[Carolpa]

blinkyp732 wrote:

What is the best way to connect the A6 with a hard line to AppleTV and SONY Bravia OLED? The WIFI connection constantly disconnects. Any work arounds?

if you want the sound of the Sony on the A6, I would say the best solution would be SPDIF/Toslink. Note: to eliminate the delay you have to change the setting of the A6.

question: how were the A6, the AppleTV and the Sony wifi connected together?

[Carolpa]

Olasitu wrote:

Hello all … sharing my experience with the Beolab 28 and a PowerLink connection. A few things to establish first Beolab 28 can’t be daisy chained for Powerlink connection. You will need to connect each speaker directly to your Powerlink device. Most devices have only 1 Powerlink connection so you will need to use the Powerlink splitter adapter to get 2 connections from 1. My installation I am connecting a LG C2 TV to the BL28s. And using the Hall audio Wireless HIFI Manufacturer – “https://hallaudio.com/en/”. It lets you connect the TV via ARC/HDMI and let us connect to BL28s via Powerlink. It will auto switch to HDMI and let us control BL28s directly using your TV remote. Most TV connections using optical or even 3.5 audio jack (!) will create video-audio lag and you will need to switch source manually using the B&O app. However … When you connect via Powerlink and enable Powerlink in the B&O app you are no longer able to control your Sound profile or even use the equalizer. THEY ARE ALL DISABLED. You cant override Powerlink source i.e. once Powerlink is enabled you cant play any sound apps via the B&O app. Powerlink connection more or less dumbs down the app and the BL28s and just makes the BL28s external speakers to your Powerlink Source. Again not a well thought out implementation from B&O. Yes. Most B&O sources have their Bass and Treble controls but the use of Beosonic Sound profile is one of the main selling points of the BL28s and this is disabled using Powerlink. Would be interested in other people’s experiences with using Powerlink connections with Beolab 28s. There has to be a better way. And or connecting non B&O TVs to the Beolab 28s.

Did you read the Beolab 28 user guide?
There you could read/see that the BL28 has one PL connection.
There it is noted that if PL connection is used, the BL28 become plain speakers to the tv.
There is explained all the setting are then controlled by the tv.

Yes, I have Wireless PL connected the speakers to my Beovision Harmony and both are LAN connected (the main speaker to a switch the other to the main speaker).
Yes, I can use all the features of the BL28.

But if the Harmony is switched on the Harmony is in charge! So everything is then controlled by the tv………..and so should it be.

All in all clever solutions by B&o

[Carolpa]

Millemissen wrote:

I wonder what the differences are – and if these differences will be important to me.

some differences

BLI: no support of ML (directly; indirectly with the use of a MLGW of BLGW)

BLI pro: extended Halo support

BLI pro: extended programmable (LUA)

BLI support grouping of Netlink and/or Beocontrollink devices (one is the main, the other follow)

[Carolpa]

Millemissen wrote:

Edit! Do I understand it correct…..if I use the Beolink Gateway, I could avoid using the second NL/ML Converter, that I am just about to install. Or do I need the (second) converter as well? I have ML products/Master and CD, that I want to be able to use along with my NL devices. MM

You will need both, the BLC (Beolink NL/ML converter) and the Beolink Gateway (despite the hardware is the same).

[Carolpa]

Millemissen wrote:

Thank you guys! I knew you’d be able to help – I had hoped for it to come Now I have something to study – I guess I’ll have to play with the BLI, before I really understand it. It is a pity that one has to buy an expensive device/the BLI just because you want to (read: have to) exchange your old bulbs and you still want to use the one and only Beoremote. But I also see the reasons why this so! Life was so easy with the old Light Controls (I have had mine for 20 + years) MM

BLI is an expensive solution, but the LC weren’t cheap either.

And as you describe they are more than 20+ years old, so not surprising that there would be a moment you come to this point. The positive: the BLI is more versatile than simple LC’s

Note: maybe you could opt for a second hand Beolink Gateway. It can handle Hue lights also.

