[Keith Saunders]

Guy is working on the following

[Guy]

Thanks Keith – my original text follows …

I thought that I would re-start this thread on the ‘new’ forum, if only to do a quick test of posting photos ?

I recently got hold of a DVD1, which I presume is the more recent Type 4621. Although there is no B&O label on the back, the rear socket layout matches the manual for the 4621 so that’s good enough for me. Anyway, on testing it played very well but occasionally there was a slight resonant (plastic) vibration. I opening it up and noticed a missing screw in the front of the tray mechanism.

Keith has added the photo to the first post (after my photo uploading problems)- you can just see the missing screw hole in the mount nearest the camera. I think it was missing from new, as the mounts internal thread had either stripped or slipped down. I found some slightly longer TX10 M3 x 10mm screws and this tightened fine. No more vibration ?

As a test, I will try to upload a photo of the screws that I purchased.

(No – still didn’t work, and I tried both drag/drop and from file manager!)

[Guy]

Finishing off my earlier post with a quick photo of the TX10 M3 screws that I purchased to fix the DVD1 . I got the screws from ‘BoltBase’ on Amazon – a very quick delivery.

And the picture uploaded fine – thanks Keith! ?

[AdamS]

I’m fettling a Beocord 8004 currently. The biggest headache has been trying to work out where the mystery leftover spring sitting on my workbench after the belt change came from! At this rate, I’m going to have to pull the mechanism out of my own 8004 and do a side-by-side comparison.

I’m also trying to acquire two new relays for a Beomaster 8000. RS have had them as “due in stock March 2022” since January, so I’ve been waiting patiently. They duly appeared, I put my order in and the stock went overnight – now showing “due September 2022”.

Luckily I’ve found them at Digi-Key but had to sneakily order them through work…

[AdamS]

Update – I’ve found where the mystery spring goes. It connects between a peg on the top plate and a metal bracket that is missing!

What the hell sort of trauma has this 8004 been through?!

[Guy]

Hopefully fixing a Beocom 6000. The call answer and ‘C’ keys were only working intermittently, and then the phone would randomly shut down. I tried a new battery and a handset reset but to no avail.

Anyway, I have just taken the phone to pieces and reversed the little contact strip between the keyboard and PCB (it’s a bit like the screen connector in the Beo4) and now it all seems to be working!

Although I have spare BC6000s somewhere I needed to fix this one because it’s a Mk1 that has had the upgrade to a Mk2, hence has the right pins to charge correctly on my mk 1 pyramid base PSTN.

[filip_kbh]

Beolit 700 – replacing the dial cord.

Argh – that took a long time and there was a learning curve. First of all finding the right diagram for the cord path – look in the service manual for Beolit 500, because the one found in the service manual for Beolit 700 shows something completely different. After fiddling with the damn string – that I got for free in a Danish fishing equipment store – for literally hours, I figured that I should have a different approach. In the beginning I had tied both ends to the spring which proved to be a huge mistake. New approach: Tie one end to the spring, wind the string four times around the tuner dial knob, wrap it in the correct path and then tie the second end to the string and then snap the spring back down. Job done. Now I just need a few pills for my headache.

[didier]

I’m refurbishing a pair of Beovox RL 60.2 – one of them had 3 pieces of moulding inside that were broken. They usually hold the screw, so trying to unscrew them would just turn the screw as if the thread was stripped… Fun! Fixed with polyurethane which was what I had available then and I recovered with a new fabric. I have the second one to do now…

I also have a Beomaster 8000 next, but with a hot right heatsink so I’m not in a hurry to get at it. Although I did crack it open to see its state and it doesn’t seem too bad overall.

Then a beogram 2000 low on my priorities, since I’ll need to purchase a cartridge to test further…

[hcraig244]

[Evan]

I’m back in the US for a little while so I’m trying to sort out one of my other previous acquisitions, BL Penta MK2. They need the full overhaul so I bought all 3 cap kits and new foam surrounds. These will be the main L/R channels in the master bedroom and the basis of a surround system (eventually!).

[Gravity Graham]

I’m working on a BeoMaster 1900-2. After changing electrolytics, I am still having problems powering it up…
On investigation the ON/OFF switch has a high resistance on one side !!
Now dismantling to try and fix/replace the faulty switch before proceeding further…
Photos to follow..
Graham

[DanteM]

Gluing some basstraps on the corners and praying for wife to allow them…

 

[Tignum]

Replaced noisy fans with the most silent Noctua fans I could find (on sticky old ugly bedroom BV7-32 that came with a BL7-1 I bought)

[pepps]

Evan wrote:

I’m back in the US for a little while so I’m trying to sort out one of my other previous acquisitions, BL Penta MK2. They need the full overhaul so I bought all 3 cap kits and new foam surrounds. These will be the main L/R channels in the master bedroom and the basis of a surround system (eventually!).

Looking forward to seeing/reading some more on this project.

[AdamS]

I’m working on a big speaker drive unit re-foaming session currently.

The two drivers at the left rear are from RL140s and I’m sure you can all work out where the SIXTEEN midrange drivers at the front came from!

 

[fkatze]

It’s been about 3 years I’ve been separated from by Beomaster 2000, but I have finally gotten it back on the bench. I had a new tuner board made, and it has now been fit into place, and looks like it will be a goer. Dial cord broke, so I am going to try and get it fit up again tomorrow. That should just about be all that needs doing, though I’d like to do the AM/FM alignment, but my function generator isn’t with me. Photo’s to follow as I get around to it.

[armandc1]

I know this post is from March, but I have to ask what the issue with that DVD1 is? I have one I got for next to nothing as it is broken but in beautiful cosmetic condition. When loading a disc it just states reading and never starts playing. Is there a common repair for this? I have heard that the DVD1 was kind of junk from the beginning but it would be great to get it going again if its simple. Disc spins and everything looks alright inside but it just wont play!

[Guy]

armandc1 wrote:

I know this post is from March, but I have to ask what the issue with that DVD1 is? I have one I got for next to nothing as it is broken but in beautiful cosmetic condition. When loading a disc it just states reading and never starts playing. Is there a common repair for this? I have heard that the DVD1 was kind of junk from the beginning but it would be great to get it going again if its simple. Disc spins and everything looks alright inside but it just wont play!

If your referring to my post in March then the only problem was a slight vibration when playing the disc. Replacement of the screw fixed it.

Perhaps the laser/lens needs cleaning on your DVD1. I have never tried this but it sometimes cures similar faults with CD players.

Alternatively, have a look through the two archived Forums to see if anyone had a similar fault. Be aware that there are two visually-similar models of DVD1: The Mk1 was type number 4620, and the Mk2 was 4621 – the type number is written on the product label on the rear. The latter model is supposed to be better, but I have never had a problem with either.

[Leosgonewild]

I just finished restoring this.

[matador]

Nice!

Did you change the lid or is it the original one? If so how did you get it back this nice?

[Author]

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