[beojeff]

There could be a different solution for you. I’ve been considering the project of using a spare 3500 above a jacuzzi in my bedroom. For my project, I’ve considered using an NL/ML Converter with a ML Power Box — that’s the very tiny box that you must connect to the NL/ML Converter when there is no ML Audio or Video Master present. This would give you the AUX input of the NL/ML Converter as well as any sources such as Deezer, TuneIn, etc. that you get if you have any NL product such as just an inexpensive Beoplay M3. This would give you a great deal of flexibility of source buttons to which you could map the sources. Now that I have an extra NL/ML Converter and ML Power Box I have everything that I would need for the project.

[Guy]

Congratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!

matador wrote:

The 3500 works the same way in option 5 or 6.

Have you tried L.OPT 4 and then set your Beo4 as a LINK only remote, so you don’t have to select LINK each time?

EDIT: Also have you tired L.OPT 1 and/or L.OPT 2? In some of the older MCL kit you had to set L.OPT 1 or 2 as well as L.OPT 5 or 6 to make it work correctly.

[Millemissen]

It is a long time ago since I played with these kind of setups and I don’t have the opportunity to try it out right now.

Using the A/V function/button before you hit a video button however, means that you adress an audio source.

Again from memory……..why should a ‘pure’ audio command not work?
After all the converters were meant to be used from an audio system to a videosystem (MCL respectively ML) and also the opposite way.

I you have an old MCL-based audiomaster (BM 4500/6500 etc), you could try out the 1611 with that to see if it works with audio commands from the 3500.

P.S. The 3500 should be in Option 6, which is factory setting.

MM

[Millemissen]

beojeff wrote:

There could be a different solution for you. I’ve been considering the project of using a spare 3500 above a jacuzzi in my bedroom. For my project, I’ve considered using an NL/ML Converter with a ML Power Box — that’s the very tiny box that you must connect to the NL/ML Converter when there is no ML Audio or Video Master present. This would give you the AUX input of the NL/ML Converter as well as any sources such as Deezer, TuneIn, etc. that you get if you have any NL product such as just an inexpensive Beoplay M3. This would give you a great deal of flexibility of source buttons to which you could map the sources. Now that I have an extra NL/ML Converter and ML Power Box I have everything that I would need for the project.

That is a sophisticated setup – but probably a bit over the top of what Matador has aimed at.
Looking forward to hear about it, when you get it finished.

MM

[matador]

beojeff wrote:

There could be a different solution for you.

Interesting. I too would like to hear how it turns. But for now, its a little bit over… me.
I’m not an NL or ever ML guy and right now I just want to go for the cheaper: a converter, the Lab 3500 and an airport base.

But Id like to know more about the ML power box: would it work as an audiometer by itself or does it need the NL/ML converter ?

Thanks

[matador]

Guy wrote:

Congratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!

Thank you Guy,

I know you’re quite a fan of all those mysterious (or not so) black boxes, but honestly, a Beolink converter is not the piece of B&O I was expecting to be congratulated for! 🙂

It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.

[matador]

Millemissen wrote:

why should a ‘pure’ audio command not work?

I think that too, but after reading old post from BW2, I must have confuse things.
The guy speaking of “any source” was RaMaBo and in fact, he wrote “any Video source like DTV, V.MEM, TV, etc…”

Now what I still dont understand is why I need to press AV before.

Millemissen wrote:

Using the A/V function/button before you hit a video button however, means that you adress an audio source.

Ok I get that, I use this command on a BV6 to start just the sound without the picture.
But why don’t I hear the sound when pressing TV only? Shouldn’t it bring picture (on no screen) AND sound?

Millemissen wrote:

That is a sophisticated setup – but probably a bit over the top of what Matador has aimed at.

Indeed!

PS: No MCL Master. A BC2300?

[matador]

Oh, and another thing, sorry: when I press the mute button it goes straight to RADIO, not the last source, which was TV. Any chance to change that?

Thanks.

[Guy]

matador wrote:

It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.

Sorry for confusion. I was wondering whether you could first set the BL3500 to L.OPT 4. In that configuration commands have to be proceeded by LINK. My thought was that this could potentially avoid the need for the pressing of AV. Worth a try.

Of course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.

[matador]

Guy wrote:

Of course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.

Yes that could be interesting to have the Beolab 3500 with it’s own remote in a same room that use another “general” Beoremote. Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?

