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Disconnecting the tweeter doesn’t help. A ceased tweeter is the same as disconnecting it. Measure the impedance of the both mid and tweeter. When these show an impedance of several ohms less than 10 ohm, then the amplifier is faulty.
In case of a faulty amplifer, I can fix these in combination with maintenance to prevent other often strange symptoms.Located in The Netherlands.
The Beolab 2 is completely different when comparing with the BL8000.
Where you easy can solve problems with the BL8000 with the available diagrams and knowledge, the BL2 is a processor based speaker where the auto protect can be triggered by different causes. Diagrams are only available on a minimal level.
I’ve seen it yesterday.
It’s a mix of improved sound of the Beolit 20 and functionality of the Level. So mozart based with wifi, stereo pairing etc.
The looks of it is very nice.Leave the D1 as it is. They rarely fail and it seems that you’re able to trigger the system with your multimeter, So Tr1 works.
It’s not clear what your figures are. I guess that these 584 and 726 are mV’s? As your using the multimeter in the diode testing mode. I provides you the forward voltage from a diode. The first number 584 will probably 0.584V and the forward voltage of D1. The second 726 is probably 0.726V and the forward voltage of the internal diode of Tr1 (base-emitter). This is the result of in-circuit measuring of components. This explains why the BL8000 switches on when you put the probes over D1. The multimeter uses a small voltage (mostly around 2V) to test the forward voltage of a diode.
I would start by measuring whether there is a voltage on the base of Tr1 when powering on and off. It should be 0V (in standby) or 0.7V (forward voltage) on the base of Tr1. Resulting in the collector of Tr1 going down to ground level.
D1 is only used to protect Tr1 for negative voltages provided on pin4 on the powerlink plug.@Glitch: Exact something like that.
@ Geoff: I do understand the logic with the BL50, 90’s etc. As I’ve read all your blogs 😉
So, the idea was/is to convert the passive Penta’s into active versions. And as you need the same drivers for the side/back, it seems the easiest way to use the same Penta’s (which would also be active) to send the audio for eq’s compensation.
Not the easiest task, I know. I wasn’t thinking of providing the “side” penta’s the same audio signal.I’ve designed (theoretic) active filters for the penta about almost 10 yrs ago. Bought several Hypex ICE power amplifiers with a separate power supply. But it never got to really building something out of that.
I tried a bit of measuring with a Minidsp Umik-1 USB microphone and REW software some time ago. Just out of curiosity. Was wondering what my set Penta’s would generate. Knowing that the room and (listening)position of the speakers influences the sound a lot, so I am just wondering what adding 2 sets of Penta’s (with probably only using the woofers and mids) would enhance the performance.The BL7-4 hardwires internally the left and right channel. So, in a stereo setup you need to split the cable into a dedicated left or right channel.
If you use a powerlink socket on for instance a BS3 you will notice that 2 channels will give sound on the BL7-4 on the used socket.
Same here. Founder member from start and always kept the same status.
The red part is used to secure both arms during transport.
The small screwdriver for setting the weight for the needle. The small rectangular stick is used to measure the weight.
You’re missing a small brush to clean the needle. It happens that these are fallen inside the cabinet somewhere.I’ve seen boards where IC1 was “upgraded” to a OPA2134. It a rather silly exercise as IC1 only handles the signal for autodetect. The actual audio signal doesn’t pass IC1 through to the amplifiers.
Every dual opamp which works with symmetrical power supply will do the job.As far as I remember you were able to change settings by repeatedly pressing picture or sound on the BL1000.
When a BL8000 fails to start after a while then most of the times this is caused by a failing NTC, autodetection or steering of the relais.
But as it responds to a trigger signal you can eliminate the NTC and steering for the relais.
So you have to look for the culprit in the autodetection. It happens regurlarly that IC1 fails.
Most of the failing components do not have visible damage. Just with measuring you will find out. For checking the IC a scope has a preference.You just need to place a new cell which can be soldered. There isn’t a holder.
All the backup batteries in masters, centers etc are soldered in B&O products. Only the mainboard in a Beomaster 5 has a holder for it’s BIOS backup battery.Put back the original software. The communication between drive and upc doesn’t work.
Whenever the laser is not focusing, the clamper will open. Yours doesn’t respond anymore, so it has nothing to do with the pickup element.Audiofriends exists already for a long time and is most reliable en knowledgeable.
Hi Veronica,
Distance is relative…
I can provide complete restorations to a considerable serious level whereby components and adjustments are made to achieve a really smooth working Beogram 4002 again.
Just troubleshooting isn’t always the best option especially when you want to avoid unnecessary transport for that “distance”.
Location: The NetherlandsBR, Beobuddy.
It’s a configuration that should work.
By pressing Radio on the remote the BV10 comes to life and drives the BS9000. (V-opt 2 and A-opt 0).
By pressing CD the same happens but the digital signal will overide the analog signal on the powerlink. Still fully wired powerlink cables are needed to control the BL5’s.
Which mk is your BS9000?I can provide the correct transformer for 230V market. Fit’s in the original position.
PM me for details.Ebay and other versions with 15V are incorrect.
Beobuddy.
I happens sometimes. Not often.
It then happens that one of the ic’s on the board underneath the cover has died.
Replace the PCB or just the defective ic.That’s the same as with the Eclipse and Harmony.
The Beoremote One BT act as an 2 way remote. Options are send into the BR1BT.
Under listing of TV/Music you will get the different sources. And under List you’ll get the different options/settings.So, you measure from 7 along the trace to point 3 where the trace is broken.
But, you should have continuity between A and 1, and between B (through 7) and 3. Piece of wire between 7 and 3 will solve it.(or at the point of where the trace is broken) - AuthorPosts