[B F]

Thanks!!!!

[matador]

DJneo wrote:

i have one speaker done and it looks wonderful.

That’s great work, thank you for sharing it!

[mojofml]

sorry disregard, just realized you’ve already addressed a wisdom relating to beolab 6000 above

[kronzilla]

You are right it looks much better than the very expensive ones (indeed too wide and bulky) and your solution is also alot cheaper

[beodane]

Thx for sharing 🙂

[Pit]

Wonderful idea and great realization. Thanks very much!
Peter

[BeoT]

Many thanks for sharing, keep up the good work

[gerard]

@matador

Thank you for sharing your project an the STLs.

The frets of my BL8000 have to be redone, I already have the fabric from Akustistoff, but new ideas come up to me 😉

Thanks

Merci beaucoup!

[RosenRot88]

Hi guys

Something wrong with STL file. When I import in cura or other slicer. dimensions are small, like 2mm in hight small. Also STLs in folder are corrupted and wont open.

Can you resend files please

Thanks and regards

[matador]

RosenRot88 wrote:

Hi guys Something wrong with STL file. When I import in cura or other slicer. dimensions are small, like 2mm in hight small. Also STLs in folder are corrupted and wont open. Can you resend files please Thanks and regards

Hi,

Read the whole thread. depending on your software you may need to scale it by 10’s factor.

The STL’s have been checked tonight and look ok. Given no other member have report problem and some have even already printed them, I let you investigate from your side.

Regards.

 

[Lemme]

Hi Matador

Is it possible for you to provide the original design file from the application that you used to create it with. Like Fusion 360, SketchUp or Tinkercad.

The reason is that I need to modify the model as the most used wooden frets here in DK are 5mm.

[matador]

Hi Lemme,

Once the STL generated I didnt kept the original 3D file (which was Cinema 4D BTW).
But I think you can “de-construct” the .STL file, I’ve checked it with CAD Assistant and all the parts are visible and do not look like merged.

Actually, adjusting the witness of the slots is the worst and more complicated part of the whole design, at least with the tools I had at hand. So the slots were roughly designed flat with… the dashed line tool in a vector design software (!), adjusted to be centered and then extruded in 3D. I remember that adding a slot, adjusting the size of it or moving them one side or another made instantaneously a mess.

My advice if I may: use your 5mm wood fret, mark where the touch the clamps and correct the witness with a file just on the rear part of the lamella. I had to do this for two or three sticks that were beyond tolerance (wood is sold for 4mm +/- 2%).

 

[Lemme]

Hi Matador
Thank you for a very swift response!

I can follow your trouble with creating all the wide slots in the correct angle – it must have been taken a lot of trial&error to get right.

As you sugget, I will try with CAD Assistant or similar tool first. If that do not work then you are right, I must adjust the wooden frets with a file.

Many thanks for you contribution!

[Lemme]

Hi all
Here in Denmark it seems that 5mm frets are more easily available. I have therefore created clamps based on 5mm frets.

I have created new STL files based on Matadors original clamp design, but slightly changed. They are 5mm wide, a litte deeper in the groove and more curved. There is also 3 clamps now. A Top, Middle and Buttom.

The Top and Middle clamps rests on the speaker structure – and the Buttom just floats. You can choose to replace the Middle with the Buttom clamp if you wish.

The clamps were made in Fusion 360. I have provided both the Fusion 360 files and the STL files. That way you can adjust the clamps to your specific needs if needed.

Credits go to Matador for starting this. He also approved to add the files here.

[matador]

I’ll add all the files to the first post.

[swo]

Did somebody found a drawing for Beolab 6000 ?

thx

[filipbrugge]

Waw, I did it and looks great. Thank you for sharing !

Did someone manage to do it for the beolab 6000 ?

I would really like to do the same on them.

Greetings from Belgium

 

[drmichi]

Thank you so much for sharing!

[matador]

tuttivini wrote:

@matador Wouldn’t it be better looking if you also design/print (with black PLA/PETG/ABS) the top panel instead of using piece of black cardboard cut to shape?

Yes it maybe would be. The thing is I dont undertsand anything in PLA/PETG/… plastics and I rely on an remote 16, hormonal dependent teenager for the printings. Then as soon as the wood grills were on the speakers I stopped research!

[drmichi]

You might have a problem to 3D print a nice and smooth surface, for sure you need to grind and paint it afterwards. I also used the black paper as a quick fix 🙂

I personally wouldn’t go for a flush top panel, since the design really adds some nice details if the wood covers are 2mm up, but still lower than the chrome head.

[Author]

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