 

[Carolpa]

Severed_hand_of_skywalker wrote:

beojeff wrote:

With a BLI, the Halo becomes even more useful in the living room. You can control the lights, thermostat, etc. I can even push a button to make the Roomba vacuum start cleaning.

All true. The problem is I can do all that by voice with a $30 Google home, every iOS device around me, my applewatch, my logitech remote or my $60 hue tap wireless switch (looks like a plastic eclipse).

All true…..

but isn’t that true for all B&o stuff…….. you can always find cheaper alternatives/solutions, some with additional features, but……..

it isn’t B&o!

 

and by the way, I despise conversations which starts with “hey……”

[Carolpa]

RR wrote:

Thanks very much everyone. Just to re-confrim what’s BLC?

Beolink converter NL/ML

[Carolpa]

steve1977 wrote:

Thanks. This still keeps the screen on and displays a blackscreen? I thought there would be a way not to turn on the screen, but connect directly with the audio module?

The screen is muted, not just displaying a black screen.
see the difference yourself when it switches off.

[Carolpa]

Millemissen wrote:

Where do I find a guide for setting up the BLI with smart bulbs for use with the Beoremote One/BT? The BROne/BT is prepared for this, so why no guide? Of course I did search, but all I find is how to use the app. https://khimo.github.io/bli-guides/bli-quick-setup-guide.html How do I get rid of the (in my case) unused ‘Control entries’ there – and how to edit the ‘Light entries’ to suit my own use case? If no guide excists, I would be thankfull for any hints on how to, if one just want light controlling with the Beoremote One/BT and the BLI device. MM

does this help?

https://khimo.github.io/bli-guides/ideas/howto-OneRemote-BLI

[Carolpa]

steve1977 wrote:

I have a BV Horizon. I have a few questions how to stream audio to it:

• I can use “join” in the B&O APP to play audiostreams. However, this turns on the TV. I’d prefer that it only plays audio with the screeen staying off. Is this possible?
• I am wondering whether I can define a speaker group that I can play to when hitting “join” rather than the BV Horizon speakers.

Thanks for any help!

Join,

Wait a minute and the screen will mute (a principle going back to times using the remote command AV <source> on ML tv’s)

[Carolpa]

Millemissen wrote:

Only way I see, is to have an Essence MK2 or a Core connected to the line-in of the A8. MM

or BLC

[Carolpa]

steve1977 wrote:

Any thoughts on my issue above?

Hi,

you did set Google to 2 step authentication, right?

you confirmed, this is working with a Google account?
did you log out on the BV40 and log in again? did your phone then ask for the verification?

 

[Carolpa]

some questions:
1. the setup was completed fully after choosing Chromecast ON?

2. did you try it with Chromecast off?

3. you only tried to Chromecast?

4. do you have a TuneIn account; if so, log in on the Core and try to play a radio station on TuneIn with the B&0 app? Otherwise make an account (it’s for free) and log in on the Core and start TuneIn as a source of the Core in the B&o app.

5. so the speakers played for several minutes? Every time again?

[Carolpa]

asaghibli wrote:

Severed_hand_of_skywalker wrote:

Well I installed the new firmware and the battery life of the table model seems significantly worse again:( Also I just encountered the dreaded boot-loop bug again, that was fixed a couple op updates back and not seen since then, it’s back!

I can confirm that the boot-loop is back. Waiting on B&O support to confirm and give me a fix.

2 Halo’s ; both automatically updated some two weeks ago. One shows no issues what-so-ever. The other had the boot-loop. But after a factory reset it just works as before.

Both Halo-batteries hold for approximate a week, as before the update.

[Carolpa]

beojeff wrote:

As it’s been many years since I mounted my Beovision 4-42 on its fixed wall bracket, I can’t remember how to remove it. From diagrams that I’ve found, it looks like there are four protrusions on the back of the Beovision that fit into the wall bracket? Would it be correct that you just lift the Beovision up a little and then back it away from the wall?

