[auric]

Hi:

I have a Beolink 7000 remote that has started to turn on and off by itself when sitting in the recharge craddle.

I will put it into standby mode, it will turn off and then turn on again.

When powered on, it functions properly including the two way communication.

I have looked through the threads in both archived forums. They some very detailed information about recapping and display illumination, but I could not find a thread that covers this issue.

I prefer not to blindly recap the remote.

If I missed a relevant thread, could someone direct me to it? Otherwise, any ideas where I might try to look?

There is a copy of the service manual from Beoworld.org but there are no schematics other than the charger.

Thanks,

 

Derek

 

[Die_Bogener]

This is typical for a defect accu. Check the cells… 1,25-1,45V each, depending type. And all identical. Probably one cell will be lower with a problem.

Eneloop NiMh cells are pretty good for this job. 5 Years lifetime and longer. Some will run for 10 years.

NiCd are a good reason for scrapping the BL7000 in 2 years. They will loose their acid.

If you like pictures like this, use NiCd or standard NiMh…

Touch the metal plate. It must not become warm, even after days or weeks. Otherwise there is a recap necessary… not BL7000, the charger !!! Overload… and a 240V update.

 

 

[auric]

Hi: Die Bogener:

Thanks for responding!

->This is typical for a defect accu

What is “accu?”

This happens even when there is no battery pack.

I disconnected the battery pack. When the remote is on standby I get 8.1 volts across the leads to the battery pack. When it is awake mode, the voltage drops to 1.1 volts. But because the remote is constantly cycling from “Standby” to “off” to “on,” the battery is unable to charge.

Derek

[Die_Bogener]

What do you expect without accu?

The charger will not supply enough current to run the BL7000. Also a defect accu will not supply 6V 300mA minimum. To start the high voltage display (110V !!!) the BL7000 will need a second 500mA, then reducing to 300mA und after Start around 200mA. Every drop below 6V or over 8V will start a emergency cut off or blinking display as a warning.

… and 8V is a very healthy voltage when the BL7000 is made for 6V packs with peak Voltage 7,2V. It will or can limit lifetime to some minutes since some caps have a internal limit of 6,3V in the BL7000…

The bidirectional communication uses 5V and 6,3 V caps. That’s the reason for defects…

[trackbeo]

auric wrote:

What is “accu?”

Die_Bogener wrote:

What do you expect without accu?

As you probably gathered by now, @auric — but just in case — @Die_Bogener means a battery. The abbreviation comes from the rechargeable nature of it, an “energy ACCUmulator”.

[auric]

Die:

Many thanks! Turns out there was nothing wrong at all with the remote. As you said it was the battery. Oddly the battery was only 1 year old.

Thank you.

Derek

[Die_Bogener]

The circuit for the battery is very odd. There is always a current loading the battery depending on the voltage of the battery. Low voltage = high current.

High current= hot battery.

Hot battery = Spreading acid over the electronis = Dead BL7000

NiCd fails very soon. Sometimes 6 month…

NiMh takes a little bit longer. 1-2 years are usual. But fail is more spectacular… more acid.

NiMh Eneloop cells last for 5-10 years without spreading acid over the Bl7000… but they will also fail. The voltage of these cells is a little bit higher and the are better sealed. They stay cooler…

[lausvi]

To add into the BL7000 batteries; I just replaced the cells in my remote. The first set of NiMh AAs I bought were closer to 50mm in length and I couldn’t make it fit (battery cover couldn’t be closed anymore). My previous cells were closer to 48mm and that was still doable.

I bought new cells and this time I used 4/5AA length NiMh cells (43mm length). Naturally smaller cell means less capacity but these are still 1200 mAh which is more than the original NiCds that my remote had (700mAh).

This was much easier fit! Wide strip of capton tape at the ends in attempt to prevent any future leakage from reaching the board.

I also wanted to share this link I found: a very polished site about all sorts of BL7000 repairs: https://leicht.io/beolink/7000/articles

[Author]

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