BC8500 fit into the BC9000 as a straight swap? It looks like it would but I don’t want to risk it and then see smoke coming out of it!

Although the amp is out of a broken BC8500, the amp (and speaker outputs) were definitely fully working, including the mute relay.

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah, that does help to make sense of it. I used to have a Beosystem 3000 too – would have looked nice on that!

Don’t think I’ll have much luck getting any new parts for it then, but I’ll see if I can find anything that will coincidentally work with it. My partner is a retired engineer and might be able to make or adapt something for me. I’ve ordered these hooks on Amazon, I intend to use two of them as a ‘now playing’ record holder.

That’s a nice example on eBay for £250. Mine’s a bit rusty (on the left side only, but you won’t see that side where I intend to put it) but I only paid £40 for it!

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks – I’ll make sure I check the software. I believe they are mark 2 but I am not sure who to tell for sure, until I get a look at them.

I have thought about keeping the BL2000 but I honestly have nowhere for it. I have wondered however if it would be suitable for bathroom use, if safely wired. From the photo I will say it looks in great condition, but I do agree, it’s not the most attractive item.

Yes, definitely got the beovirus now! Realising how cheap you can get hold of some of this stuff, and how easy some of it can be to fix even if it’s broken (and I’m no expert). The story so far:

• Beogram RX2, I’ve had for several years. Still have it, my partner uses it.
• Form 2i, also had for years. No use for them now so think I might put them on eBay.
• Beoplay EQ – bought a couple of years ago on Amazon Prime day. They stopped working but were replaced under warranty with the later EXs. I use these every day.
• Beomaster 2000, Beogram CDX, Beovox RL45.2 bought last year and this is where the bug really started. The speakers needed some work and some new straps. I’ve sold all of this now (and with no small profit!).
• Beocord 2000 bought to match the above, replaced the belts, also now sold.
• Beomaster 2000, Beocord 2000, Beogram 3000 and Beovox RL60, bought as a kit because I wanted the Beogram 3000. Beomaster had a dodgy volume control but fixed that, Beocord needed new belts same as my first one, Beovox RL60s needed the ABRs fixing – I managed to do that using 2mm-thick cosplay foam, sandpaper and glue – worked a treat! All now sold apart from the Beogram 3000 but that’s also up for sale on eBay now.
• Beomaster 3000 because I wanted to add remote control to the Beosystem above. Didn’t keep it long though before I decided on another upgrade.
• MCL30 kit for the Beomaster 3000 which I decided not to keep, so that’s for sale on eBay now.
• Beocenter 8000 with Beovox RL 1000s, a beautiful example. Needed new tape belts and another fix to the tape deck mechanism, and the glass panels needed fixing back in place. This is all for sale on eBay now because of a later upgrade.
• Beocom 6000 – who needs a landline? Me. I do.
• Form 1 headphones – got them really cheap and managed to clean up the speakers and attach foam pads intended for Form 2i. They are on display on a nice stand – beautiful things.
• Beovox CX50 – a friend gave me these as they needed new foams, so I refoamed them. These, I’m keeping – they are a joy.
• Beogram 8500 – bought impulsively and quite expensive, but I don’t regret it.
• Beocenter 8500 – to upgrade from the 8000 because I decided I wanted some Beolabs, I wanted to connect my CX50s via MCL, and because it matched the grey finish of my Beogram 8500. This was my one and only fail – it was too far gone and I had to break it down for parts, but I’m already in profit on that for selling a couple of the parts!
• Beocenter 8500 – spent a bit more and got a working one. Tape deck sticks sometimes so I’ve ordered new belts for it. This one is the keeper, I think.
• Beolab 6000s – wanted active speakers to go with the above. Real bargain these were too – £160.
• MCL2A kit – used to connect my Beovox cX50s (in the same room, but it’s an odd shape), but I want to upgrade this to a MCL2AV with an MCL2P so I can control the volume of the CX50s independently. This came with a pair of Beovox MCX35s which I sold straight off, as I had no need for them.
• Beovision 8-40 – got this for £80, local collection. How could I not buy it? It even included a Beo4.
• Beovox C40s – these were cheap on eBay because they needed refoaming and I already had the foams, but my CX50s sound better so I have just sold the C40s. Didn’t sell for as much as I hoped but a bit of profit made.
• Beolink Converter 1611 – for my Beolab 3500 plan.
• Beocenter 9000 – bought as a restoration project, it was only £50 and half hour drive away for collection so I thought I might as well. Needs the mute relay replacing but other than that I’ve got it working. I have a friend who I think would like this so I think I’ll give it to him for his birthday (the same friend who gave me the CX50s, so only fair!), but if he doesn’t want it I’ll put it on eBay. I also got a shelving system with this – see my other post about that!
• Beolab 3500 x 2 and Beolab 2000s ready to collect at the weekend, I’ll only be keeping one of the 3500s, which I will wall mount.

