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same from my listening experiences too – spent a fair bit of time flicking between 2 speaker groups : (A) Theatre with rear 28s (the triangle), and (B) Theatre, rear 28s, and front 18s (triangle plus front l/r)…..and while there is little doubt that the triangle on its own (A) is really really good, and will be plenty immersive for many modest living rooms, when it changed to (B) with the added front l/r’s, I did prefer the wider soundstage.
Helpful, Sandy, thanks. Where do you get the most bang for the buck – with the 28s in the rear and the 18s up front (as you are now configured)? Or conversely, with the 28s in front & 18s in rear?
Adding the front 18s to the triangle was not a binary, black / white, night and day difference though, and hence I can see why B&O are suggesting the triangle (with 28s rears) as a more than enough immersive setup for many.
But for those a bit soundstage width sensitive (I’m in that camp), adding fronts does make an appreciable width improvement.
Thanks for this. Understanding that there are degrees of goodness, not simply great/awful dichotomies, helps with the monetary side of the buying decision. That said, I’m a wide soundstage guy myself.
I prefer the sound with the 18’s acting as front left and right. ….I am glad I have the 18’s up front though!
Do the 18’s up front widen the width of the soundstage?
22 October 2022 at 05:07 in reply to: BeoLab 8000: 5-pin cable from RCA-PCB to LED-PCB sensitive #39849I’ve had similar hum issues on BL 8000s when using the RCA jack, but not when using PL. In my case the RCA jack began to loosen on the PCB board. At first the movement is barely perceptible, and the hum is soft. Over time as you move the speaker or touch the RCA cable, the jack wiggles more and the hum becomes an uncomfortable yowl. A mechanical issue surely caused by endless plugging/unplugging RCA over 30 years.
I re-soldered the feet of the RCA jack to back to the board, and (fingers crossed) all is well.
along with my 3 x sets of BeoLab 17 speakers for surrounds & height on WiSA
Will you mount a pair of 17s on the ceiling?
Running a single BL4000 as center speaker with BL 8000s as front l/r. Had this config forever, and I’m very comfortable with it.
I must have missed it, beosince – where is the magic movement shown?
From the support pages:
“While Beosound Theatre features seven built-in channels (centre, left front, right front, left front up-firing, right front up-firing, left front side-firing and right front side-firing), it is also possible to connect to eight wired speakers using Powerlink, and eight speakers using Wireless Powerlink.”
I’ve been playing with exactly this in the past few days. No visual indicator that I’ve seen. After configuration fiddling, I got my Apple devices to send an Atmos stream to my Core/Shape. Counterintuitively, I found that Atmos narrowed the perceived sound stage.
What’s your experience?
EDIT: to be clear, assuming you’re using Apple Music, the visual indicator is the presence of the Atmos logo on the Apple Music page, as you’re playing the stream. If not configured properly, the logo won’t appear.
For the original poster: roundhead, I recommend investigating local repair shops that can handle a Beosound 9000. I don’t know where you’re located; I can tell you that in my local area there are literally no repair shops qualified to attempt a repair, nor will they try if you ask.
Two-way shipment of a fragile piece of legacy B&O through the courier systems to a remote repair shop is fraught…
Given the age of the system, you pretty much guarantee that a repair will be in your future, unfortunately.
Derek, please let us know how it goes. I’m also in the U.S., also have a 9500, fragile enough that I worry. I’d love to find a knowledgeable repair shop.
The CD issue is typically either the laser or dry capacitors. If the latter, Dillon (BeoParts-shop.com) has a kit that worked for me.
To follow up on trackbeo’s recommendations, you might try calling/emailing B&O support — tell them you’re in the Chicago area and need repair work for you B&O product that’s under warranty. Ask them who they recommend for warranty work.
Short answer to a long post: write to Steve@SoundsHeavenly and ask how to connect your Denon to the Pentas.
Longer answer: Sounds Heavenly web site is down ATM, so I can’t confirm, but I’m 99% sure that he offers a solution that attenuates speaker-level, so you can connect to Denon speaker outputs to …PL, iirc. That will be your cost-effective option.
If you want to upgrade the AVR, there are a zillion options. Just ensure that it has line-out jacks for all 5.1 channels (or 7.1 or whatever), and that it supports surround sound through those jacks.
If you decide to dedicate the Pentas to a stereo setup in another room, and want to use a B&O source that isn’t your Beocenter 2500, then again you have choices. You’ll need RIAA amplification for the Beogram, either built in to the Beomaster, or outboard. The Beomaster 1600 is the time-period match for your turntable….but it lacks PL output.
If you want low profile Beomaster with PL, look into the pizza-boxes: Beomaster 5500, 6500, 7000. These are more period-relevant to your Pentas, and have RIAA amplification built-in.
I’m also in the U.S. I’ve been using a 200w step-up transformer with a 220v BL 2 for a few years. No issues.
I’m also keen to know what sort of SPL the BL3 are capable of, and if they are better suited to near-field or mid-field listening – I can’t find much online.
“Maximum Sound Pressure Level 94 dB (stereo, pair)”. “It can be used for either main speakers or for rear surround-sound.”
Matador, there is a series of YouTube videos that details the process of opening up the BL8000s. It’s a good series — I used it myself to open both of my 8000s a year or so ago.
The series was created by Pyramid Audio in Austin, Texas. Let me know if you can’t find it, and I”ll dig for it.
Congratulation, McRib, if you’re the one who snagged this. I had my eye on it but moved too slowly. Functioning Beocenters are for sale far too rarely in the U.S.
If you have an appropriate remote (Beolink 1000, Beo4, iirc), try that. There can be failure in the touch-sensitive glass, while the balance of the unit is ok.
As of this morning you will see “QUOTE” in the menu above each reply. You just press the quote link in the reply you wish to quote and it will be transferred into the reply editor at the bottom of the thread as below. Beware, if you are in the editor in “Visual” mode your typed text will enter inside the quoted text area, so I suggest you click the “Text” tab before typing your reply.
Testing my understanding. Thanks, Keith.
if the Mac is in another room you have to go to that other room, select the devices, then you will be able use Audirvana. If the devices are not selected on the Mac then Audirvana cannot “see” them. So although, yes, you can use the remote app for Audirvana on a mobile phone to select the output, that is only the case if the outputs are available to Audirvana on the Mac and for the Airplay 2 device to be available it has to be selected as the output on the Mac.
Would you like to remotely control your Mac from your mobile device (assuming it’s an iPhone or iPad)? If yes, go to the iOS App Store and type “VNC”. They come in all shapes and colors 🙂 . The iOS app named “Screens” v.4 from Edovia has been well-reviewed in the Mac press, though I don’t own it myself, and have no affiliation with any vendor.
I agree with all of your post, Carolpa.
When I was growing up, B&O products were simply magical. I hate the cliché, but they really were ‘outside the box.’
The Shape is, to me, the product that brings back the magic. And it goes without saying that it’s literally outside of the box. My audiophile friends have no idea what it is, even after I explain it.
“Any technology sufficiently advanced is indistinguishable from magic.” ~ Arthur C. Clarke
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