[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi All, and Hello World,

I recently purchased a Beogram 8000 and I have completed an electrical restoration and inspection. I am now working through the mechanical/electrical adjustments. I have been able to adjust everything within range with the exception of the height of the turntable platter itself. I cannot adjust it for a 2mm gap.

For some additional context, I purchased this turntable from a collector and at some point, someone opened the deck and fiddled around a bit.

The issue is that when I adjust the suspension springs the conical travel lock posts collide with the deck long before the platter achieves an even 2mm lip all around (the screws on the travel locks are completely wound in also). At best I can get about 1mm and at the point, the travel locks are pressing into the underside of the deck such that the suspension is no longer doing anything useful.

I have inspected the whole deck and I cannot see anything that would allow me to fix this issue. Thus I can only conclude (without further advice) that either this is a manufacturing tolerance issue or I am missing a small shim on the hub spindle (this would raise the platter somewhat relative to the suspended sub-chassi.

Based on a review of the parts catalog I don’t believe any parts are missing but I note that it is not the clearest parts catalog I have ever seen so I may be missing a shim or something similar something.

This appears to be an earlier deck as I had to replace a worn tacho disc as part of the restoration.

Can anyone shed some light on this as I am a bit stumped?

Cheers,

Ganb

[auric]

Hello Ganb:

The tip of the spindle bearing sits on a circular piece of plastic like a puck at the very bottom of the bearing. Usually what happens is that people ship the turntable with the platter installed rather than separating it. During shipping the platter slams against the bearing pushing the tip of the bearing into the plastic. The plastic puck is hard but brittle, slightly soft kind of like a plastic cutting board material.

Does the motor drive pan freely rotate or does it rub the bottom of the sub chassis when it rotates? If the the motor spins freely its probably fine.

You can try to replace it. Beoparts carries parts for the 8000. There is a hole on the underside of the brass bearing that you can use to push the plastic puck out.

 

Derek

 

[Dillen]

When you fit the black subplatter to the hub, make sure to match the
three “protrusions” on it with the three small indentations on the hub.
If you don’t the subplatter will ride too high.

And you have the platter upside up – right? Your photo shows its downside.

Martin

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi Martin,

 

I’m definitely locking the three tabs in, though in this case the extra height would actually help ?.

 

Regarding the platter it is shown upside down on the off chance there’s a spacer missing or something.

 

Cheers,

Gnab

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi Derek,

 

Thanks for your reply, I believe I understand what you mean. The motor does spin freely however, and it doesn’t look like there’s evidence of a destroyed piece of plastic in the bottom of the spindle shaft (see attached images). It appears there is a small indent, however.

Or perhaps the plastic part is missing entirely? Do you have a link to the replacement part to give me an idea of the shape as I cannot find it under Beogram 8000 on the Beoparts site?

 

Cheers,

Gnab

[auric]

Hi Gnab:

You can see it at the bottom of the bearing in your picture and it looks intact. There is supposed to be a slight dimple because the end of the shaft of the rotor is pointed and rotates on top of it.

Excessive force possibly deform the plastic?

It’s one of the few parts that I can think of that can account for the height difference.

The other thing to check is that the hooks that suspend the inner chassis from the leaf springs are in fact original and not deformed. Check all three for equal length.

If you can’t find it on Beoparts, maybe Martin can help here.

Derek

[auric]

Gnab:

It’s hard to tell but from the picture but are the transport locks screws fully released?

The screws should be loosened.

The metal discs should be slid into their open position and then once release the screws should be tightened all the way down so they are not protruding above the discs.

Derek

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi Derek,

 

The plastic piece could be deformed I suppose but it is hard to tell without some kind of yardstick. Regarding the spring hanger wires, whilst if they were stretched or bent this would change how much I needed to wind on the leaf springs, the limiting factor is the collision of the suspended sub-chassis with the underside of the top casing. So the hangers shouldn’t stop me from adjusting for the 2mm gap I believe, only change how many turns I need to put on the springs. Does this sound right?

 

The only other thought I had was that maybe this is a franken-machine and that slightly incompatible parts from multiple machines have been used?

 

Attached are images of the entire platter assembly just in case anything jumps out as odd to you. There are no other parts.

 

Cheers,

gnab

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi Derek,

I was experimenting with different positions of the screws to see if it made a difference to the issue. Normally they are wound all the way in and the issue still persists.

 

It appears to be the plastic body of the travel lock posts that collides with the underside of the deck in this case, not the screw heads.

 

Cheers,

Gnab

[auric]

Gnab:

I’m assuming the bottom cover of the turntable is installed when you are doing this so that the inner chassis is actually allowed to suspend?

There are no parts between the platter and the sub platter. The ribs of the platter rests on top of the sub platter.

Derek

[YannChris]

Wrong post, sorry.

 

 

 

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi All,

 

I’ve cracked the case. It turns out that the combination service manual is riddled with errors. Many of the measurements given apply only to the Beogram 8002, not the 8000.

 

I have got a copy of the service manual for the Beogram 8000 specifically and it says only to adjust the platter till flush with the top. This I can do. It also incorrectly gives a sensor arm height of 19.5mm when it should be 23mm for the Beogram 8000.

 

Please see the attached screen capture of the correct service manual.

 

Cheers,

Gnab

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi All,

 

Thanks for all the help and suggestions also, I appreciate it!

 

Cheers,

Gnab

[auric]

Gnab:

Which part of the case did you crack?

The 8002 uses a completely different platter, different stylus and tone arm than the 8000. 8002 platter has no rubber ribs.

Derek

[nesfulo_gnab]

Hi Derek,

What I realized was that you are not supposed to adjust a Beogram 8000 for a 2mm platter height. The manual I had claimed to cover the Beogram 8000 but many of the specified measurements were for the Beogram 8002.

 

A review of the dedicated Beogram 8000 manual and the beolover website revealed this to me.

 

Hence I could adjust the platter height to 2mm because you’re not meant to.

 

Cheers,

Gnab

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