I’ve had to promise my partner that I’ve finished now. I haven’t finished.

I’m a data and systems analyst with autism so of course I’ve kept a careful report of everything I’ve bought and sold (even the various cables and plugs). If I sell everything I’ve still got for sale at a decent price, everything I’ve kept will essentially have been free. That’s not why I did it all, but it’s a bloody bonus, that is.

• This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by CharlieWednesday.

[CharlieWednesday]

Yes I figured that was it – strangely out of character for B&O to allow for a peripheral that they did not themselves make!

[CharlieWednesday]

Update – the Masterlink cable and the Audio Aux Link cable I ordered both arrived today, so to test it I connected my Beocenter 8500 to my Beovision 8-40 via the 1611 box, and it worked as you explained – if I select TV, then press AV then CD, the CD plays with sound coming from the TV. So, I know it works!

I have already bought a Beolab 3500 on eBay but not collected it yet – seller was selling two BL3500s plus one BL2000 as a kit and as they were collection only, they went quite cheap. I’ll keep the best of the two BL3500s and sell the other two.

The seller isn’t available for me to collect until this weekend though so I’ll have to wait – I’ll let you know how I get on! Thanks to each of you for your help on this. That BL3500 is going to look so very cool on my wall…

• This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by CharlieWednesday.

[CharlieWednesday]

Update – I manage to fix the door cord; tape deck door now working! It also needed a new door belt but luckily I already had a spare. That took a lot of patience and a lot of repetition (get one bit in place, another bit comes loose…), but I got there in the end.

I’m also even more sure than I was yesterday that you were right about the mute relay @Guy. Now that I have put it all back together, I have plugged the speakers back into Speakers 1, turned up the volume, and kept pressing mute on and off. Sometimes I would get some sound from the speakers when mute was off (although it was a poor connection). I know it’s not the amplifier though as it sounds fine when the speakers are plugged into Speakers 2.

I have a full amplifier unit from a Beocenter 8500 which I broke down for parts (too far gone to repair). I’m assuming that although that was from a BC8500 rather than a BC9000, it should work? I will get the mute relay from Beoparts and try to fix the BC9000, but just in case that fix doesn’t work, I could just swap out the whole amp with my spare amp if it’s compatible?

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah yes, I’ve found it in my 9000 now (it’s actually pretty big and obvious, now that I see it). I’m not the best at soldering which is why I asked, but my partner has a steady hand – he can do it!

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks – I did figure out the door strings after a lot of messing around (don’t ask me how!). I’ve managed to get one of the two back in place, the other one is almost there, I just need to get the knotted end into the little slot that holds it there – I’ve had enough with it for tonight, I’ll try again tomorrow.

I’ve just read about that speaker power relay on Beoparts and you’re almost certainly right. I need to order tape belts from them anyway so I might as well order that too. I’m assuming it will need soldering in place? With any luck then I’ll be able to get it into full working order!

• This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by CharlieWednesday.

[CharlieWednesday]

Yes, I’ve seen Masterlink distribution boxes come up for sale every now and again, and not too expensive. If I ever decide to do that, I might buy one. For the moment though, the Beovision 8 and the Beocenter 8500 are in the same room and there is no great need for me to link them together, apart from out of curiosity.

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