[jbh2]

Hi.

New gear and belt for the lid, and its nearly OK.
Only problem is when lid close, it makes a little “jump” 2-3 mm, then closes fully.

I changed the blue cap. on the motor control pcb 8. It was 20 uF so I changed it to

the right one 68 uF. But that was not good. When lid opens fully it makes a bad “krak.krak” sound. Gave it the old 20 uF then, opens fine witout krak sound.

Does anyone have a tip with the small jump at closing ?

 

Br Jens

[quattttro]

How’s the plastic standoff that holds the lid/motor gear shaft? Mine was cracked quite badly.

[jbh2]

problem solved. By lubricating the belt with a little grease and reduce the friction

it works now. Opens and lid stops at top without crakking.

[Dillen]

Lubricating the belt?
Sounds more like an adjustment issue with the lid switch.

Martin

[jbh2]

Hi Martin, thank you for answer. (er du ikke dansk, syntes jeg har set Dillen navnet før ?)

I cant see how LID adjustment is possible, the lid switch is mounted with 2 small screws and it have very little tolerance in holes. I have tried to adjust.

Also the LOAD switch is with 2 screws.

I have seen that its possible in a CDX to adjust LOAD and LASER sw.

There is no LASER sw in a CDX 2 and no MAINS sw,

I need the schematic for a CDX 2, have only one for CDX.

In a CDX the LID motor UP/DOWN voltage must bee +5 volt and -5 volt.
But I have +8 volt and – 5 volt so maybe the +8 volt is too high at makes the crack sound ?

Mvh Jens

 

[Dillen]

Beogram CDX2 has more in common with Beogram CD3300 than CDX.
For some of the Beogram CDX2 circuits, you can use the CD3300 service manual.

Martin

[jbh2]

Thank you. I found the 3300 service manual and the schematic. Almost the same as in CDX 2.

The problem was the (too high) positive voltage to motor. ( LID up.) It was 8 volt.
I could not find any defective components, so I added a 15 ohm in series with the collector on the driver transistor to motor. Now it opens very smoothly.

The minus -5 volt was -4,4 v so that worked fine. ( LID down.)

[Author]

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