[CharlieWednesday]

I’ve noticed these Beolab 3500s can come up pretty cheap sometimes on eBay. I don’t however know if I can connect it to my Beocenter 8500.

The BL3500 user manual found online only explain show to connect it via the Master Link socket found on later B&O hifi equipment and TVs, but my BC8500 uses the 8 pin DIN Power Link connection.

The strange thing is, the PDF manual for the BL3500 clearly shows that there is an 8 pin DIN on the back of it too, but the manual makes no mention of it?

So, will it work? Would I perhaps need one of those ML/MCL Converters (Type 1652) to make it work? The purpose of that converter is a bit of a mystery to me to be honest but they also can come quite cheap on eBay sometimes!

[Madskp]

First of there is both a MKI and an MKII version of the Beolab 3500

Both versions have Masterlink.

Beolab MKI (serial numbers are lower than 19343452) has an 8 pin connector on the back marked MCL and can be used with the Master Control Link system

Beolab MKII (serial number 19343452 and up) has an 8 pin connector often refered to as powerlink on the back, but according to the servicemanaul for BL3500 MKII only intended for use with Beolink Wireless 1 (W1). I have done several tests in another thread that also suggest that this connction can only be used for this purpose, and not function as a normal powerlink speaker.

With your Beocenter 8500 I see two options:

1. Get a Beolink converter type 1611 which connects to the AUX port on the Beocenter 8500 and converts it to masterlink. This way you can connect both MKI and MKII Beolab 3500, and you have also the option to add other zones with Beolink Active, Passive or the Beolab 2000.
2. Use the Speaker 2 connection on the Beocenter 8500 to make a MCL network to a Beolab 3500 MKI, it will not work for a MKII. To do this you have to use the thick 7 wire MCL cable, speaker connectors with 3 legs, and have an 8 PIN DIN connector mounted in the BL3500 end. You might be able to get some MCL cable with connectors mounted secondhand, but else it will be a DIY job. Since the MCL connection is from a speaker output it is depending on the volume from the Beocenter 8500. The BL3500 has some compensation for this, but it is not optimal.

I would suggest you go with option 1 as this is the more modern way of doing things, and you have more options to add more zones in the future.

As for the ML/MCL converters. Those will not work for this setup. They are for connecting a Beomaster/Beocenter/Beosound with Masterlink to a MCL installation, so a way to add a more moderne main room system without replacing existing link rooms.

Hope this helps, and fell free to ask more if in doubt

[CharlieWednesday]

Very helpful, thank you. As it happens I think I do already have the cable needed for option 2 – I used to have a Beomaster 3000 with the MCL30 multiroom box/transceiver, and that cable has 3 pin speaker cables on one end, bare cables on the other end but I could easily connect an 8 pin DIN. I have sold the Beomaster 3000 now, but I still have the MCL30 – I was selling it on eBay.

When I got the Beocenter 8500 (recently, as an upgrade from my Beocenter 8000) I did plug the MCL30 into it in case it worked, but it didn’t. The speakers work through it, and the physical mute button on the transceiver works, but the IR transceiver won’t recognise commands from my Beolink 1000 or Beo4 remotes – it was built for the much earlier Terminal 3000 remote, so this isn’t surprising I suppose.

But you’ve got me thinking – I’ve took the MCL30 off sale on eBay (no bids anyway!) in case I decide to repurpose that cable by adding an 8 pin DIN to the other end, and go with your option 2.

I’d prefer your option 1 but I cannot find a Beolink converter type 1611 on sale, but at least I’ve got options now, thanks.

PS will anything other than a 1611 converter work, such as the BeoLink Converter NL/ML? Thwre are so many of these converters available from B&O over the years, it can be a bit confusing to know which does what.

[Madskp]

Hi again

The NL/ML converter is for converting between Masterlink and the newer netlink products, so won’t work in your case.

A Beolink converter type 1614 might work, I can test that tomorrow and report back

[Madskp]

I have now tested with my Beocenter 9300 and a Beolab 3500.

With the Beolink Converter 1611 everything works as it should.

With the Beolink Converter 1614 nothing works. The 1614 converter does not supply power to the Masterlink network.

Therefore a 1611 converter is needed if it is the Masterlink Route you take.

If you choose to go the MCL way a cable pinout is available here (These pages has not been reestablished at Beoworld, so linking to the internet Archive) https://web.archive.org/web/20220624064632/https://www.beoworld.ouronlineserver.com/beotech/wiring1.htm

Not that the whirring is shown for a wall plate so you have to be sure to use the right PIN numbers on the Din plug.

The pink wire is power, and is not used in the Beolab 3500, so you do not have to solder it to the plug, but keep it isolated so it does not short circuit.

 

 

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks so much for your help on this – having thought about it overnight I think I’ll wait until I see a Beolink Converter 1611 come up for sale – as you say that is the more modern (and more flexible) way of achieving things, and also ensures I can use a BL3500 Mark II rather than needing a Mark I.

I don’t actually want to put the 3500 in another room, I just want to put it on the other side of quite a large room, and if I can get a BL3500 in decent condition it would look pretty cool mounted on the wall.

[Madskp]

Sound like a good idea.