One can lift the BV4 off. But did you place the securty screws during installation?

Remove them first.

[Carolpa]

beojeff wrote:

Thank you for your response, Carolpa. I wouldn’t even had thought about the security screws. Could you tell me where they are located?

the “A”s

[Carolpa]

Steve at Sounds Heavenly wrote:

Adding a turntable via the Aux input, now that would make it really great, what a good idea! Kind regards, Steve.

like this?

 

Steve do you sell a cable PL to Aux-in (DIN-DIN or RJ45-DIN) to use the BS1 as “speaker”.

[Carolpa]

Mr10Percent wrote:

Hi, Im putting out a request to see if anyone has either the Eclipse assembly instructions somewhere or links to YT training videos? This is the screen/soundbar pairing – not the stand pairing. Thank you 10

Presumably you’ll find it in here:

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=beovision+eclipse+installation+instruction&&view=detail&mid=B08CB61BB458EAB9D20AB08CB61BB458EAB9D20A&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dbeovision%2520eclipse%2520installation%2520instruction%26FORM%3DVDVVXX

 

[Carolpa]

Sia43 wrote:

Thanks, Carolpa, for the explanation. Let’s put it this way. If in the above system, I send a signal to Beogram, for example, commanding, “start playing the record”. This signal will be an NL signal that will be sent to NL/ML converter.

This is data signal sent to the right BLC, because on NL level it is know where the source is connected.

There it is converted to ML signal and from there to BLC, where it is finally translated to Dattalink commanding “play”.

ML data-address defines to which device it should send the command to

The Beomaster receives this Datalink command and sends either the same command to the Beogram or does something with that command, so the Beogram understands it.

The Beomaster translate the command to playing the Beogram.

So, if I understand you correctly, the signals are different, so Beomaster does something to the original signal.

Sorry but I do not understand what you mean with this remark. The BM simply follow the instruction given and starts the source. The same for the other devices. They, the commands, open a path for the source, Beogram, to be played in the linked system.

note:

1. you have the audio signals
2. you have the data signals for controlling the system

However, It would be great to understand what it does to the signal. It would, for example, be great if the difference could be learnt so that NL-could, after some coding, send a proper signal that could communicate with the Beogram without necessary translation by the Beomaster, simply send signals that are ready to use to ht Beogram. This could make the Beomaster redundant, which has no function in modern B&O networks other than translating signals for the Beogram. The same could hold for Beocord or Beogram CD (if someone would like to use those sources).

That would be a BLC with the additional logic of an integrated Beomaster (discussed before on the previous forum).

 

 

 

[Carolpa]

Sia43 wrote:

Many thanks, Guy for your explanations and valuable advice. I will add the Delay-box to my list of stuff to acquire. Also, thank you for the link to Iconic-AV. I will contact them for the RIAA preamp. However, I still can’t stop thinking about the necessity of a Beomaster in the system. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe that Beomaster was needed to receive the IR commands and convert them to DATA-link so that the Beogram can be controlled remotely (since it doesn’t have its own IR receiver). In a system based on NL, however, necessary commands can be sent by Halo to the Beomaster (and through it to Beogram), enabling control of the Beogram. This signal is received from Halo -> NL -> NL/ML converter, which converts the signal to ML signals, and then the ML singles are converted again to DL signals (though BL Converter 1611) and sent from there to the Beogram (through the Beomaster). Since it seems like the Beomaster is necessary, it would be great to understand what Beomaster does to the signal (if any) before it is sent to the Beogram. However, If there is no change to the signal, it should be possible to eliminate the Beomaster.

1) you could connect the Beogram to the BLC (line-in), but you only can select the source line-in. You cannot control the Beogram (none at all, with or without RIAA preamp).
2) so there we have the difference, you need “brains” to control the Beogram! And these brains are provided by the Beomaster (nothing else will do).

[Author]

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