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The pins from the original transformer are bend and then soldered. When removing the old burned transformer it is hard not to damage the pad. Even with appropriate tools.
Missing solder pad at the transformer pin below number 1 in your photo? Martin
The missing pads aren’t the problem. The primary winding sits between pin 1 and 3 on that replacement transformer. The old transformer was capable to be used for several voltages and accordingly connected.
Between 1 and 3 you should measure 230V AC. If that’s not there, then there has to be a failure between the (board)connector and the transformer. For T2 there isn’t any voltages to transform.
It (sometimes, rare) happens that the noise filter (Coil) fails. I assume that you thoroughly checked for broken traces.Did you measure on the outer pins of T2? The 2 outer on the left side should have 230V AC and on the right outerside there should be around 36V AC? The bridge on the right side has been done to connect both windings on the secondary side of T2 for symmetrical use/powersupply.
If not, then it will be just a matter of time, I guess.
You can control the Harmony with its soundcenter with the Halo.The Workaround shows that you can use a RJ to RCA cable to provide the Line In with music.
It’s a pity that the BL5’s doesn’t have autosensing in comparison with for instance the BL4/6/8000’s etc. With the BL5’s you still need to switch them on manually with a ir-remote. That’s a bit awkward when you control the latest tv’s and soundbars with a Bluetooth remote 1.If I remember correctly the Wisa speakers transmit also their id’s with the signal. So, wouldn’t it be possible to also send some data with the signal to provide the BL5’s?
Can’t be that difficult I think?It’s funny that there (with one or two exceptions) was no mentioning of a required ethernet connection between tv and soundcenter, as we know it from the previous LG-based Beovisions in the new install videos. Or was what we saw not LG-tv’s, but another brand, just a generic tv? We still need to know how the unit (including the LG-tv functions) is controlled with a Beoremote One. MM
I visited the demo 2 or 3 weeks ago and asked about this.
The LG still have to install a B&O app. But it is a downgraded version of the LG app when you compare it the Harmony’s sound center version.
The app in the LG store is needed to get the remote 1 working.No need to go crazy – your 5’s seem to work great……with PL. A connection with a receiver 1 is – with the 5’s – not possible. At least I know of noone, who has made that possible. MM
A question which did came up last weekend.
B&O still sells these receiver 1’s.
The question is whether these receivers work with BL5’s and directly to let’s say a Harmony, Eclipse or Theatre with Wisa. I know that the BL5 needs the powerlink data to start. Otherwise they switch on but you will have no sound.
Are there different revisions made?You can’t see it from the outside. The specifications aren’t mentioned either.
A acquaintance ordered this one some time ago. The needed voltages were way too low.
I have the correct transformer(s) for less..I think that it will not disintegrate as the old version did. But the new type of foam isn’t perfect either. From around 2003 (where the newer version was used) and upwards I also see and experience that the new foam affect circuitboards. More noticeable in BL4000’s for instance.
Correct.
I strip the BL8000’s always completely. To the bare tube.
The foam tape isn’t part of the foam-kit. There are 2 different types used. A 6mm and a 19mm wide foam-tape.
I use the original foam-tape used by B&O to keep the BL8000 as original as possible.The circuitboard provides different settings for different voltages. It’s logically be (re)placing some SMD jumpers(s).
I would advise to let it be done by someone with electronic skills.Have you tried to enter the BIOS and look whether the harddrive is chosen as first bootable drive? It might be the CMOS backup battery which fails and therefore settings are lost.
The newer version of foam has been improved compared with to the previous one. The foam sits tight around the bass pipe to prevent audible resonance at lower frequencies.
The V-shape sits on top of the other parts and provides a “chamber” for the drivers.I’m not allowed to do it inside anymore. 🙂
Looking at the picture, it is for sure that the T2/standby/small audio transformer has been replaced. On ebay they sell the wrong version. But I would start by measuring the voltages after T2 and it’s rectifier circuit.
Just curious, Is it going to be a mono or left/right speaker? Most Bluetooth modules are stereo (which can be made mono), but when you aim for a stereo setup, how would that work? One module inside and linking to another?
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