[Guy]

And I agree that L.OPT 6 should be the setting for a BL3500 in a system with a normal audiomaster. (I think OPTs 1 and 2 only referred to the older LCS9000).

I have only ever heard of a 1611 ‘audiomaster’ aux input being activated by a VIDEO source selection – any of which should work.

With regard to the pressing of AV. I used this button when I had a mixture of (connected) video and audio sources in the same room, each with their own speakers. I could press AV TV to hear the TV though my BC9500, or press AV RADIO to hear the RADIO through my TV. So in effect you are having to press AV TV to hear your ‘video source’ through your ‘audio’ system.

I think that with a normal audiomaster (with connected videomaster), connected by ML to a link room BL3500 would not require you to press AV (even to hear a video source) – it’s a funny requirement of the 1611 workaround.

[Guy]

matador wrote:

Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?

Not sure! I read somewhere that when Beo4 is in permanent LINK mode, you have to then press LINK to send a ‘normal’ command. I will test this now …

[Guy]

Guy wrote:

matador wrote:
Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?

Not sure! I read somewhere that when Beo4 is in permanent LINK mode, you have to then press LINK to send a ‘normal’ command. I will test this now …

Tested, and the answer is …. NO it doesn’t work! In permanent LINK mode the only thing I could control (even pressing LINK first) was my lights (and that is via Lightmanager Pro).

EDIT: But all the traditional commands will work for the product that it in OPT 4.

[matador]

Ok, Thank you Guy for all these details. The AV thing makes sense now.

It’s really sad there isn’t any “easy” way to use the Beolab 3500 MK2 (seems that MCL models can be trigger with 5V) as a simple standalone speaker.
I am quite impressed with the sound; of course not as much bass than Beolab 4000 but I expected a more thin sound.

[Guy]

It is worth experimenting with connecting your (MCL-era) BC2300 to the 1611, this just needs a 7 pin DIN from AUX to the 1611 (no PL connection is required).

If it’s in the same room, put the BC2300 in A.OPT 0 first to avoid double IR commands, and then see how the BL3500 behaves with various Option Settings.

The 1611 auto-configures to a video- or audio-master when power is applied, so maybe you can spoof the 1611 into reconfiguring and then disconnect your BC2300 and connect the other source? However, you are taking a risk by making/breaking connections whilst power is applied.

[matador]

Guy wrote:

The 1611 auto-configures to a video- or audio-master when power is applied

Then I won’t! Now I’ve a converter (and I still need another one) I won’t lose it!

But I’ll still try how it works when the autoconfig detects and Audiomaster like the 2300.
That’s an interesting lead.

That makes me also wonder: I’ve read the Powerlink socket just carry the trigger signal for use in certain configurations. What if I send him a 5v when powering it on? Wouldn’t make it think it is connected in an audio config?

[Guy]

matador wrote:

I’ve read the Powerlink socket just carry the trigger signal for use in certain configurations. What if I send him a 5v when powering it on? Wouldn’t make it think it is connected in an audio config?

My understanding is that the 1611’s PL connection is for volume data. If you have a BC2300 in A.OPT 0 connected via a 1611 converter to a TV in V.OPT 2 (i.e only the TV has speakers connected), you need the PL connection so the BC2300’s keypad volume control will operate. (Remembering that the BC2300’s AUX output is a fixed line level).

[matador]

Too bad… Thanks Guy.

[matador]

Still investigating…

OneRemote sells a Radio Multi Receiver that connects to a Masterlink installation through a 1611 converter. But depending on the cable used to connect it to the converter, it seems it appears as audio source or video source. Cables are VSNUT and ASNUT. Cables being all the same price I wonder if it’s a marketing trick or if there simply something in the socket, like a resistor between the two datalink pins, that fools the converter.

Another lead: connecting it to an Audio Unit like Guy suggested, let him autoconfig and power it off. Then connect it to the Beolab 3500 but without letting him autoconfig, which would be something like powering the converter first and the Beolab after…

Will try this tomorrow and report.

[Guy]

matador wrote:

Cables are VSNUT and ASNUT. Cables being all the same price I wonder if it’s a marketing trick or if there simply something in the socket, like a resistor between the two datalink pins, that fools the converter.

I’ve often wondered about those two cables! I have a OneRemote internet radio and considered connecting it to my BV10-32 via a 1611 converter. Their website suggests that an ASNUT cable is required, but I really don’t understand why I can’t connect it straight to a 1611’s AUX socket.

If I can find my 1611, an ML cable and an AUX cable I may experiment in the coming days!

[Author]

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