When you place the BL3500 in the same room you can choose to program it to option 4 where it will only react to Link commands. That way you can choose wheeter or not you want the BL3500 to play

[CharlieWednesday]

You don’t happen to know if the Beolink converter 1614 is a suitable alternative to the 1611? It certainly looks exactly the same!

[Madskp]

On CharlieWednesday said

You don’t happen to know if the Beolink converter 1614 is a suitable alternative to the 1611? It certainly looks exactly the same!

The 1614 cant supply the voltage to drive the masterlink network, so for this usecase it wont work. The 1611 will do this.

 

[CharlieWednesday]

My goodness these converters are confusing. Thanks – I’ll keep looking for a 1611 then.

[CharlieWednesday]

I kept looking for a Beolink Converter 1611 until one finally came up on eBay at a reasonable price, so I bought it. I have not bought a Beolab 3500 yet as I wanted to make sure I could get the converter first, but the BL3500 comes up on eBay often so I don’t expect I’ll have any difficulty getting one.

I’ve just realised though in your earlier post however @Madskp, it says that I would connect the 1611 to my BC8500 using the Aux output, but I see that the 1611 has both Aux and Powerlink sockets. Can I connect it via Powerlink rather that Aux?

Also, do you happen to know if the display on the BL3500’s display can display the functions of my BC8500, when connected this way?

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’ve just realised though in your earlier post however @Madskp, it says that I would connect the 1611 to my BC8500 using the Aux output, but I see that the 1611 has both Aux and Powerlink sockets. Can I connect it via Powerlink rather that Aux?

The connection should be made between the AUX socket on the BC8500 and the AAL socket on the Beolink Converter 1611. The Powerlink connection is only used if you have the speakers for the BC8500 connected to a TV and want to be able to adjust the volume with the buttons on the BC8500.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Also, do you happen to know if the display on the BL3500’s display can display the functions of my BC8500, when connected this way?

The Beolab 3500 display will show the name of the source and the station/track number for example “Radio 4” or “CD 2”

The clock on the BL3500 can be setup so the the source and number momentarely and the go back to the clock, or allways showing the source and number when something is playing.

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah that’s good to know, thanks. I do already use the Aux socket on my BC8500 (for my WIIM Pro streamer), but I see that Sounds Heavenly do a splitter cable, so I guess I can make it work with one of those.

Thanks for your help – again!

[Millemissen]

You could use the A.Tape 2 socket for the WiiM instead.

MM

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks, yes I had thought of that, but ultimately I do plan to use the A.Tape2 input for another purpose (although I haven’t done so yet), but the splitter I mentioned above should do the trick.

I’ve also realised that while I look for a BL3500, I can test the Beolink 1611 by connecting my Beovision 8 TV to my Beocenter 8500. According to a manual I found online here I can connect the TV to the converter via Masterlink, then converter to Beocenter via Audio Aux Link. I’m not sure what it will actually do when connected, but it should hopefully allow me to at least test that the converter I got quite cheap on eBay actually works before I splash out on a Beolab 3500!

[Guy]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’m not sure what it will actually do when connected,

Put simply, it will allow you to play the TV audio through the BC8500, and vice versa.

This is dependent on ‘Option Settings’. If TV and BC are in V.OPT 1 and A.OPT 1 respectively, each will normally play sound though their own speakers and be controlled directly by the Beo4. In this setup, if you press ‘AV’ before selecting a source, if will play through the ‘other device’ – i.e TV will play audio through BC8500 speakers (if connected) and BC8500 will play through TV.

Other option settings will change the behaviour, but it’s probably best to come back and ask once you have it setup!

 

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah thanks, I’ll try that. If I can get sound from the TV playing through the BC8500 or vice-versa, then at least I know the Beolink Converter 1611 I bought works, before I invest in the Beolab 3500 that I ultimately bought it for.

I don’t intend for the TV and BC8500 to remain connected – there’s no benefit to that for my setup. The built in speakers on the BV8 TV are plenty good enough for my purposes.

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Ah thanks, I’ll try that. If I can get sound from the TV playing through the BC8500 or vice-versa, then at least I know the Beolink Converter 1611 I bought works, before I invest in the Beolab 3500 that I ultimately bought it for. I don’t intend for the TV and BC8500 to remain connected – there’s no benefit to that for my setup. The built in speakers on the BV8 TV are plenty good enough for my purposes.

If the TV is not in the same room as the BC8500 it can be used as a link room speaker.

If they are in the same room you can use the TV speakers, and any powerlink speakers connected to that as speakers for the BC8500

Just to let you know some of the options you have

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I do already use the Aux socket on my BC8500 (for my WIIM Pro streamer), but I see that Sounds Heavenly do a splitter cable, so I guess I can make it work with one of those.

I am not 100% sure if the use of a splitter in this configuration can cause issues. I do not have a splitter myself to test with. However one thing I notice in Steve description of the splitter cable is that if it is used with two mains connected sources it can introduce hum to the sound, so just be aware of that

[CharlieWednesday]

I’d never really considered including my BV8 TV in the setup, but now that I see what options are available, I may rethink that, thanks.

As for the hum possibility, I was hoping that since the WIIM Pro gets its power from USB, and is therefore not running on mains voltage, I wouldn’t get the hum. I guess I’ll find out once I get it all connected! The Aux Splitter that Steve sells is only £20 so it’s worth a try.

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