[Beobuddy]

The BS9000 was designed in the era that it could be used as standalone (A-option 1, factory setting), or used in a so-called “master-slave” setup, where in the same room another video product was placed and was setup in a V-option 2. In this master-slave setup the loudspeakers are attached to the Video -product and soundsettings are made in that video product. Both products are then connected throught the Masterlink cable for distributing both audio and instruction commands.

So, by not connecting the BS9000 with active loudspeakers or putting it in A-option 0, the BS9000 assumes that speakers are attached to another product where sound settings normally are made.

The software for the BS9000 has been designed that way and was aimed to be used in a B&O ecosystem. It doesn’t make sense according to that system to use the BS9000 as standalone and disable the functions for remote and soundsettings. Starting a source on a BS9000 did make sense though, where the rest of the system follows accordingly.

[Beobuddy]

A Beolab 5 can calibrate even without any cables attached. Just a powercord should be fine.

When the led flashes green without any sound, often the amplifier for the lower bass has ceased.

But begin at the start. The BL5 normally used in L-opt 0 when used with powerlink cords. L-opt 1 is used when you use then with 3rd party players.
When you set them in L-opt 1, you use Radio to activate the BL5’s. Can you feel any vibration at the lower bass when playing music?

[Beobuddy]

The BL4000mk2 needs a new or another ICE amplifer. Be carefull as the erractic sounds may harm the tweeter. Wouldn’t be the first that has been ceased because of the sound.

The BL1 needs a service, which I might be able to provide. It’s not just a capacitor/wire/whatever.

[Beobuddy]

All of the above is good advise when it indeed is about the BM7000 and former series with their discrete build amplifiers.

The BC9500 has a simplified amplifier consisting a STK module without the idle and offset trimmers.

The reason the BC9500 shuts off is most off the time caused by voltage on the output due to a malfunction in the powersupply or defective STK module.

[Beobuddy]

Try to play the BL5. Does the lower woofer at the bottom vibrate while playing music?

[Beobuddy]

If you look at the diagram from PCB 15. The drivers are placed the way they are drawn from top to bottom.

[Beobuddy]

I hope this will be enough. I made it ages ago 😉
Looking towards the drivers when placed, the tweeter sits at the right side.
I understand it can be sometimes a bit confusing.

[Beobuddy]

I searched a drawing of the wiring. It is taken from behind. So looking at the sockets.

[Beobuddy]

As I look more closely, your wiring is wrong.

[Beobuddy]

If you have no sound from the mids that means your mids has been wired the wrong way. Sometimes only 1 driver produces sound.
There are 2 sets consisting of 2 drivers. Each set are in series. The first set are the outer ones. These 2 are in series. 1 orange wire goes from the (+) to the (-) on the other side.

Then the 2 middle drivers are in series. Again one (+) connected with the other one (-) with a orange lead. The blue and orange leads are connected correctly. The orange wires which goes down the tower can be interchanged without problems. These 2 end both at the same junction at the board. If wiring is correctly done but you still have hardly any sound from them (outer 2 drivers deliver less sound than the 2 middle ones due to the filtering on the board), then check L3 on PCB 15. It happens that these are burned.

[Beobuddy]

NickNS wrote:

. Seller told me that amplifiers were re-capped, and mids have new (rubber) surroundings. NickNS

If you would take replacing the mids with rubber surrounds”” as reference for the complete service what has been done, then I don’t have much confidence in the quality what has been done.
Often the so-called and mis-used term “refurbished” is used by some who barely can handle a solder iron and just start replacing all the caps and call it job done at that point.

Occasionally I get sets from new-(secondlife) owners who just bought their set which starts malfunctioning. Sometimes it’s eye sobbering how bad the quality of soldering is. “Let’s put just some extra solder there on that joint” seams to be thought resulting in nice floating solder balls just above the joints. I’ve seen it on some throughout compplete boards.

But just wondering whether the BM5000 ever has had some attention. What output is used? The speakersockets or the pre-amp level output. Due to aging in the relays that also might affect the quality of the sound. As with lots of other possible causes.

[Beobuddy]

Ad I already mentioned. BL2 and BL5 have the same modules. The 500W modules differ in connection sockets

The lower and upper bass from the BL5 are the same. Both Class D as the bass from the BL1. Design wise different boards and components.

If you’re able to order a new ICE 1000W module, not the stil available 500W, then you probably luckily solved this issue. As changing the modules for the bass made difference.

[Beobuddy]

Thank you!
I will contact you by d.m.

[Beobuddy]

There are no (public) available diagrams. That makes them hard to repair. If something goes wrong during trying then it can go severe wrong due to the strong power supply driving them.

The modules aren’t manufactured and sold anymore. I don’t expect that they will make another batch off modules due to the limited specifications off these and it probably only will be to replace defective ones.

I’ve managed to fix a number of modules and am working on reverse-engineering back to drawing diagrams for future repairs. I’ve invested in a sincere amount of a money in special power supplies, differential probes, electronic loads, parts, etc. to get them fixed. But, agreed, with original diagrams life would be much easier.

If you’re searching for a quick fix, then I would suggest that you look for a cheap BL2 and take out the module in that one.

At first glance there seems to be some resemblance but there are difference (BL7-4). I don’t see that with the BL1, other that it has also an ICE powered section for the bass. Mid and high are driven by Class-B amplifiers.

[Beobuddy]

For erasing the memory you can use a Beo4, BL1000 or MCP.
For setting de FM display setting you’ll need a MCP. Only then you’ll get the frequency displayed. But then again, if you’re just a bit off the correct frequency while tuning with a Beo4 for instance, who will notice 😉
I have several MCP’s and Beo4’s laying around, so never thought of that issue. But with a Beo4 you can check and store the sound settings.

[Beobuddy]

If the backup battery has been replaced I always perform a erasure of the memory. That set back the basic settings. After that you mostly have to set the FM display offset. But that’s easy.

[Beobuddy]

Guy has it right. The senders of the infrared light are actual led’s with the shape of a standard 3 mm led. Located in the yellow circles. The receivers have the same shape as the infrared receivers in the red circle, but located at the sides.

This system causes hardly any issues. Most of the time when the doors(and clamper) don’t slide (or moves) there is an issue with its powersupply or other cause.
When you hold the black covers towards incoming sunlight, you can look through them. So painting them isn’t an option indeed.

[Beobuddy]

Foam for the BL8000’s aren’t manufactured or on stock anymore. So, find yourself a set at a dealer who’s willing to sell you (tricky question when they know they can’t order anymore)

[Beobuddy]

I’ve done dozens off these and the BL5’s are becoming a bit risky, to say the least.

@ Marexy. Change both 2 modules at the side of the chassis with each other. If the problem travels from the upper bass to the lower bass, then you know that it is an amplifier problem.

If the problem stays at the same driver, then the problem might be the mute section or lies in the filter section.

Btw, tweeters are very costly nowadays.

[Beobuddy]

I have a complete frame with ACM taken from my BV9 2 years ago. It has the black colour.

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